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PAM 111N all Asian MUTT build


marlin22

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Hi everyone,

With all this talk about how rep. watches are going to get scarcer and ETA parts going up in price and down in availability, I figured I'd try something a little different. Here's what can be done with Asian parts a little creativity, some tools and lots of time...

I am going on holiday at the end of the month and I wanted a watch that was not over the top, but yet stylish and elegant, the PAM 111 fits the bill perfectly.

This watch is completely 100% Asian from top to bottom, and is a combination of many different parts from different factories and even parts from older version movements, thus where the title of MUTT comes from.

So let me elaberate:

The case is an H-Fac. 111M case with an H-fac. modded CG. I modded the GG pin by shaving it down some and polishing it. I trill need to work on the inside corners a little mor to make them square, but it will do for now.

The Dial and hands are the Noob 111N super lumed version

The case back is Noob 111N

The movement is based on the Noob Platinum plated 6497-2 modded heavily using only Asian rep. parts, list of mods follow:

Asian upper shock system was filed to imitate the Incaboc Y system, once filed the brass came through, so after it was filed to the proper dimensions, I beveled the top the completed the look by plating the entire thing with nickle platting. It's not perfect but it is close enough, it took me 3 tries to get it this close.

Asian gear train was brushed and gold plated to mimic the ETA brushed gear train.

Asian crown and ratchet wheels came off of an old style 6497 movement that I had lying around from DSN, They didn't have the big step bevel the new Noob and H fac. wheels have. I polished the teeth to a high luster to mimic the ETA polished wheels. Again, not perfect but very close.

I completed the look of the movement by adding the longer micrometric screw from an old H fac. low beat movement.

The rest is the untouched Noob 6497-2 that came with the 111N

And VUALA here it is, all Asian mixed bread mutt PAM 111N

To the pictures....

mutt7.jpg

mutt8.jpg

mutt2.jpg

mutt3.jpg

mutt1.jpg

mutt5.jpg

mitt6.jpg

mutt4.jpg

mutt9.jpg

Thanks for looking....

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The movement is based on the Noob Platinum plated 6497-2 modded heavily using only Asian rep. parts, list of mods follow:

Asian upper shock system was filed to imitate the Incaboc Y system, once filed the brass came through, so after it was filed to the proper dimensions, I beveled the top the completed the look by plating the entire thing with nickle platting. It's not perfect but it is close enough, it took me 3 tries to get it this close.

Asian gear train was brushed and gold plated to mimic the ETA brushed gear train.

Very interesting build.

I have been looking into setting up for plating, gold, rhodium, etc and your comments above intrigue me.

Since my understanding of plating is very limited, I wonder if you would be willing to offer any insight to these questions:

1. If plating adds material to the object being plated, how did you manage to not add too much to the Incabloc setting so that it could still be installed in the balance cock, and that the jewel and spring still seated correctly?

2. If all the parts are immersed in a brine for the plating, how do you manage to avoid gold plating all the arbours and pinions while only gold plating the actual wheels? What about the actual gear teeth shapes, if gold is deposited on the wheel, it will build up the teeth and alter their shape, how is this addressed?

Any insight would be appreciated.

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The Zigmeister, Andy is correct, the plating process is so thin that it does not impede the functionality of the piece at all. The thickness of the platting is determined by how long you immerse the item and allow the the gold or other type of platting solution to deposit their molecules on to the surface of the object you are plating. It is a great deal of trial and error, voltage adjustment and just overall tinkering around until you get it just right. there are charts online that explain the voltages and immersion times, but they are different for each solution. To avoid the arbors and such I use a spot plating technique, I use this on the gear train, so as just to plate what needs to be plated and everything else remains unplated.

BTW, I just noticed on the close up picture that one of the legs on the spring looks like it is not seated properly, I'll have to seat it properly into its notch.

Rolexman, I actually had to bring the voltage down to get a lighter look, if it is too high it will actually look tarnished, it will look like it is burnt. I wanted it with low luster, like the real incabloc. I can polish it and get a high nickle luster but it just doesent look right. I had to set the voltage to 3.5 volts to get the look just right, it's not perfect but I think it is close enough.

I am sure there will be some gremlins on this build as I did it just to see how far I can get with these Asian pieces. So far though, it has been working flawlessly for two weeks.

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The Zigmeister the plating process deposits such a thin layer it is negligible microns at most

Why is it I can't say The Zigmeister with out the server putting his full user name(the Zigmeister)

Yet, Andy can say The Zigmeister????see there it goes again!!!!!

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It is such minute amounts and the fact that I always use heavy latex gloves that it does not concern me. Now rhodium is another story, it gets in the air and is toxic, I have to wear a face mask to keep from breathing it in.

Some guys have all the luck, Andy.....

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Gorgeous work wow

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