aragdog Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 I know this has been covered before but where is the best White/stainless Daytona available? I know the problems with this watch but I have a friend that is driving me crazy for this rep. Any suggestions or some extra strength excedrin appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 You may need to research some of the links that may have changed since the original post, but see You Can Build a Nearly Perfect 116520 Daytona Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gioarmani Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 All the running seconds at 6 Daytonas from all the dealers on here are going to all have the exact same watch. Problematic, at best, due to the incorrectly modified movements. 3-6 months is the realistic average lifespan on this piece. And yes; all Daytonas with seconds at 6 have the exact same self-destructing movement. Even the "new" & supposedly improved movements are still missing 11 jewels. Avoid, unless you want a watch you only wear once every few months & are willing to throw it away sooner than you'd like. __________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Many, but not all, self-destruct. Mine (2nd row from front) are nearly 5 & 4 years old, respectively, & still going strong (though neither is a daily beater) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 Just make sure you get a signed and notarized letter from your friend that he won't hold it against you when it breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlaletom Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 if your friend isn't that much of a WIS you could still go with the pre 2000 rolex daytona zenith powered. Those rep are sec at 9, and you should expect longer lif time probability, for those graphite treatment are not mandatory. But the subdial spacing are wrong, wich would only be noticed buy somone who actually have good knowledge of daytona. But i actualy wonder if el primero reps are still available nowadays ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 gioarmani, I've read all of the horror stories about the "seconds at 6" movement and wonder why somebody with a little mechanical aptitude couldn't fix it. I've never actually worked on watch innards but I wonder how difficult it would be (for a machinist) to ream out the offending holes and epoxy (or however they are supposed to be attached) jewels into the offending spots... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 I say follow Freddy's advice. If Ubi chimes in I would take his word as gold also. For me, I gave up trying to replicate perfection and settled for buying a gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 if your friend isn't that much of a WIS you could still go with the pre 2000 rolex daytona zenith powered. Those rep are sec at 9, and you should expect longer lif time probability, for those graphite treatment are not mandatory. But the subdial spacing are wrong, wich would only be noticed buy somone who actually have good knowledge of daytona. But i actualy wonder if el primero reps are still available nowadays ? i just picked up a nice "vintage" 6263 - black bezel/dial with silver subdial seconds@9 - a7750...looks and runs great...(flawed yes, but nonetheless) - been pondering selling it, as i need the funds...just not sure i want to part with it...wears great and looks even better!... R - a quick, pix of my 6263... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Mike Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 gioarmani, I've read all of the horror stories about the "seconds at 6" movement and wonder why somebody with a little mechanical aptitude couldn't fix it. I've never actually worked on watch innards but I wonder how difficult it would be (for a machinist) to ream out the offending holes and epoxy (or however they are supposed to be attached) jewels into the offending spots... Because, while jewels increase longevity and decrease wear in the movement, they also increase drag due to the viscosity of the oil/lubricant. The additional drag on top of the tremendous amount of drag already being created by the 11 additional gears is too much for the movement to overcome and be reliable. Realistically the module they put on the movement could be reduced to about 6 gears, making it very reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) Mike, thanks for the explanation. I had always assumed that the jewel bearings also reduced friction as well... Edited September 1, 2009 by jmb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Mike Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) You are correct that oil does reduce friction. It also reduces wear. Without putting you to sleep with a engineering lesson, oil does reduce friction, but also introduces a degree of drag (drag is friction between a solid against air/fluid). In the case of the heavily modified A7750 movement, the drag created by additional jewels (specifically the oil in the jewel), will induce a greater degree of resistance then the current degree of friction between the components. Make sense? This is why watch makers will use different viscosity of oils to help regulate a watch. Different viscosities induce different degrees of drag. In theory if a watch marker were to put is drop of oil the exact size of the contact surface area, you would reduce friction without additional drag. Beer me......My head hurts. Edited September 1, 2009 by Bike Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 mmmm, beer... Oh, I understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblueprince Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I've got this - Serviced and graphited movement, gen crown and tube, new pushers (rep ones are crap). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I've got this - Serviced and graphited movement, gen crown and tube, new pushers (rep ones are crap). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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