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MBK 1680 just came in


Beone21

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Hey all,

 

Thanks to this forum I sold my TC LV and my Franken 16610 to go vintage.

Yesterday received my 1680 from Reg, and I have to admit at first I thought: what did I do?? :bangin:

 

It doesn't look sharp, or glossy. Because of the domed crystal it looks smaller and I missed my LV straight away.

But it's growing on me, and after I get it back from RolexAddict it will be even better.

 

I have the following parts to add to the watch:

Clark 127 crystal

TC hands

TC crown and tube.

 

One thing struck me as odd, the bracelet. It says 16520 which seems to reffer to a Daytona??

PICS:

IMG_20121207_103513.jpg

IMG_20121207_103459.jpg

IMG_20121207_103541.jpg

Edited by Beone21
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When you get it back from RA you won't regret your decision. It may take a little time but it will keep on getting better, like a fine wine. Enjoy. Don't know about that bracelet number but start researching gen bracelets you might find a decent one at a reasonable price then you can gradually add to the watch and make a stunner. Great starting point though. Wear it well. Oh and welcome to the vintage world - it's where it's at!

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Bracelet should be a 9315 or 93150 w/ 580 end links. the old 9315's were pretty flimsy, so most of them have been replaced over time with 93150's. There are some pretty good reps of those bracelets around, with hte 93150, you can find a good rep bracelet and replace the clasp with a genuine and genuine 580 end links. the MBW/MBK 1680's are very moddable, and make great vintage projects. the biggest problem in the past was the old skool MBW 1680,s did not take a genuine or genuine size dial. Don't know about the newer ones.

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Bracelet should be a 9315 or 93150 w/ 580 end links. the old 9315's were pretty flimsy, so most of them have been replaced over time with 93150's. There are some pretty good reps of those bracelets around, with hte 93150, you can find a good rep bracelet and replace the clasp with a genuine and genuine 580 end links. the MBW/MBK 1680's are very moddable, and make great vintage projects. the biggest problem in the past was the old skool MBW 1680,s did not take a genuine or genuine size dial. Don't know about the newer ones.

 

no, you can see the correct sized dial is in these photos but you can tell the diameter of the case is too narrow as the swiss T25 at the bottom is touching the metal and the minute hashes are about half as long as they should be.

 

 

if youre keeping the red dial id try and obtain a vintage fat coronet crown instead of the TC crown

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All genuine and aftermarket dials are made to fit a genuine case, so no matter which dial you use, yuki,J&W,NDT or genuine, you are going to have the same problem. That is the primariry reason most of the modders here, tend to stick with the MBW dial, or a similar one that's made for the case. Also that's the reason you don't see any 1680 Superfrankens with 1570 movements. No reason to invest in a 1K+ movement if you can't use a genuine or good aftermarket dial.

 

these are great watches, and they are certainly moddable up to a point, genuine insert/pearl. crown, lugholes drilled good aftermarket or genuine springbars,bracelet /endlinks, etc. It's just not the right case to take it to the ultimate level of a genuie dial and movement.

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I've a gen white 1680 dial that has been modded by the zigmeister for the mbw case. It's sitting in my parts box now. I sold the case a couple years ago. It was a nice great fit.

 

What did he do to it to make it fit correctly? Also what datewheel were you going to use/ just asking because The biggest problem I have with my MBW 1680 is the datewheel is right justified to the point that when you look at double numbers especially the 20's , half + of the 2 is outside the date window. Where does the genuine dial's date window sit in relation to the original MBW dial.

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