importr Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 My friends watch has this. Does anyone know of what tube & thread type I need to replace it with please? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cougar1 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 I'd be interested in knowing this also. Are gen parts definitely not available? A good aftermarket swiss would be a good option for these reps. I've no idea of tube dia and thread type though, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdian Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolexman Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Parts are almost impossible to source. It's a weak point of this model. I shortened the stem and it remained WP. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/147390-breitling-abyss-sufferig-from-weak-crowns/?hl=%2Bstripped 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdian Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Too bad, this is my beach and pool watch, so I need extremely sure on WR. Maybe need to slap back some rubber on the PAMs for wet affair, and shorten the abyss' stem the way you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolexman Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Too bad, this is my beach and pool watch, so I need extremely sure on WR. Maybe need to slap back some rubber on the PAMs for wet affair, and shorten the abyss' stem the way you did. The Abyss has 3 seals. 2 in the crown tube and one in the crown itself. If you cut the stem just the right length you will have absolutely no problems with WR. The seals are very thick and tight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Risdian Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Thanks rolexman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cougar1 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Good info, thanks Rolexman! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van_damme1988 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Thanks rolexman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importr Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Excellent advice, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMM Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I really think there are two distinct versions of this rep. My blue Abyss is from the first batch, circa early 2011. It has weak lume on the dial markers, but the numbers on the bezel and the text on the dial are sharper than in the version van_damme1988 reviewed here: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/151809-breitling-superocean-42-abyss-yellow. The lume dots on the rehaut on mine are also less rounded off. The newer one has better dial lume but seems to have more build issues. All three I've seen with a stripped crown have been the version with the better dial lume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van_damme1988 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 yep, that is true, according to versions. I found this out after few days of wearing them (or checking every five minutes) on daily basis. If you search for the older version and the newer one and compare them, there are at least two main differences which can immediately identify v1 and v2 (not officialy v1 and v2, but lets say it is so). Generally I think, the older version was better. First - compare casebacks. V1 had much better and deeper engravings so it is more gen like. Second - look at the side screws on the bezel; v1 has them correctly placed at 5-15-25-35-45-55 as well as gen. V2 has screws at 10-20-30-40-50-60. According to second flaw, you can remove the bezel and fix it the same way as you change the insert on rolex. According to lume, i think that i have seen stock v1 dials which were slightly better. Lume on the v2 is not one of the best. Dots on the inner ring are acceptable - on 1-5 grade scale i would give it grade 3. Stick markers are bad - grade 4 (if grade 5 means missing lume ). Hands look that they are made in other factory and the lume is like grade 2 (if grade 1 is considered complete re-lume). So it depends. I think lume here is not a tell as those differences are so little, that they are almost the same. The date between lugs on both v1 and v2 is correct. You can compare it to older review qritten by Importr here http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/134093-superocean-abyss-2010-review/ So it would be nice to find out, which version has this crown tube stripping problem. The worst thing is, that anything other is ok, which makes me think - do i have to mod them a little? The thing is, I love them But if i invest in re-lume, gen 428x strap, v1 caseback, WR and movement service - will i ever sell them? Is it wort modding, if there is gen fot 1,7k +-? Yeah, you get sport watches running well at +- 600-700 USD, but is it worth modding? Depends how much do you love them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMM Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 I bought a gen bracelet for my "v1" and called it a day. Lume on the dial is subpar, rest is good enough. To me, the first tell is the dial text. On the "v2," the dial text looks a little blurry - serifs on the fonts are gone, spaces between lines on letters like "E" are smaller - as if the print was just done too bold and too dark. You noted it in your review - the word "BREITLING" on the dial looks like it's arial. On mine the serifs are much more apparent. Not as clear as gen, but a lot closer. I can tell you my crown is now going on 2 years old and has had no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnkay Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Anyone know how to either shorten the stem or make the crown a "push-pull" instead of screw-down? I've read both as solutions but have no idea how this is done. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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