droptopman Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Good afternoon, This is my 1,000 post....never knew I would spend so much time here So I am grinding on a gen Rolex purchase so thought I would reach out for some feedback/help. Little background information. Current rep pieces on the winder, my humble collection: 116334, 116233, 118238 (both modded/build by Matt), 216570, 11622 (modded BK WM9), 16613 (really old rep), 16610 (TC), 16750 somewhat franken and a modded 1016 that is being assembled. Of the gens I have had it is close call between the 14060, 16523, and 16613 for my favorite. If I really think back the 14060 was probably the most versatile watch I have ever had. Just seemed to work for any occasion--except really formal. Just an easy and great piece to wear. Here is my narrowed down list: 114060, or 214270. I love simple dials and no dates. One of the reasons I am going gen on one of these models is because there really is not a good rep of any these, at least to my eyes. I had also considered going vintage 5512/5513 or 1016 or another 14060, but then there is servicing and other potentially expensive issues with a gen that old, so part of my thinking is to buy a new or close to new model with warranty intact. Any thoughts? Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Congratulations on your 1000th post. For me I would go the new sd 4000. I ve seen it in the flesh and it's a simple piece. But from your list I would go for the sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Furthermore I've got a gen 5513 &1680 and they are both beautiful pieces .so I would prefer vintage gens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezio Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Go for the no date as you say its a great watch in alot of ways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 My 114060 says the no-date: However, if you can rummage up another $3k, get the SD4000c. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 Thanks guys, wavering a bit on modern versus vintage. Think I will wait until my 1016 is done and see how much I will sport another vintage piece. I do like those maxi dials but I also like the slenderness of the vintage cases.... Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 I shy away from newer genuine rolex watches because of high buy in prices and no parts but have always liked vintage models with 1530 base movements (I owned them back when they were new in stores). That being said, the 1530 base watches also have a parts problem today...there are plenty parts around but the prices are absurd. Example...I just paid $20.00 for a nos 1530 set lever with $3.75 written on the blister pack! So...if the '1016' does not scratch the itch maybe a super nice 5512/13 or 1680 with MBK or Yuki case and fresh swiss eta 2846 etc would do. Since the case and dial are what shows, I would get high quality parts but older eta movements needing c/o are relatively cheap. As for the 1680...I like them with swiss eta quick set movements as opposed to genuine slow set movements. Grind the date notches away on the set bridge and no one will know it is a QS. Imho today's new style of rolex vs vintage rolex = flash vs class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 I believe in having a balance. I know droptop has a few vintages and while a 5513 should be the cornerstone of any serious vintage Rolex collection, complementing a modern with the handful of view vintages he has now makes a lot of sense. Would you have a garage full of vintage '60's muscle cars? Prob not. You'd have a '62 vette, '69 Camaro and maybe a newer model 911 and a suburban. I think the ratio of vintages to modern is ideally around 3:1 when it comes to watches. No worries about waterproofness. I would not let my '67 5513 out into the rain. So there's also the issue of practicality to consider as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 If you'd like the best of both worlds, then the best choice is the MKI or MKII 16660 Seadweller. "Modern" 3035 movement, sapphire Crystal, solid SELs , but also has the vintage elements of tritium dial/hands and lugholes! I recently sold mine and kinda regretting it. But the 666 is an acceptable compromise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 That SD is really sweet. Thanks for the feedback. I do like the 1966 ish 5512/5513 a bunch but also the Seamaster from that era. My 1016 is based on a 1966 also. Birth year. The modern models are easy just go buy one. Vintage I will need to do a lot of shopping until one jumps out at me. Keep the comments coming it helps. Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpz5142 Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 How about a Daytona, nothing says classic Rolex like a white dial 16520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crwilsn Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) +1 on the 666. I was just in the same dilemma and picked up a matte dial 666 with a later service dial. I am looking for an original dial but the are scarce and expensive. Currently have a yuki dial in it as an interim step and am quite happy with the result. In fact I may just keep this dial in anyway. Edited September 21, 2014 by Crwilsn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crwilsn Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) Also if you are good with a sub, 16800s are a bargain. You can still find matte dial ones under 6k for a nice one, unlike 666 mattes which are over 10k. Edited September 21, 2014 by Crwilsn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks for all the input it was very helpful. I forgot that I ordered one of PBDAD's Project X Subs, so that would be another modern version and sort of a no date modern sub. Although by the time I actually receive it, it may be vintage:). Spend some more time looking at gens again this weekend. Nothing really grabs me except for the Ceramic Pepsi GMT which is 36K and is out of my price range. It would be stupid to buy something just to buy something. If they did a SS GMT Pepsi version I would have ordered one of those as I can stare at that insert for hours...It is one of those pieces I know without wearing I would love. With that being said, I am definitely going vintage on the next piece. So a follow up question for you guys. I love 6538's and 5512/13's. Obviously a gen 6538 is out of question, but a gen 5512/13 is doable. However, I could potentially build 1 or 2 pretty nice frankens for what a nice 5512/13 gen would cost. I know some of you have experience with both (builds and gens). So buy or build? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 I know you can afford it. I say buy a gen birth year 5513. It will be something you will never resell. Others will come and go, but this one will be a keeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Frankensteins are not cheap but they do not have to be overly expensive either. Here is what my last '5513' project cost: MBK 5513 case...$300 DW case back $80 (better lettering, figure half of the $159 price for a complete case when I bought it). ST bezel kit...$70 (had the MBK bezel set but went with ST). GS PA 462 66 crystal...$12. TC case tube and crown...$25 ST hands...$15 Yuki white 5513 dial...$104 1520 movement...$650 iirc, got it in 2008, c/o twice plus one mainspring and one rotor axle/top jewel $45. Total about $700. Center wheel, canon pinion, and calendar spacer...$100. Had to make the movement the same thickness as a date movement because the MBK 5513 is really a 1680 spec case. Gaskets/screws, springbars etc about $20. Folded oyster from 'Mary'...$60. Replica hoods and flip lock clasp...$25. Total = about $1500. Could save $150 by using MBK case back and bezel assembly bringing it down to about $1350. Since the case back and bezel kit were not necessary, the $1350 figure should be the finished price...not too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Here's my 5513 with a pre comex dial. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks for all the feedback it has really helped me. On the hunt for a 1966 5512/13. I kind of like the gilt "Bart Simpson" model, just because it is a little different. Any suggested sources outside the norm...ebay, Chrono24, Bobs Watches, VRF.... If anyone runs across a nice 66 send me a link:) Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Mine is a 67 model replaced with a pre comex dial (bart Simpson) in the 70s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 A pre Comex is not a Bart Simpson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 The "Bart Simpson" has a squatty crown like Bart's hair. Here are a couple of pics one white and one gilt. If only that gilt one was still for sale..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Oops my bad. thought it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 All good MJ, Beautiful piece by the way. Love the fading on the insert. dbanes is like that also. I am just in love with that gilt dial in the second picture. On the hunt, but every time I think I found the one I want, I find something that I do not like on it. It's the OCD.... Again thanks for all the help everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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