Looking at maybe a vintage GMT....

[Prsist]

Can someone give me a quick rundown? Looking at trusty's site and see one with a riveted bracelet. How do you adjust? What are the model number progression of the GMT?

[jmb]

The rep riveted bands I have have screws that are sorta disguised as rivets in the usual links.

[Nanuq]

GMTs went 6542 (no CGs) then 1675, then 16750 "transitional" and then I lose interest. Any of these will have the domed plexiglas and thin case.

[Rolexaddict]

GMTs went 6542 (no CGs) then 1675, then 16750 "transitional" and then I lose interest. Any of these will have the domed plexiglas and thin case.

same for me... and its the same for other Rolex like fat and shinny Sub, SD, Daytona etc.

about gmt plexi I would say "cheminee" rather than dome, dome have rounded tops like on the 1665 SD, the gmt plexi 25-116 has a medium high flat top with angular edges

Prsist,

all vintage gmt sold by dealers are complete vrong, based on Sub 5513 case and bezel and the dial is vrong also. The only positive is that you get for a reasonnable price an excellent riveted bracelet, a 'no bad" movement -Swiss or Asian- with the 4th hand complication and a good hand set to start a project.

With this, you can buy a gmt case and a dial from Yukiwatch,

Or buy a 1655 Explorer, an aftermarket gmt complete bezel assembly from ewatchparts/whoolesaloutlet and a Yukiwatch dial

[Toadtorrent]

GMTs went 6542 (no CGs) then 1675, then 16750 "transitional" and then I lose interest. Any of these will have the domed plexiglas and thin case.

Nanuq, am I correct in understanding that a 16750 "transitional" would have the "new" hand stack that is currently used, or were there examples that still had the same older handstack as the 1675?

As well, would a 1655 case still be accurate for a 16750 "transitional"?

Thanks for any help.