freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Before I provide details, I would like to get opinions from some of our senior vintage Rolex members (you know who you are) on this dial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member X Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 My extremely limited knowledge thinks they are supposed to have white a background? If so, the off white background and aged lume dots look suitably vintage, gen or not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 freddy, can you get a better pic of the t swiss t? I was wondering if this was a texas dial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 More pics Compare with my current DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Very nice, and would fool most folks out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Overall looks pretty good considering the notch at 3:00... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Overall looks pretty good considering the notch at 3:00... Remind me to check the obvious first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 In this case, I think the notch is relevant. However, shortly after I thought the notch debate had been settled (at least over at VRF), someone I know very well, whose knowledge & experience in vintage Rolex is nearly unquestionable, showed me irrefutable proof (in the form of original Rolex paperwork) that leaves the question very much open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 If the notch didn't give it away, the coronet did... Otherwise, the fonts look very good. It's a very good dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Thanks, Ubi & All. That is pretty much what I thought, too. Also, the subdial-to-minute-track spacing is a bit off & the subdials are not deep enough below the surface of the dial, but that is very difficult to see, especially without a loupe or when the dial is installed. Definitely not perfect, but I think this is the 1st aftermarket Newman dial that makes it into the comfort zone. I am going to try to transplant the DW coronet onto this dial tonight. If everything lines up......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 I really don't know much about dial specifics, but the primary color of that dial is absolutely gorgeous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 I really don't know much about dial specifics, but the primary color of that dial is absolutely gorgeous Yes, that is 1 of the 1st things that caught my eye. Update - I removed the coronets from both dials. The DW coronet is (properly) affixed with 2 small positioning pins that go through the dial, but the new dial's coronet is simply cemented into place. Because I lack the tools to drill such minute holes in the new dial to fit the DW coronet's pins, I opted for Plan B - removing the pins on the coronet & cementing the coronet onto the new dial in the same manner as the original. Unfortunately, the sticking point (no pun intended) will be to find a way to apply the cement & position the coronet (very difficult since it does not slide, it just flicks around when you nudge it!!!!!!!!) without getting cement all over the dial/coronet. My thinking is to use GC crystal cement to affix the coronet since it dries mostly clear & will give me a few seconds to reposition the coronet before it starts to set. Trouble is that I am already picturing the dial covered with (shiny) strands of GC cement all over it & the coronet. So I am definitely open to recommendations for cement/affixing methods & procedures. In the meantime, here is the DW coronet sitting (loosely) in position on the new dial. If I can figure out how to cement it here, I may have something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Yes, that is 1 of the 1st things that caught my eye. Update - I removed the coronets from both dials. The DW coronet is (properly) affixed with 2 small positioning pins that go through the dial, but the new dial's coronet is simply cemented into place. Because I lack the tools to drill such minute holes in the new dial to fit the DW coronet's pins, I opted for Plan B - removing the pins on the coronet & cementing the coronet onto the new dial in the same manner as the original. Unfortunately, the sticking point (no pun intended) will be to find a way to apply the cement & position the coronet (very difficult since it does not slide, it just flicks around when you nudge it!!!!!!!!) without getting cement all over the dial/coronet. My thinking is to use GC crystal cement to affix the coronet since it dries mostly clear & will give me a few seconds to reposition the coronet before it starts to set. Trouble is that I am already picturing the dial covered with strands of GC cement all over it & the coronet. So, I am definitely open to recommendations for cement/affixing methods & procedures. In the meantime, here is the DW coronet sitting (loosely) in position on the new dial. If I can figure out how to cement it here, I may have something Would I be right in thinking that the color of the dial shifts through the grey/silver spectrum depending on the lightsources? For cementing the coronet into place, had you considered putting a rodico blob on the end of a brush/pen/skewer and using that to lower the coronet into place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Another Update - After testing/tinkering around with various cements & application techniques (including TeeJay's), I was comfortable enough to try placing the coronet with #5 tweezers, which, once I had a dab of cement in place, worked out fine. I ended up using slow-drying epoxy since it would give me an hour to position the coronet (amazingly, I got it spot-on on my 1st try ) & should keep the coronet in place better than whatever the factory used originally (the coronet just about fell off the dial when I slid a piece of paper between it & the dial face). Anyway, here is the DW coronet in its final resting place on the new dial In 24 hours, I will reassemble & post new pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Well done, though I can't see the pic for whatever reason. Looking forward to seeing it under some plastic and surrounded by a steel case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Well done, though I can't see the pic for whatever reason. Same here. There is a problem at photobucket's end. They should have it cleared up soon & then the pic will display. In the meantime, I can tell you that as long as the epoxy holds, it will look good. I was able to position the coronet exactly where I wanted it. The only telltale signs of the coronectomy are the tiny, slightly shiny spots left on the dial, above the current coronet, where the original coronet was pressed onto the face. But they are only apparent, close-up & under direct light. Once I get everything cased, you will never see it. Looking forward to seeing it under some plastic and surrounded by a steel case Me too. I have been waiting for this moment (when I can install a believable Newman dial into my 6239) for a long time. My 6239 was great before, but this dial takes it into a new zone. In fact, JoJo's comment about the dial looking like 1 of the infamous Texas dials (excepting the odd coronet, exactly what I thought when I saw it) was high praise indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted May 17, 2010 Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Very nice, freddy. That coronet makes it look like costume jewlery but I know you'll have that taken care of in short order. Big upgrade over the current dial for sure!! EDIT: Sounds like you've already made quick work of swapping out the coronet! So at this point I drop the proverbial... ...on you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Comparison of DW vs new dial (with DW coronet) Here is a gen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 So Freddy...... Where did you get this one? What is the story on the texas dials? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Fantastic result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoJo35 Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 It's nice freddy, but wouldn't you agree that the t swiss t still gives it away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Yes, which is why it is now red (I will post an updated pic tomorrow after reassembly). Still a problem, but less so since it will be partially covered by the case & no longer draws as much attention to itself The T SWISS T is still a bit large (these aftermarket dials always have at least 1 wart), but it looks smaller in red since it is no longer contrasting with the minute markers. And partially hidden below the flange of the case, I think it will be even less noticeable. But I will know better after I recase it tomorrow evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 18, 2010 Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hmmm... While the T SWISS T is incorrect, it is definitely not consistent with a Texas print. It's much too large... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hmmm... While the T SWISS T is incorrect, it is definitely not consistent with a Texas print. It's much too large... Yes. It looks alot like a Texas dial, except for the Swiss signature & other issues I mentioned previously. (For those who are unfamiliar with the Texas dials, these were produced, as best as anyone can tell, in the 90s somewhere in Texas by an obviously knowledgeable Rolex collector. To date, the Texas dials continue to confound collectors & Rolex themselves due to their accuracy. Although my dial was not made in Texas, it is the closest Asian-made Daytona dial I have ever seen & likely would have fooled me (except for the Swiss marking) had it been seen in the wild.) And to answer the $64,000 question, I found it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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