HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 The crown tube on my vintage daytona is not threading properly. Ill sit there for 10 minutes trying to screw it back in after setting it. Is there any way to fix this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 It requires a bit of watch work. Generally, a new tube if the crown is ok...or a new crown and tube if you want to switch to a different crown that matches the tube. You'll need some specialized tools (either a tube press, taps, etc). OH...it's fairly common. I've had to replace them on my gens. The tubes are cheap...only a few bucks, and the labour isn't much. Any watch person should be able to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 It requires a bit of watch work. Generally, a new tube if the crown is ok...or a new crown and tube if you want to switch to a different crown that matches the tube. You'll need some specialized tools (either a tube press, taps, etc). OH...it's fairly common. I've had to replace them on my gens. The tubes are cheap...only a few bucks, and the labour isn't much. Any watch person should be able to do it. Any idea where i can get both the tube and the crown. I know how to replace the crown but the tube is a different story. im sure i could do it but it would take some research. I got the watch from josh do you think he would sell me the parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 There have been some tutorials on RWG on replacing the tube. It will take a bit of work to search for them. If it's for a 6263, do you have the A7750 version or the Seagull manual wind? Not that it makes a difference really...but the crown you can likely source from the Bay. Many upgrade to a gen crown and aftermarket tube. The crown might be about $50, and the tube <$10. OR...just stick with the existing crown and get an aftermarket tube for it. I've only done a gen crown/tube replacement for Omegas, and those part numbers are easy to find. Possibly send a PM to Freddy333 or Ubiquitous and ask them if they happen to know the parts to order? I know Josh won't have the case tubes...not something they sell. The crown possibly...but likely your crown is fine...and just the tube threads stripped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 There have been some tutorials on RWG on replacing the tube. It will take a bit of work to search for them. If it's for a 6263, do you have the A7750 version or the Seagull manual wind? Not that it makes a difference really...but the crown you can likely source from the Bay. Many upgrade to a gen crown and aftermarket tube. The crown might be about $50, and the tube <$10. OR...just stick with the existing crown and get an aftermarket tube for it. I've only done a gen crown/tube replacement for Omegas, and those part numbers are easy to find. Possibly send a PM to Freddy333 or Ubiquitous and ask them if they happen to know the parts to order? I know Josh won't have the case tubes...not something they sell. The crown possibly...but likely your crown is fine...and just the tube threads stripped. well i think it ends here because i tried to get the case back off and i couldn't. I made the mistake of buying the cheap chinese version of the case back remover tool. It doesn't work at all. I have a cousin that owns a jewelry store but i would feel weird bringing a fake in to ask if they could remove the case back. I have a few options. A) Buy a much better case back remover for the price of a new watch. Buy a new watch. C) take it to my cousin and buy the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Try a rubber glove balled up...or a ball of duct tape. That might work. Those are common caseback tools. I have a cheap set of caseback tools for rolexes, but for the 29.5mm die (the one for most models talked about here), I have the Bergeon tool. The die is about $18...not much. You can stick a pencil or chopstick in to use as arms if you wanted instead of buying the full kit. I would talk with your cousin. They might find it to be an interesting exercise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Try a rubber glove balled up...or a ball of duct tape. That might work. Those are common caseback tools. I have a cheap set of caseback tools for rolexes, but for the 29.5mm die (the one for most models talked about here), I have the Bergeon tool. The die is about $18...not much. You can stick a pencil or chopstick in to use as arms if you wanted instead of buying the full kit. I would talk with your cousin. They might find it to be an interesting exercise. Wow i cannot believe the rubber glove worked. Thanks alot for your help and im going to try to figure out what is stripped after class today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Any idea what size the crown tube is? This site has tubes but im not sure what part to measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Not wanting to be a thread hi-jacker, but, Toad, is there a "burgeon type" chuck/die made for the larger backs like the DSSD yet? I can't get mine off with the Sticky-Ball and I need to regulate it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Mike Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Any idea what size the crown tube is? This site has tubes but im not sure what part to measure. Measure the crown Dia. DD, DJ have a 6mm crown. Triple lock like on Subs & Daytonas have 7mm. I don't know about the vintage pieces. If you buy the Gen crown and tubes you never have to worry about mixing and matching some thing together again. To me that is worth the cost of the Gen. parts alone. I know I can always go get a Gen crown and replace it in minutes and not worry about it fitting or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Hewlio - Get the New Style Tube to Fit 6 mm Rolex. These fit the current gen 7mm Triplock crowns (Rolex part 25-703), which you can usually source on ebay for $100-$250, depending on condition & seller. (Triplock crown prices are, once again, heading skyward. A couple of years ago, I was able to buy a dozen used (mint condition) Triplocks for $100. Now, that same set would probably cost me nearly 10 times that. Like I always say with Rolex parts - if you think it is too expensive now, just wait. ) Depending on the source of your rep, the gen tube may screw right into the existing case threads (after you have removed the existing rep tube, assuming you do not break it off in the case or damage the case threading during removal). You can use a 3-sided hobby file to remove the existing rep tube. After decasing the movement, insert the end of the file into the tube so it lodges inside & then, with the teeth of the file grabbing the inside walls of the tube, simply unscrew the tube. Be sure to clean out the hole before installing the new gen tube. If the threads are damaged or the gen tube does not fit, you may need to tap the hole with the larger of the 2 taps in Ofrei's Generic tapping set (part FB-3C-969 - Ofrei used to sell each tap separately, but I no longer see them listed that way) Before installing the new tube, put a