Upgrade movement and crown questions (1016 project)

[Serafino]

UPGRADE MOVEMENTS

I've searched on this at the various forums and didn't find much. What are the options for getting a better grade of gen ETA movement?

I have a 160XX case on its way to me for a 1016 project and I'd like to get a nice, solid movement with a long future in front of it, but without paying the price of a gen Rolex movement.

I currently have a Hamilton from around 2000 that has a 2824 in it. I presume it's a bottom-grade Swiss ETA and I have to admit that I'm pretty happy with its performance. I'd just like to have the sense that I've put something in my 1016 that is a wee bit special. I'm not concerned with low-beat (although I wouldn't mind either...)

CROWNS

While I'm at it, if anyone can recommend a trustworthy vendor for a suitable crown I would be grateful. I was looking at 24-600-0s based on LH's projects, but they seem to be pretty pricey, and I noticed that there are crowns for the 160XX out there which are part no. 17b or 16u and not so expensive. Clearly there is much to learn about this, and I will do the reading, but in the meantime if there's a simple answer and source I'd be grateful--I'd love to get parts ordered ASAP so this project can get moving.

[OldCorvette]

The ETA 2824 was used in Tudor/Rolex watches and is a solid movement in any grade. Use the money you'd have spent on a new movement on a full service for your Hamilton transplant and run that baby down the road.

[alligoat]

If you have a 160xx case, you need a 2836. A 2824 will work in a 1600 case or a 16200 case.

I am very happy with my 1016 w/ a 2824 in a 1601 case. I like to think of it as an upgraded movement!

Crown on the old ones is either 600 or 602- when they throw out the 17 or 16 parts BS, it sounds like that guy jewelerstools- I don't think he really knows what he's talking about.

[Serafino]

OldCorvette--actually I didn't mean to imply I would take the movement from the Hamilton, I think I'll keep it in there for now (just meant to illustrate that I realize a basic gen ETA can perform quite nicely) Yes, a serviced movement to start things off is very appealing.

Alligoat--ah right. You also mentioned a slow-beat 2846 in LH's thread on 16000s. Yes it was that guy I was looking at. Incidentally I have been admiring your 'MKII' 5500. Was hoping to find one of those dials and emulate yours for a while but am now committed to the Franken path.

[alligoat]

You're right, Serafino, the 2846-2 would be a good movement for a 160xx case. Thanks for reminding me about the MKII 5500- I haven't wore that watch in a while. It's a shame Bill Yao doesn't sell those dials anymore, I sure like the way it turned out in that Silix 6694 case, and with an old swiss eta to boot! Lume on that dial and hands is great!

[Serafino]

Alli--AND you can take it on a trip to France without being even slightly nervous

Meanwhile--anyone know the stem height for a 3035? I haven't been able to dig that up (i.e. as luck would have it the Rannft site doesn't have it).

I guess another way to come at the question is: does a 2836 fit exactly as to stem height or is there a little fudging in one direction or another?

[Serafino]

So I've got my 16013 case, and it looks like I need a new tube in there? It actually looks a bit off-kilter, like the crown took a hit.

I gather that the OFrei and Clark replacements are both comparable to OEM?

[alligoat]

The Rolex 3035 and the eta 2836 or 2846 all line up very closely stemwise. You need a spacer ring in there when fitting either the 2836 or the 2846, since the movements are smaller than the 3035.

You can get the late model 6mm tube from Ofrei which is the equivalent to the 24-6020 tube. I just went thru ebay and finding 6mm crowns is tough- looks like you'll spend $50-70 for one.

[automatico]

I used a 2846 (17J) with a 2824 autowind assembly (to make it 25J) in a 1016 project with a 16220 case. The sweep second pinion needed to be shortened a little bit so the second hand would not sit too high above the M hand. The H and M hands were Ok with the H hand about the right distance above the dial.

I used a spacer from Stilty and everything fit fine and I cut a couple flat spots in the spacer so the case clamps would fit into the groove in the case.

I left the 5.3mm case tube in the case along with the original 6mm crown and used a GS PA 464-64C crystal with a bezel cut to fit. The lug holes were drilled out with a #55 bit and a 7836 folded oyster bracelet from Mary was fitted.

The bracelet worked fine but I put an older type clasp cap on it with the coronet at the leading edge (where the lift tab normally is) and I bent the center of the last link when I was flexing the bracelet back and forth trying to make it a little bit looser where the clasp cap snaps down between the clasp and first link.

It is fairly easy to put a dent in a center link of one of these bracelets, genuine or replica.