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Spring Bars


vlydog

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Greetings all,

Just attached an oyster bracelet to my new sub; which has lug holes. The head of the spring bar is only visible through one of the four lug holes. Is this a matter of taking a little material out of each lug hole?

or

is it a spring bar issue?

Thanks for any advice, vlydog

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Most reps (I'm assuming it's a rep) have holes that are to small so they will need to be drilled to size. If it's gen then maybe take a #55 drill bit in a pin-vise and clean out the offending hole as I suppose it's possible they might have some gunk or burrs inside hanging things up...

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I don't know if they would or not but you could check there and also at Sears. If, on the other hand, you need to actually drill them to size then that is a job best left to a mill or drill-press.

Good luck!

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THat is strange. Is this a new rep or a "previously enjoyed" one? I'm thinking that the PT Sea Dweller is one of the few that come with proper sized holes out of the box, but I could be wrong. If new, then, we all know about the ridiculously high level of QC by illicit CN manufacturing operations! :nea: That would explain why 2 out of 4 were a bit "off", shall we say... :rofl:

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.

I was having a similar problem on my 1680, all i did to solve it was champher the inside of the holes so that the spring bar could find it better and fully extend, By the way i have just cot some 1.3mm drill bits so if any one need lug holes drilling i would like to try them out, my are all drilled 1.5mm and that is a little larger but looks fine for a vintage look.

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Remove the bracelet, then install all the spring bars, if the heads are visible, your problem is with the bracelet end links, if the head is not visible, the problem is with the case.

It could be either or, this will identify the actual problem...

Thank you kind sir!

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"Strange that one spring bar head is visible."

Some lug holes are not drilled straight across the lugs but are drilled at an angle from under the opposite lug...this will cause the springbar pins to bind in the hole. You can stick a drill bit etc in the hole from the outside to tell if the holes are drilled straight or at an angle.

After drilling one side, see if the drill bit lines up with the hole on the opposite lug, sometimes you can drill through both lugs in one shot.

If the holes are drilled at an angle, you might have to drill the lug holes slightly oversize or polish the springbar pins down a little with Cratex etc.

Be careful because oversize lug holes look bad and can make the lugs too thin around the holes.

Also be careful not to taper the holes on the outside of the lugs. When you see a watch with tapered lug holes or a round edge case (DJ etc) with flat spots around the lug holes, it was usually caused by too much polishing around the holes.

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Be careful because oversize lug holes look bad and can make the lugs too thin around the holes.

Could not agree more with this statement.

As for your situation, vly- How much tension is left in the spring bar? If you're using gen 2mm springbars, those should hold fairly sprung for many, many R+I's and are what I would recommend for use. Aftermarket springbars are usually quite weak and give way after compressing 3 or 4 times in the lugs during fitting. They fail pretty easily.

If your springbars are retaining their tension after numerous fittings, then the procedure as outlined by Zigmeister is correct to ascertain the problem. Hopefully it's as easy as cleaning out the lug hole...

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@ Ubi. Gen spring bars are what I am using along with fresh and minty Gen 580 end-links. I an anxious to try the lug cleaning test but alas, I broke my spring bar tip whilst I was attaching the bracelet last evening.

@ JoJo. The photos are forth coming. I just need a little time after work to snap a few and write a proper post.

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