small amount of GC crystal cement or Loctite 'Blue' (semi-permanent) on the tube's threads (the threads that go into the case, not the threads the crown screws onto) to help seal out dust/moisture (part FB-2202 or similar) If you are real careful (& lucky), you can use the same 3-sided file you used to remove the old tube to install the new 1. But you may damage either the inner walls of the tube or the splines that line that opening. To avoid damaging the tube, or if you plan to install more Rolex tubes in the future, invest in a case tube tool, which fits into the inner splines in the tube (part 3C-964) Finally, do not overtighten the tube or you WILL break it off. Just finger snug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Well in the process of trying to get the tube out, it snapped and half of it is still screwed in. Either this has just become a parts watch or im going to have to take the movement out and drill that out and retap it. And i cant get the crown back in for some reason. Favorite watch.......down the toilet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Been there, done that. Can you get the rat tail file in there and keep trying to unscrew whats left of the case tube out? A small ease-out also might work. If you can do that, then just clean out the hole with the tap- 3.0mm x .35. If you were to drill the hole, you'd need to use a 2.65mm drill bit and then retap the hole w/ the 3.0mm x .35 tap. I've broke my share of case tubes, but I've always been able to back out the broken end w/ the file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Not wanting to be a thread hi-jacker, but, Toad, is there a "burgeon type" chuck/die made for the larger backs like the DSSD yet? I can't get mine off with the Sticky-Ball and I need to regulate it... There is...somebody was selling these recently. I can't for the life of me remember what to search for for the thread. It's not in the standard kits. Give Offshore a PM. I think he'll be selling these soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 ok so i took the movement out and i drilled the hole into what was left of the crown tube and the size of the bit was just under the size of the case hole. So i managed to get the broken part out without damaging the threading i think. So now im putting the movement back in but i still cant get the stem back in. Why would this be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 sounds like you boogered up the keyless works- which movement is it, BTW. You can try turning the crown/stem whille gently pushing it in, but you may be due for a trip to the watchmaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 sounds like you boogered up the keyless works- which movement is it, BTW. You can try turning the crown/stem whille gently pushing it in, but you may be due for a trip to the watchmaker. Its josh's automatic one just like the one in my sig pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Well its game over unfortunately. Trying to get the stem back in i snapped part of it off, the very tip. the square part is still there. Correct me of im wrong but i believe that little piece does not come with new crowns? I have no idea why it wouldent go back in. Is it because when i pushed the release button it was in the second position? I took the stem out twice today and the first time the stem was just unscrewed not pulled out at all. then it went back in fine. But time to get a new vintage daytona when i get some more funds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 If somebody can say whether a a21j stem would fit I have an extra I could send you. Sometimes on the a21j (I'm too cheap to buy an ETA!) you have to depress the "latch" while pressing in the stem and slightly turning it back and forth all at the same time to get it to go in! It sometimes seems that you had to have gotten up on the proper side of the bed, parted your hair on the correct side, AND were lucky enough for the planets to be in the proper alignment - not really but it seems like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Hewlio - Your game (& movement) is far from over. You need a new stem (which must be ordered for the particular movement in your watch - $10-$20), possibly a new case tube & a watchmaker to install them both. From your description, I think Alli is right - you probably dislodged the clutch lever or an associated part (This is the keyless works from another movement, but it shows the parts in question) You either pressed the release pin too far/hard or had the movement in the time-setting position when you removed the stem. In either case, the hands & dial will need to be removed & the keyless works reset. Not a big job for a watchmaker, but if you lack the tools & skills, you are likely to turn a minor issue into a disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 freddy, I thought I had read to have the stem in the "setting" position before removing, I guess I've been lucky, well, except for once! Which position SHOULD it be in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 This is an A7750, but the keyless works are very similar to many rep watch movements. The plate identified by the green text is the part that moves when you press the stem release. If pushed too hard/far, it (or the clutch lever) can become dislodged, which then makes it difficult to get the stem to 'lock' into the movement or to switch between winding & time-setting modes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 freddy, I thought I had read to have the stem in the "setting" position before removing, I guess I've been lucky, well, except for once! Which position SHOULD it be in? Alot depends on the particular movement, but I think the confusion stemmed from something Ziggy wrote that recommended pulling the stem out to the time-setting position before removing it (Ziggy feel free to chime in here if I am mistaken). I have often found that that leads to the problem here. With most movements, I pull the stem out to the 1st click (winding position) & then remove it. With ETAs, as long as you use the red screwdriver (120), you should not have a problem with the keyless works getting mis-aligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 ya i defiantly took the stem out when it was in the setting position. But im not sure if i want to take it apart all over again just to find that its broken anyways. Because when i broke the stem i was pushing has hard as i could. so i wouldn't be surprised if i really damaged something inside. I think if i dident damage the insides the stem may still work. If i can get that to work we are back to only one problem. So ill look at it again and see what i can do and if i feel like taking the dial and hand off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEWLIO Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 ran into a small snag. i have the movement out and all the hand off but how do i get the dial off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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