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Ti Case mod


FxrAndy

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Do not try this if you are not 110% happy with you power tools or what you are doing with them!

This could be a long post but i will make it as short as possible

My daughter wanted a panerai, in Titainium, so i said she can build it, i will source the parts, so i eventualy found all the parts i needed (thanks guys) and checked they fitted before she did a very simple build.

Well it turned out the case i had was an auto case and the crown stem and tube would not line up, I looked far many ways around the problemm and eventualy settled for modding the case, i think it woiuld have been easyer to thin the movement down in the end, I looked for a friendly face with a lathe who could work Ti but non could be found so it was back on the shelf untill i could find away.

All i had to do was remove .37 of a mm by my mesurements from the dial resess to make it all line up enought to work.

I knew it was possible to use my mini pillar drill as a mill but how to evenly mill out the bottom of the rehaute evenly, today i found a sollution using:-

Proxxon pillar drill

broken glass press disk

dremill cutting disks

coundrum gringing wheel and a lot of time

I started by glueing the glass press disk back together as it fitted inside the crystal recess of the Ti case and thus enabeled me to rotate the case on top of it, i then fixed this to the x-y table of the drill. I started with a worn down cutting disk as it would fit in with the long stud fixing the whole contraption down but later found that i could use a smaller stud and use a full size disk.

DSCF0072.jpg

set up again with the full size disk

DSCF0074.jpg

This was proving to slow with the cutting disk so i set up again with the grinding stone and this made a bit faster progress, the cutting disks were used later on to polish the ground area down and anothe small job that needed doing

DSCF0076.jpg

By setting up the hight of the tool carefully i was able to rotate the case with my fingers and slowly remove the metal that i needed, Ti has a funny way of working you can sand it by hand quite easliy but no matter what i tried, machining this took an age!

Eventualy i had removed enough and could do the next little job the case needed, cutting recesses for the movement holder tabs as they were too low for the 6497, this took a while but no where near as long as the first part, you can just see them in this photo above the smaller cutout in the top left hand corner.

DSCF0079.jpg

The other nice little job i managwed with this set up was evenly brushing a tired looking case back.

DSCF0078.jpg

All in all it came out well, yes the rehate is a bit shallow but it was a chalenge to overcome

Now all Emily has to do is assemble a brown dialed, Titainium, seconds @3, blued hands with a polished crown guard and very tight lever (i had to make the screws for this as well as i could not find any others)

I hope to show the the finished artical in the next couple of days

ONE QUESTION? Was there ever a lefty TI pam with a brown sausage dial?

Do not try this if you are not 110% happy with you power tools or what you are doing with them!

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WOW! :shock: Incredible work! Congrats!

But... why not just using a Ti case originally made for a 6497 like this one?

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WOW! :shock: Incredible work! Congrats!

But... why not just using a Ti case originally made for a 6497 like this one?

Just a note for anyone thinking of using a JacksonTse case (Ti or SS). You may run into problems aligning the stem or securing the movement to the case (with the plates), especially if you're using a DSN dial. Many people have noted that the dials JTse uses are thinner than your average rep dial, so if you use a standard dial it will push the movement just a bit too high in the case.

I'm sure there are some work arounds for this, just haven't heard of any yet :)

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Because that is not the one i had, love a chalenge and all that, you can see the finshed watch here

So after some study of those pictures that is the case that i had and it does not fit with a standard pam dial, other people heading this way beware!!!!!!!!

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Because that is not the one i had, love a chalenge and all that, you can see the finshed watch here

That is a completely satisfying answer on its own. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Still, thanks FxrAndy and Drulee for your following replies and beware.

I found that knowing the size(s) of the movement a case was made for, and of the movement I am going to put into it, helps a lot.

That is why I compiled a summary of some movements' sizes. I am posting it here again in case it may be helpful to anyone.

Movements.zip

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The movement size was not the problem but the thickness of the dial, i plann3ed at first to use a sandwitch but then went for a sausage as i thought it would be thiner, non was a solution as the case was made for a dial no thicker than .75mm. not the 1mm plus of our pams

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