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MBW Cases/5513 or 5514 options


ww12345

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I know this has been tread over a few times, but does anyone sell just regular 5513 MBW/MBK cases? I think there were a few people on here a couple of years ago that could just get cases and I wondered if that was still the case.

 

That said, is that even still the best case (besides a HH case) for an early COMEX 5513? I've got an old Josh SD 1665 (with the paperclip bezel) and was toying with the idea of using that if I shaved the case down a bit. Is WSO stiil OK for 5513 bezels?

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This is probably no help at all but on my MBK cases the laser etched numbers between the lugs are not deep at all and same goes for the case back. They are not convincing at all. What I did was use an MBK '5513' case with a DW '5513' case back with stamped numbers...DW case backs are not top of the line but are lettered (stamped, not etched) much better than MBW. Later on I plan to have a friend engrave new numbers between the lugs with an old Hermes pantograph.

 

MBK cases are very well made and all three of mine (2/1680, 1/5513) have gasket grooves in the case top under the crystal retaining bezel like later models and accept genspec case tubes etc. The catch is they are all identical, (5513 and 1680) and all of the dial windows are machined to use 26.0mm dials. Because of this, a later MBK 1680 case will work for a 5513 project using a genspec 26.0mm dial but not a genspec 26.5mm 1680 dial.

Genspec 5512/13 dials are 26.0mm and 1680 dials are 26.5mm.

 

A later MBK case is fine for a 5512/13 project as long as you plan to use an Eta movement. Use a genuine 1520/30/60/70 and the movement mounts too far to the front of the case.

MBK cases work a little better on 1680 projects using a genuine movement but the dial window is too small and covers too much of the minute markers plus the dial seat is too small as it is machined for a 26.0mm dial. Without being able to do the necessary case work or knowing a modder...a Yuki case is probably a better alternative in a high quality project and the numbers are much better.

I do not know the exact differences (if any) between earlier MBW/MBK cases and today's MBK cases. My 1680 cases are about 2 years old and came from the shop at MBK Mall. The 5513 case came from a member around the same time. I used ST bezel kits but MBK bezel assemblies are Ok as is.

 

If you go with a cartel case you need a case that...

Will accept a genspec crystal and case tube.

Has room to drill the lug holes out to 1.3mm...some have the holes drilled too close to an edge.

Has the back gasket in the case back if possible. The gasket groove cut in the case is Ok as long as the case back appears to be thick around the outside edge like genuine. Many cases with the gasket groove in the case have the outer edge of the case back machined too thin...it's a quick tell.

Has CG with enough metal to allow them to be shaped to match genuine. 

Has beveled lug tops if possible.

Has a fairly thin mid case, many are too thick.

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I don't really care about engravings. To me, that's a little too obsessive - I don't use gen movements, so the second someone opens it the jig is up, so to speak. Ditto for the lug engravings - usually do my best to scratch out the engravings, making it look like many of the gens I've seen in person and on VRF.

 

However, there are some things like case thickness and CGs that do matter and that some are better then others. It seems like an MBK case would be the best, unless the Josh case I have now is good enough. I'll take a picture and see if I can attach it to the next post. One of the things the Josh case has going for it is the COMEX engraving, which I believe is close-ish to an early COMEX back. Ditto for the HEV, even though it is fake.

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If that Josh case has gen-like bezel assembly with the crystal retention ring and snap on bezel, you're in good shape.

crown guards might be a tad stubby, but i saw where Rolex Addict straightened up the insides, slimmed down the outsides and then drilled the tube hole a little deeper- ended up looking ok.

Your lugholes can be drilled to 1.2mm or whatever it is- i use the #55 drill bit from Snap-On tools

A new pearl in the bezel insert and you're looking good. A gen crown and tube also, of course

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It doesn't have gen bezel assembly, but I was thinking of getting an aftermarket one and having JMB make me a new bezel ring... Agreed on the CGs. I'm going to see if I can get an Ayatha 702 crown and tube. Other than that, does the case look OK for a mid-price 5514 build?

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Cool - got the Athaya crown. I've now got the crown, the case, the Whoopy 5514 dial, and the T-19 crystal. Now I just need to get a gen bezel assembly and movement. Who's best for the bezel assembly right now? Clarks or WSO? From what I understand, they both have problems... Also, where's a good place to get an ETA movement (cheap)?

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ETA movements are a challenge these days. If you find one on ebay, it will probably require a service and by the time all's said and done, you'll probably have $200 in it.

Buying a Josh or Andrew 5513/4 with a 2846-2 and gen bezel assembly might be cheaper in the long run.

Bezel-wise, I prefer to buy from Clark's over WSO, but either way, you may have to do some sanding to make parts fit and work properly.

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Clark's 5513 assemblies are the same as the Startime assemblies. As such, you will have to go through some intense sanding/polishing to get them to. Gen-like sheen. The bezels are matte stainless and a b--tch to polish.. Especially between the teeth.

At the same time, gen inserts to do not fit easily without some modification.

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I polished my ST/Clark bezels on a 1725 rpm 1/4 hp bench buffer with a 6 inch buff and it was still a hassle. I used two grades of buffing compound and finished up with Simichrome polish. They turned out Ok but still lack the sheen of a highly polished part. I put one in a lathe and spun it while holding 1000 sandpaper against it but it still leaves the grooves rough and is not really worth the trouble.

 

I tried two or three inserts before I found one that fit just right and it was a 'vintage' 1680/5513 type from Jules Borel that I bought 5 or 6 years ago. No telling what they have now.

 

The general rule for replica parts...

'None Of It Fits Anything'

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Hmmm... Yeah, I wonder if buying the Josh watch plus a Clarks retaining ring and bezel might be the cheapest way to go, in the long run. That way I would have the option of swapping stuff back and forth between cases, getting the best of both, plus having a decent bezel. I don't mind if it's not super shiny like gen - I usually like my watches to look more "used" than some of the members. They usually spend quite some time in JMB's rock tumbler! lol

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