Omega Proplof experts - help!

[blix]

I am by no means an expert when it comes to Proplofs... far from it, I really haven't got a clue what I should be looking for. I'd love some help from the experts, pretty please.

Very much appreciated!

[mastrmindalliance]

Looks like another awesome example of the V2. Great finish and looks like everything lines up from the pics.

Enjoy it!

[txcollector]

ask for pics showing the clasp

[blix]

Will do, TX. What should I specifically be looking for concerning the clasp?

@mastrmindalliance

Thanks, mate. Although I would like your input on the CG - on the last picture you can see a small blemish/ding on top of the CG (at the edge).

[txcollector]

  On 3/27/2011 at 6:02 PM, blix said:

Will do, TX. What should I specifically be looking for concerning the clasp?

to make sure they are sending a V2 clasp and not a V1

[blix]

v1 or v2?

[txcollector]

need to see the underside of the clasp.

[Stefanp67]

Nice amplitude on that movement . My own 2 "Swiss" 2836-2 were at 220 and 235 degrees.

[blix]

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does the amplitude specify in a watch movement?

[Pakz]

  On 4/1/2011 at 11:24 AM, blix said:

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does the amplitude specify in a watch movement?

It's the angle of variation around the "neutral" for the balance wheel... It's usually around 300°. I think (but may well be wrong) that the larger the amplitude, the more stable you get and therefore the less variability you'll have in timing.

[Stefanp67]

  On 4/1/2011 at 11:24 AM, blix said:

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does the amplitude specify in a watch movement?

The amplitude is how much the balance swings in degrees. A general rule of thumb is that with a full wind the amplitude should be at least 260-270 degrees up to around 320-330 degrees. A low amplitude could mean a bad mainspring, a dirty and/or dry movement with high friction, a faulty movement.

[blix]

Thanks guys, that's very helpful. So I guess I got lucky with the amplitude -- though, +19sec a day isn't that great. I guess a 'good' movement, or the chance that it is a decent/oiled/non-dirty movement, is more important.

[Mickey Padge]

I thought that reads +019 secs a day? Also, why would a dealer get a V2 watch and a V1 clasp, it would be more expensive and time consuming for them to do that, plus it would serve no purpose and benefit no one?

[txcollector]

  On 4/1/2011 at 11:20 PM, Mickey Padge said:

I thought that reads +019 secs a day? Also, why would a dealer get a V2 watch and a V1 clasp, it would be more expensive and time consuming for them to do that, plus it would serve no purpose and benefit no one?

it happened to me. The dealers have the watch heads and different straps around. They assemble it for you when you buy it. For some reason I got that combination.

[Mickey Padge]

I always request the dealer gets the new and latests stock direct from the factory, anything else is not acceptable

[txcollector]

but how would you know if they've done it?

[Mickey Padge]

  On 4/2/2011 at 2:46 PM, txcollector said:

but how would you know if they've done it?

I shop with select dealers that I trust, most the smaller dealers don't hold any stock in hand after all

[ATEspo]

A bit off topic, but I'm shopping for a PLO too.

Can the clasp off the rubber strap fit a mesh bracelet? If I went with an aftermarket mesh (since my wrist is tok small) can I re-use the clasp from the rubber (pictured above)?