Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

Replacement DSSD insert correct 10


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The one I took out was rather soft, the outside seems to be ceramic but I don't know about the other half of the insert..

the replacement seems to be very hard, and if the sand paper is too coarse it will not shave off any material.. it just gets shinny, whatever it is ..it's quite hard.

So about 100 grit wet (metal) sand paper? How much did you end up shaving off?

Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest techlogik

http://www.perfect-hour.com/rlacc01001-deepsea-ceramic-bezel-correct-p-8166.html

lani, what I meants was the width of the insert. Is that wider than the bezel itself. Or does it fit flush side/side. Understood the sanding height issue you are working on.

Thanks...and I still think I need to see this once it is finished in person...I will pay the $4.95 for priority shipping to me. :drinks:

Photos might help people envision the back like it helped me.

15.jpg

16.jpg

17.jpg

18.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just picked up some 120 grit.. that should be fine.. I got a coarser grit to try out.. but the coarser grit causes the insert to just slide .. not much friction ergo less shaved off the bottom per stoke.

the width of the insert is not wider.. it does not fit flush with the bezel either.. so it needs to be centered so the edge has just a fraction of a mm gap.. as the genuine appears close up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it still needs some work like a micron or 2 more sanding.. but today is the BCS Championship.. so I glued it in for now..

not bad.. the bezel as a whole looks better.. I'll finish it up later this week

zzzzzinsert015.jpg

zzzzzinsert011.jpg

AC/Lani

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow...that looks really good lani. I am impressed.

This pretty much deals with the most obvious tell of the watch.

I looks much better in person btw.. but yes, I am quite happy with it for not only the 10 but the quality of the insert.. I'm not done with the sanding .. like I say a few microns more.. the ceramic (if it is in fact ceramic)is super hard..i kinda wish I kept my vibrating sander.. it would be perfect..but then again my thumb would be raw :lol:

worth the price for the fix...imo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New guy here, hello all. I've been following this issue for a while, pretty interesting. My question is, is anyone going to sell the DSSD with the new bezel already on it?

First, Welcome to the forum :thumbsupsmileyanim..

Cigs this is not a "new" insert, it is probably from another parts vendor whose insert was not used. due to the fact that it needs some modification to fit properly. so IMO the Ultimate DSSD is the best out at this time.. this insert can be bought separately to fix the issue of the misaligned 10 on the Ultimate insert.. again to repeat.. the insert is not for any "future" DSSD project, as I do not think the maker would want to shave the height on the this insert to make it work... there will probably be another version..

dealers can source all kinds of different parts and "franken" their own version .. call it V6 or whatever.. this is a solution to the one obvious flaw on the DSSD.

AC/Lani

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question as I am a diver and have used the gen version - If this is the Ultimate version why does the bezel rotate on a omni-directional basis thereby eliminating the sole use of the bezel? I would think this would be a dead give away if someone who inspected the watch noticed this. Does anyone know if a uni directional version is made?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question as I am a diver and have used the gen version - If this is the Ultimate version why does the bezel rotate on a omni-directional basis thereby eliminating the sole use of the bezel? I would think this would be a dead give away if someone who inspected the watch noticed this. Does anyone know if a uni directional version is made?

the genuine list as a Unidirectional..one way.. as the divers watches are

here are some issues about the genuine bezel form a Rolex forum >Here

Unidirectional~defined

Often the bezel (top ring on the case), serves to record additional data, and can often move in both directions to provide a number of functions. A unidirectional bezel only turns one way to prevent any danger of false man oeuvre. Especially important when being used to measure diving times as even if the bezel is knocked and moved it will simply indicate the diver has less air or decompression time rather than more

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how this compares to to the Eurotimez one, in quality/accuracy and in fitting for the ultimate?

Josh is actually my preferred dealer but ETZ owe me money... so I was thinking about getting a v5 dssd bracelet and a couple inserts from ETZ for my ultimate.

You should ..imo "cash out".. that would be a good choice for a credit..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should ..imo "cash out".. that would be a good choice for a credit..

Yep, that's the plan. Not sure about the bracelet, because the v5 has a different finish on some of the glidelock clasp parts. But have just remembered that the V5 uses dodgily curved or bent standard sized springbars - not the rolex sized ones as the Ultimate does. Drilling them would be beyond me.

Thanks for the input, but has anyone reading acheived such a mod?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest techlogik

lani,

Did you list exactly how you removed the old insert? I got my DSSD coming back from Rex all repaired. I know have the first Franked 3135 Clone/ETA movement! Took $80 in ETA parts to fix the stupid clone that was all hosed from the factory. I got my new insert also that looks pretty good. I want to swap it out. Some guidance on tools/techniques would be great!

