My first movement teardown

[GenTLe]

Said from you I consider it a great compliment. Thanks!!

I'm waiting a 1900 Timegrapher from Uk now to properly finish it

[Tim]

Once you get the autowinder off and are at the mainplate, it's best to start at the balance wheel and remove the entire escapement first before getting to the train of wheels. Don't start with the barrel bridge. That way if you forget to relieve the mainspring all you get is a run away gear train but no damage done. For your flat click spring and keyless works spring, the plastic bag trick works but is cumbersome. Learn to pin the apex of the flat springs with a piece of peg wood and that is usually all you need do either putting it in or taking it out. Modify your oilers by filing the very tip just a touch flat so that the oil drop forms on the tip as opposed to the side. Too much oil will spread and foul your pinions, creeping down the staff eventually causing a variety of problems. And of course never oil the pallet, just the front of the pallet jewels. But that will take practice.

Edited October 22, 2014 by Tim

[GenTLe]

Thanks Tim.

About the oilers, which is the better shape in order to avoid the "oil on the side" problem?

[fraggle42]

Very impressive work!

 

I'm (very slowly) doing it the wrong way by buying the stuff first and then learning things, but I'm terrible at making myself sit down and learn in the evening so end up just having to dive straight in when something needs doing for real

[Tim]

Thanks Tim.

About the oilers, which is the better shape in order to avoid the "oil on the side" problem?

Like I said a small flat spot at the tip does wonders. This is something every watchmaker does when getting new dip oilers. Like a grain of wheat with the pointy end removed. File it a little, dip it, and then watch how the oil drop forms. If you feel like fiddling around a bit before committing your actual oilers, get a paper clip and some needle files and experiment. Playing around like this is helpful because you also develop a feel for how the oil acts and flows.

[GenTLe]

Thanks Tim, I'll give them a try

[ceejay]

Once you get the autowinder off and are at the mainplate, it's best to start at the balance wheel and remove the entire escapement first before getting to the train of wheels. Don't start with the barrel bridge. That way if you forget to relieve the mainspring all you get is a run away gear train but no damage done. For your flat click spring and keyless works spring, the plastic bag trick works but is cumbersome. Learn to pin the apex of the flat springs with a piece of peg wood and that is usually all you need do either putting it in or taking it out. Modify your oilers by filing the very tip just a touch flat so that the oil drop forms on the tip as opposed to the side. Too much oil will spread and foul your pinions, creeping down the staff eventually causing a variety of problems. And of course never oil the pallet, just the front of the pallet jewels. But that will take practice.

 

I took my oilers to a fine whetstone after reading this and they are now so much better, I squared off the tips, made the tip flatter and the polishing action also helped in getting the oil off the oiler onto the part I was oiling.

 

I can't believe that none of our tutors thought us this when quite a few of my class (training in Horology) struggled with cap jewel oiling and pallet stone oiling due to the oil not running off the oiler.

Thank's for the heads up.

[kbh]

What's the secret to getting the Novadiac spring back in place. First time I tried I got it pretty quick. Since then I've spent hours trying and mostly just watch them disappear after many minutes of floundering around.

[SSTEEL]

If you don't have the special tool you can make one from some peg wood.  Basically shape the end of the peg wood like an inverted cone shape similar o a staking tool stake.

[kbh]

Thanks Mickey. I was wondering if there was a special tool. I'd love to see a picture of an actual tool. I'd have a better idea of how to go about making one. But it does sound pretty easy to figure out from your description.

[kbh]

Found this with Google: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/125357-eta-novodiac-spring-tool/

 

And this:

Although the tool looks like it would still be a PIA because holding down all 3 sides of the spring at once is the hard part.

[kbh]

And this seems the better idea:

[SSTEEL]

Thats the one mate, the peg wood DIY job

[GenTLe]

And I can confirm it works (I confirm also that it's not easy to create that shape in a ehm piece of soft wood...)

[kbh]

I just made a wooden one with a toothpick. Although I haven't used it to re-install a jewel keeper yet, it does seem to work quite easily when just moving the keeper around on an old movement shock jewel. Didn't take but a few minutes to carve it out.