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5513 build help


Ezio

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So guys since watchaddict made a sale of a really beautiful 5513 im going after the build since it Got sold before i could take it sadly so need your expert help here

What is the best model to work out from in Shaving the cg's and put a gen insert and dial in with a swiss ETA ?? And ofc lugholes

All help and inspiration even of you Got a 5513 you dont want everything is welcome

Thanks and best regards as Always Simon

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Hi, I´ve been looking into this and until now and the deeper I dig the more questions arise:) Never felt so Noob like now....... any help/ comment from forum members would be great:)

 

- by far the best caseset I came up with at an affordable price is the Cartel 5512/5513 in the 13mm version with a 21j ($118). It definitely needs shaving the cg-guards and an Athaya-crown and tube. Stopped there because for changing the tube I´ll need help and/or a special tool https://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/tools/pusher-or-tube-removing-and-fitting-tools/pendant-tube-fitting-removing-tools#. Don´t know if just the crown can be exchanged, this would be really helpful if someone could chime in:)

http://www.homageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=24671

- The 21j beatrate fits this one better than the ETA except a low-beat ETA 2846. I want to keep the 21j but here again not sure if a Yuki dial and which one will be a direct fit. As things are, also discovered now I need 2 vintage builds! :)

Somehow either the caseset or the dial is wrong or it´s too expensive so for the dial I found: One 2-liner with the 200m first http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/8677972/9760586.htm and another with the Explorer-style 3-6-9 gilt dial like this: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/8677972/9766064.htm - it would come with a gilt handset as well - if someone knows, please would this fit a cartel-case and a 21j movement and would the hands fit as well?

- remains a swap of the crystal/plexi for a Clarks one and the bracelet.

This is my status quo for the time being, would have started already without answering those questions if not for the $70 extra shipping cost from Trusty/Josh to EU.

 

Curious to see what You can come up with. Good luck with the project.

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In an ideal world (without going crazy), I would try to find one of the old MBW 'Polex' cases, or one of HH's. These would be found in M2M sales (post a WTB). Other (more expensive) options are Phong, Yuki and Minh.

 

Otherwise I think you are stuck with the cartel 1680/5513. This one will take a bit of reshaping to get right.

 

ETA 2846 or 2879 are both options for ETA movements, depending on the case you end up with.

 

If you want to go gilt, I'd see if Whoopy has any of his gilt 5513 dials left.

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The Athaya crown/tube is a must on a cartel case. However you don't need special tools, just remove the old tube with pliers (it will get destroyed, but it's crap anyway), countersink the hole with a 5(?) mm drill bit and carefully screw the new tube in place using the crown and some loctite. 

 

(Of course the special tool wouldn't hurt, but it can be done without.)

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  • 1 year later...
15 hours ago, emameme said:

Guys I have broke the case? this is whats happened when I have tried to remove the cartel's tube:

Oh man! Same thing happened to my cartel with an Athaya tube LOL. I have no idea what to do. I think the tube us glued in so I was thinking about supergluing a hex key in there, letting it sit and then trying to remove it all at once but I have no idea if that will work. I also am thinking that the case may need to be heated to get it out... Sigh

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"Heat up that area..."

+1

Heating the area helps a LOT.

You might try a piece of hard wood tapered with flats cut on it first. You never know, maybe the wood will snag the threads and turn them out with no risk of damage. I have also used a brass rod sharpened and fluted like a broach. A steel file, broach, or tap is my last resort.

Something else you could try is cut a tap short enough to start from inside the case and maybe cut the old tube out. The tap will start straight in the clean threads. It will kill a $$ tap but is a 'not too much risk' method. I bought some 3.0mm x .35mm taps made in Bosnia that only cost $5 each...maybe you can find some cheapo taps somewhere. I ordered mine from a nut/bolt/tool outfit years ago.

BTW here are the taps for $5.40 each:

http://www.victornet.com/tools/Metric-Taps/139.html

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Heat up that area and get a file of the right size and press it in there and twist away. Then rethread and insert correct tube with

Blue loctite.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean with:> its a rasp?

And is possible that the threat is a non-standard M3x0,35? LoL

Inviato dal mio A0001 utilizzando Tapatalk

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What do you mean with:> its a rasp?

And is possible that the threat is a non-standard M3x0,35? LoL

Inviato dal mio A0001 utilizzando Tapatalk

Correct Rolex tube thread and pitch is m3x.035. Rethread using this and insert gen spec tube with loctite. No gorilla strength, just tight. Let it cure for 24hrs and you're set

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On 14/4/2016 at 4:29 PM, Ephry73 said:

Heat up that area and get a file of the right size and press it in there and twist away. Then rethread and insert correct tube with

Blue loctite.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

On 14/4/2016 at 5:41 PM, Ephry73 said:

Correct Rolex tube thread and pitch is m3x.035. Rethread using this and insert gen spec tube with loctite. No gorilla strength, just tight. Let it cure for 24hrs and you're set

Guys, I have received the tip M3X0.35 and I have done the job:

pixlr_20160418212351476_zpstbvrskv2.jpg

There is a little deformation on the backside, generated when i have removed the stock tube - it can create a problem with the backcase :( 

Now, for fit the Athaya tube, i have only purple Loctice (222), its OK or the blue one its a must?

Thank you

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