1003 'Explorer' project...

[automatico]

I write these notes just in case someone down the road gets bogged down on a project and maybe needs a way out without spending a lot of time and/or $$. I know very few members care but some of us work on projects quite a bit. Maybe someone will read this and it will help them out of a jam.

 

I just finished a 1003 'explorer' project with a genuine 1003 case, 1560 mvt, Yuki dial, ST hands, and Sternkreuz 12 crystal.

It all went Ok except for the bezel as the case came with a 14k gold bezel and I needed a steel bezel.

 

Here is the problem...

The case uses the same crystal as an Air King and a few other no date 34mm watches...number 12.
I went to eBay to see how much a bezel would cost and the bezels that were claimed to be genuine ran from $75 to $295(!!) and most were said to fit 5500, 1002, 1003, 1500 etc with the 1500 being an OP Date. I passed on eBay offerings and bought a new replacement bezel for an OPD from ST Supply for $15. It was about half a mm too high but I figured I could lower it by sanding it down.

The ST bezel is the exact same inside diameter as a genuine 1500/15000 bezel.

 

I tried three or four different number 12 aftmkt crystals and they all were the same...the bezel was too loose, you could pull it off with a feather.

So...the sellers on eBay are wrong about their bezels fitting the 1500 and 1002 etc. They will not fit them all. Typical eBay information.

I never needed a bezel for a no date 34mm watch so I did not know about the different bezel sizes on vintage 34mm no date and date cases.

 

I went so far as to remove a bezel from a genuine rolex 1500 OPD and compared it with the ID of the ST bezel...both are the same.

I even mounted a new genuine number 12 crystal...same story, the genuine 1500 bezel is too loose with a number 12 crystal on a 1003 case. I have some 316L bezel blanks but it takes me half a day to make a bezel from scratch so I was looking for an easier solution. 

 

What did I do? Worried it over for a few days. Yesterday I was prowling through my watch stuff and found a couple 34mm flatback 'tudor' cases I got from JMB a couple years ago with glass crystals and popped one of the bezels off and tried it on the 1003 case with a Sternkreuz number 12.

It was a perfect fit and also low profile like an original 1002/3 bezel!

Problem solved.

 

Etc...

A 1002/3/5500 genspec case back will not fit the 34mm 'tudor' case.

The 'tudor' case would be a good base for a 34mm 'explorer' project with an Eta mvt, Yuki dial, number 12 crystal, and properly shaped case back. You could probably get by using the 'flatback' case back that comes on the case if you sanded the 'tudor' lettering off of it.

The JMB 34mm case would also be ideal for a tooter ranger project...the dial seat is 27.3mm, dial window opening is 26.25mm and the case neck is 28.15mm.

A genspec number 12 acrylic crystal is a good fit and a Yuki ranger dial is 27mm.

[DVNE]

Awesome info! Thanks for sharing

[jmb]

That is very interesting about the Explorer.  I have used these cases for the Prince Oysterdate, Prince Date, Air-King, and OPD.  All but a Prince Date would need the case-back to be attended to (if stuff like that bothers you) but that is pretty easy for a Rolex by use of a belt sander...

[lhooq]

Great info as always, automatico.  There appears to be a 34mm-sized hole in my watch box.

[jmb]

M, funny you should chime in as you immediately came to mind when I read this!