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Here's an odd one...


JoJo35

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...Anyone ever have to sand the inside of a crystal???

Tonight I got home from work, and for for the first time in a long time, I had nothing planned. So, like any other normal watch nut here, I thought of something :rolleyes: .

I've been putting this off for a long time, but nonetheless it is something that has been bothering me for quite a while. L's Cartier dialed OP date has had a service replacement crystal installed forever, and every time I look at the watch it bothers the hell out of me. So, tonight I had some time and looked through my parts bin. First I found a couple of flat 117's, and while checking the last 117 I saw that it was a correct vintage dome.

So, for the past couple of hours I've been sanding the scratches out of the old plastic. After working down to 1000 grit, I took a long look at the crystal with the loupe. I guess this crystal has been around for a while, because I found a scratch on the inside! Quick work with the 1000 wet/dry took care of it, and right now it's just about ready for 1200 (then 1500, then 2000). After that, I'll resort to some 3M compound and it will look as good as new.

Soon L's watch will look as good and correct as it should, and it won't drive me nuts the next time I see it on her wrist :D;)

PS: I'll post up some pics after I get it installed

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Beautiful!

Thanks Ubi!

Beautiful, yes, but the crystal drove me nuts!

Hey JoJo, what method did you use to sand the inside of the crystal, it seems such a small space to be able to sand around the curves evenly with just your finger? If you don't mind me asking?

Sure brendo, not a problem answering your question. Sanding the crystal was relatively easy. It didn't take long before I figured out why this crystal was relegated to the parts box. I soon remembered that the crystal was in pretty bad shape, and that I was able to find another dome 117 for my last watch restoration. Not wanting to spend another $70 or more for an old crystal (if in fact I could actually find another one), I decided to sand this one into submission.

I spent most of last night sanding, and (I timed it) three hours today after I got home from work. This is time consuming when done right, but it is kinda fun to see the end result.

Last year when I bought one of these crystals from a gen dealer, I was disappointed with what I got in the mail. The crystal I had received had been evidently buffed with a dremel. The end result was an obviously uneven surface that desperately needed some TLC. Realizing the rarity of the crystal (isn't it weird how dome T-12's and C-117's are rarer that rocking horse $hit, but "original" superdome NOS 19's and 39's are all over the place?) I decided not to return the dome 117 to the seller, and sanded it the same way I did this one.

It's pretty easy actually. I used wet/dry 600, 1000, 1200, and 1500. I only started off with the 600 for really deep scratches, but for the most part I was able to start with 1000. Begin by cutting a sheet into a six inch by six inch square, and fold it so you have a corner that will fit under your index finger. Try to sand in straight lines (ok, tiny straight lines!). The reason is the same reason you should never use swirls when you polish your car. It's something about the way light reflects.... Swirl marks are bad!

As in any metal or paint finish work, use all grades of sand paper up to 1500. I found that wetting the paper was not necessary for such tiny work, since the paper didn't get loaded up, and if it did, just flick it with your fingertip or fold a new corner.

After all the sanding was done, I dug some more car stuff out of the garage and put it to good use. I figured, why the hell should I spend money on a tiny tube of polywatch when I have a garage full of auto compounds? There are many products that would probably do the same thing, but I chose 3M's "finesse it". This stuff is advertised to remove 1500 grit scratches, and I found that it worked great.

So, that's it! It's an easy and fun little hobby project that has great results (hmm.... why isn't any of this stuff ever on the gen forums?)

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Thanks Ubi!

Beautiful, yes, but the crystal drove me nuts!

Sure brendo, not a problem answering your question. Sanding the crystal was relatively easy. It didn't take long before I figured out why this crystal was relegated to the parts box. I soon remembered that the crystal was in pretty bad shape, and that I was able to find another dome 117 for my last watch restoration. Not wanting to spend another $70 or more for an old crystal (if in fact I could actually find another one), I decided to sand this one into submission.

I spent most of last night sanding, and (I timed it) three hours today after I got home from work. This is time consuming when done right, but it is kinda fun to see the end result.

Last year when I bought one of these crystals from a gen dealer, I was disappointed with what I got in the mail. The crystal I had received had been evidently buffed with a dremel. The end result was an obviously uneven surface that desperately needed some TLC. Realizing the rarity of the crystal (isn't it weird how dome T-12's and C-117's are rarer that rocking horse $hit, but "original" superdome NOS 19's and 39's are all over the place?) I decided not to return the dome 117 to the seller, and sanded it the same way I did this one.

It's pretty easy actually. I used wet/dry 600, 1000, 1200, and 1500. I only started off with the 600 for really deep scratches, but for the most part I was able to start with 1000. Begin by cutting a sheet into a six inch by six inch square, and fold it so you have a corner that will fit under your index finger. Try to sand in straight lines (ok, tiny straight lines!). The reason is the same reason you should never use swirls when you polish your car. It's something about the way light reflects.... Swirl marks are bad!

As in any metal or paint finish work, use all grades of sand paper up to 1500. I found that wetting the paper was not necessary for such tiny work, since the paper didn't get loaded up, and if it did, just flick it with your fingertip or fold a new corner.

After all the sanding was done, I dug some more car stuff out of the garage and put it to good use. I figured, why the hell should I spend money on a tiny tube of polywatch when I have a garage full of auto compounds? There are many products that would probably do the same thing, but I chose 3M's "finesse it". This stuff is advertised to remove 1500 grit scratches, and I found that it worked great.

So, that's it! It's an easy and fun little hobby project that has great results (hmm.... why isn't any of this stuff ever on the gen forums?)

Awesome! Thanks for the details JoJo! And the crystal came out great, very nice job :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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That's a very interesting observation about the availability of "genuine" T19 and T39s. I've got some sources that appear to have figured out how that's working. Suffice it to say, they are not gens.

That being said, I bought a T16 and T18 from Philip over on VRF about 8 years ago and neither one have the high dome I really want for my 6536. What else that's more obscure might I look at as a replacement? :g:

Oh, and ... NICE results with that vintage! :notworthy:

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I bought a T16 and T18 from Philip over on VRF about 8 years ago and neither one have the high dome I really want for my 6536. What else that's more obscure might I look at as a replacement? :g:

Oh, and ... NICE results with that vintage! :notworthy:

Thanks Nanuq!

PS: I have both items you are looking for, both bought from our mutual friend :drinks:

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Hmmmmmm, and hmmmmmm! Got any nice domey side shots for me to lose sleep over?

Let's see, the T16 fits the 5510/6538 if I recall, so I used the T18 on my 6536. Here's a profile shot, but wouldn't it look nice with a gargantuan dome on there?

vintage_lugs.jpg

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AAAAAAIIIIIIIIIIEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!! *klunk* <---Nanuq just died.

Sounds like it's time for the gloves to come off and Nanuq to get serious.

PM coming your way.

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For those wishing to polish crystals, a wonderfully useful product is Micromesh - http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/ - apparently originally made for polishing perspex aircraft windows. It is cloth backed so lasts forever and runs from 1500 grit to 12000. I use it for hand finishing guitars sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer. Taken up to 12000 then finished with Meguiars Swirl Remover, the depth of shine is unbelievable. I use the same technique to remove scratches from acrylic crystals.

The link incidentally is only because they have quite a good description of the product but it is fairly widely available if you Google "micro mesh abrasives"

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