quaresma7 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Hi Guys!! I'm thinking about use that dial in 5514 project. I have to see in Chrono24 a 5514 and think It's the same like this. http://www.chrono24.es/rolex/submariner-5514-comex--id2468175.htm?id=2468175&picnum=0&tab=pics But What do You think, is it gen or rep?! And second question Can I use for 5514 with no Comex dial. All comments are welcome! Thanks so much for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 if its gen, which I dont think it is, you're gonna have to outbid me on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Imo not gen, the back of the plate looks really strange, the position of the feet are correct and that little hole but it's not a genuine rolex plate. The dial print is not crisp, there are spots where the paint is too thin like middle of the coronet.. Print up close looks bad, rolex print is crisp. Here's a comparo with the dial you showed from chrono24 You may not be able to tell but trust me the print is not rolex quality. Run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Big as I can get it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 also, not a Mark V as advertised. Coronet is wrong for a MK V. was hopeful about this one as well, but I knew just by the printing being so heavy that it was not gen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) Ubi used a feet first dial in his build, so I think it can be done. Here's some discussion: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/162792-non-comex-dial-in-5514/ Edited November 6, 2013 by tomhorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Originally, without seeing the back, I thought this was a gen dial. But the back looks new/aftermarket. Like Ubi, I also used a ft 1st in my pre-Comex, but the cross in the t should be a bit higher than the cross in the f for a pre-Comex (at least that is the way they are on the 2 gens that I am aware of), which this dial does not have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 there are no meters first pre comex dials. only a ft first dial is appropriate for that build. and yes, as freddy said, the line from the f to the t should be on the same level and cross into one another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 For a pre comex build I'd say you're better off using a mkI or mkII dial. Note the centered = under the A on the gen vs the slightly off center on the mkIV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Gen print shots of mk2 and then 4: So guess yours would fall into mk2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) this is a shot of a correct pre-comex dial. Look at the angle of the depth rating, and the connecting ft Also take a look at the coronet, quite different from that dial Edited November 6, 2013 by lionsandtigers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaresma7 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks so much for all your comments guys, you've been a great help I'll tryed to find a pre comex dial with those specs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 be prepared to spend over $1000 at least, most likely a lot more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogladio Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 (edited) Pardon me still being kind of newbie on 5514s, but do you guys mean that the one in the OP link (Chrono24) is fake / has a replaced dial? Should a non logo 5514 always be depth-on-top? Edited November 7, 2013 by ogladio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Pardon me still being kind of newbie on 5514s, but do you guys mean that the one in the OP link (Chrono24) is fake / has a replaced dial? Should a non logo 5514 always be depth-on-top? The dial in the chrono 24 watch is a gen mk11 (type 2) 5513 maxi dial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Depth rating on top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc33 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Looks like the guys over at vrf think it's gen, I've never seen print quality like that on a rolex dial until now! Sorry again op! Strange though that some mk11 dials have sharp print and some don't.. Almost like a big batch had printing that bled but rolex said ah well put them into watches anyhow.. Weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Saw the same thread. Am surprised myself but they said that the plates eventually produced less sharp writing. In this case you have someone to bid against now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 After much back and forth btw here and vrf I decided this dial is gen and won it, like I said I would. A bit more than I wanted to pay but for an mkII I think it's a good deal. Can always unload it on vrf if need be but I plan on using this for my 5514 despite that fact that it's technically incorrect.Thanks for the info, anyone have a set if NOS tritium hands now???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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