Stefanp67

Sorry but no, i thought RG would work forever, if they do come online again i will save it.

LHOOQ's exclusive on his franken SM300 back in 2010 got me into the vintage SM300 and i also got a lot of help from him when putting it together. Still ticking 2 years later and keeping (almost) perfect time, here's my SM300: Edit1: Ahhh yes i relumed the hands to match the lume on the dial. Edit2: Crystal has also been polished once with polywatch (i wear it at a lot).

I am speechless, nothing on earth beats an Everest summit, if you make it you will be the coolest person ever on any existing rep forum in the known world . I know extra weight is bad but i would fall of my chair if i saw a photo of a small flag with the text "Reps for sale" on the top of Everest .

Btw is it even possible to get a rep into Switzerland?

Do you have e-cards in Switzerland? An e-card is a virtual cc you can create with a fixed amount of money and you can delete it after the purchase. It also does not matter if anyone steals the e-card number since the fixed amount can not be exceeded and the card would be empty anyway after the purchase.

No problems for me but i always have to pay VAT and customs fees when i receive a new rep.

I wonder if a forum trusted middleman would work or if it is to expensive.

Nice project, i will follow this thread with interest.

I have been waiting 3 weeks now for a parcel from the US. Last year it usually took 9-12 days to get something so what the hell has happened with usps?

My dream Speedy is also the CK2915 from 1957 but i got the second best to that one the Speedmaster 1957 Re-Issue:

Congrats. When i first saw the black SMP i knew i had to get one : and i finally did last year.

Nice watch, you can't get called out on that one . I am getting the inspiration to Franken my PO 45mm.

Hi, if the movement is Eta or Asian Eta clone (2824-2/2836-2) then the 270+ amplitude and the rest of the timings are good . I put a few of my dg2813 and dg4813 watches on the timing machine and got the following amplitudes at 52 degrees liftangle (i am not sure what the liftangle is on these so i ran with the default 52): DG2813: Around 290-300 degrees all of them DG4813: Around 205-215 degrees all of them So the DG4813 (28800bph) does have a lower amplitude than the DG2813 (21300bph) at least on my Rolex reps.

The amplitude very low at only 214 degrees but it could be because they never wound it and only shook it until it started to run. I would see if it is possible to get a new timing pic with the actual watch fully wound and see if you get at least 260-270 degrees amplitude (low amplitude = movement in need of service and will not last long).

The amplitude is how much the balance swings in degrees. A general rule of thumb is that with a full wind the amplitude should be at least 260-270 degrees up to around 320-330 degrees. A low amplitude could mean a bad mainspring, a dirty and/or dry movement with high friction, a faulty movement.

Nice amplitude on that movement . My own 2 "Swiss" 2836-2 were at 220 and 235 degrees.

I am looking for a 1164 and if i could find one for $500 i would buy it asap .

Well $350 for the 1120 ($700 for two 1120's) doesn't feel that cheap but i guess i got a good deal compared to that the base Eta 2892.A2 costs $230-$290 (incl Swedish VAT) at Ofrei and $350 (incl Swedish VAT) at Cousins today.

First 1120 came from a member at RG and second 1120 from Ebay. Keep an eye on the different forum trade areas (RG, RWG, RWI) and Ebay and sooner or later an 1120 will turn up. As i understand Omega takes the highest quality Eta 2892-2, Rodium plates it, replaces the autowinder module and rotor with their own module and rotor and finally cosc certifies it.

$80 and change nice deal - i payed $350 for my 1120.

The old movement is it an Asian clone 7750?

The complete handset should be OME-HDS1164-2598.80.00 on page http://www.ofrei.com/omega-watch-hands-caliber-1164.html.

Very impressive work and what a nice looking SMP Bond . If you could get hold of a gen case you would have a gen SMP Bond.

In the FAQ section on Omega's site they have a link where you can send in your serial and they will get back to you if it is a real Omega.

I have tried to pop the bezel of a couple of replicas and so far all i have managed is scratching them so i would really need a good tutorial on that.