automatico Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 I was looking at Ubi's 1665 (over and over!) and noticed a familiar sight in picture number 11...a looong scratch trailing away from the case screw cutout. I have seen a lot of similar scratches and for years I wondered what caused them. Turns out the answer is simple...the dial/movement/case screw whatever gets stuck and in an attempt to turn the movement around so it will drop out of the case, the tool slips and makes the mark. Sometimes it is the dial that gets stuck, sometimes it is the case screws in the groove in the case etc. I have had movements stuck in the case so many times since I first saw these scratches that I made a tool out of a pin spanner to fit into two of the holes on the outside of the movement plate so I can turn the movement without damage. How tight can they get stuck? Tight enough to break a dial foot off if the dial is in a bind (it happened to me), and I have a 1603 now that is stuck. Don't know if it is the dial or the case screws yet. Not long ago I was working on a 16233 with a malachite dial (tutone with a green dial?) and when they make these dials, a thin slice of malachite is cemented to a brass dial plate. When I tried to remove the movement, the dial was stuck solid in the case. I had to remove the bezel and crystal and push the dial/movement out from the front side after finally getting it to turn to where I needed it to be. After I removed the dial, I measured it and there was no clearance at all. I polished the case a little with Cratex and all is well. I know this is unimportant but if this ever happens to someone, at least you will know what's what. This can also happen on projects if the dial just barely fits into the dial seat or the case screws bind up in the groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 any picture examples? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 I know what you are talking about. Two ideas are: 1.) Applying heat to the 'case' while being careful to not transfer heat to the movement/dial. A soldering iron heating strategic points can make the case 'expand' just enough to release. 2.) Working 'in the air' upside down. Risky, and not very watchsmith like, but sometimes desperate measures... (This I have done). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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