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tech,... I just took the pearl off using my thumb nail.. then used a tooth pic to take off the insert by sticking it in the pearl hole and applying a little upward pressure... it is 2 sided tape adhesive that holds in in place with the bezel.. I used rubber contact cement to secure the replacement bezel.. it bonds well but I can remove it with minimal stress if I want to.. it's the "Elmers rubber cement".. it drys to a rubbery material.. I would not use any strong epoxy that runs.. you risk the chance of it seeping into the bezel and freezing the bezel so it will not turn..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest techlogik

Tech,... I just took the pearl off using my thumb nail.. then used a tooth pic to take off the insert by sticking it in the pearl hole and applying a little upward pressure... it is 2 sided tape adhesive that holds in in place with the bezel.. I used rubber contact cement to secure the replacement bezel.. it bonds well but I can remove it with minimal stress if I want to.. it's the "Elmers rubber cement".. it drys to a rubbery material.. I would not use any strong epoxy that runs.. you risk the chance of it seeping into the bezel and freezing the bezel so it will not turn..

:thumbsupsmileyanim:

Alrighty. I have GS Hypo Model cement, probably same stuff, it comes off easily. Will give it a go and hopefully have it done by the weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lani, thanks for the great find and tips. I'd like to do this with my V3 but there's a slight problem. To keep from losing my pearl and in order to position it in place, I super-glued it onto the bezel and there's quite a lot of super glue bonded beneath the pearl. The bezel turns fine but I'm wondering if you have any ideas for me in regards to removing my now bonded insert?

Thanks!

P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest techlogik

Lani, thanks for the great find and tips. I'd like to do this with my V3 but there's a slight problem. To keep from losing my pearl and in order to position it in place, I super-glued it onto the bezel and there's quite a lot of super glue bonded beneath the pearl. The bezel turns fine but I'm wondering if you have any ideas for me in regards to removing my now bonded insert?

Thanks!

P

Did you try the hair dryer trick? Some have heated up the insert that will loosen the adhesive, then remove it carefully by prying under the edge.

Also, another option, get the actual bezel off, then push from underneath to get the insert off.

If you don't care about the old bezel, just rip it off by prying...under it while protecting the stainless bezel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got the ceramic insert. It needs a slight polish as the finish is a little dull right out of the bag. I will try to mod it later this week. I assume you don't have to remove the bezel to do any of this - just extract the insert? I'm going to use blow dryer to heat up the ceramic insert / glue and hopefully that will work with minimal prying. I'm worried about bending the edge of the bezel as I try to remove the insert. Any suggestions before I start this project?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update on my efforts to swap out the Ultimate insert with the new Joshua corrected insert. I first removed the pearl on the Ultimate insert by heating it up which loosened it to where I could use my finger nail to pull it off. I then used the pointed end of a watch band tool inserted in the pearl hole to lift up the insert. I also heated up the insert with a hair dryer. (It is held in place quite well with 2 sided tape along the outer most bottom edge of insert. I then used a razor blade around the inner edge (near crystal) to pry up the insert. It took a lot of effort. Unfortunately the insert cracked at the spot for the pearl but that didn't bother me as I'm replacing it.

I then removed the pearl on the replacement insert as I liked the one on the original Ultimate one better - it appears more authentic while the one on the Josh insert seems too white and looks fake to me. I popped it out from the back. You just stick a toothpick or pointy end of watch band tool into the hole underneath the pearl and push. It takes effort - it was definitely well glued in. I recommend applying a little acetone by the hole to dissolve the glue. But be careful and use it sparingly to avoid it seeping through to the other side and damaging the paint. I used a Q-tip and just swiped the back with acetone (also used it to clean the bezel before gluing in the new insert.) FYI - the paint underneath the pearl may also come up but it doesn't matter as you can't see it when you place back the pearl. I tried to avoid this but it still happened.

Now the tedious part - sanding down the insert. I started with the black wet/dry sandpaper I had at the house. Started with 400 but that did not seem to do much so I switched to 320 and finally to 220. After around a half hour of working on the insert I got it to fit flush with the bezel edge (it is initially higher). I started to get impatient so I decided to put the insert aside and look for a better type of sand paper tomorrow to speed up the process. I also noticed a little rocking in the bezel even before I started. There is a little difference between the replacement insert and the Ultimate insert. The Ultimate insert is thin and has no outer ridge on the underside. The replacement insert has an outer ridge and that's what needs to be sanded down for the right fit. I plan to use crazy glue for the pearl and Wurth (Germany) rubber cement to secure the insert to the bezel. I figure if its good enough for my Porsche it should work fine on the insert. I'll post an update once I get the insert to fit right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up