Starting a 5513 Gilt Build, Need Advice

[hughesj]

Hey guys,

I'm starting a 5513 build and need a little help. this is the look that i'm going after:

First thing i need advice on is the insert. I know that in general, people use a bleach bath to fade the insert, but i've noticed that makes the bezel fade into a gray color. is there a way to make it fade into the bluish-gray color above?

Next, the 1680 that i ordered as the base for this build has an a2836-2 and wanted to know what the low beat equivalent of this movement is (is it the eta 2846? 2873?).

And lastly, what is the best way to age the hands? The one's i got from yuki are polished and too new lowing. I've used eggs for vintage pam hands, but was just wondering if there's a better way.

Thanks in advance,
-James-

[whoopy12]

Hey James,

A big factor regarding the fading color is what type of anodization was utilized during the insert's production. A great illustrated example of this can be found in the link below. Of course fading technique is also important.

Also, a lot of the gen blue inserts you see started out on the blue Tudor submariners, and over the years were swapped onto Rollie's. To achieve a similar baseline, you may want to consider purchasing an aftermarket blue insert, and experiment with fading from there. The 2846 is the ETA movement most people prefer (regarding beat rate accuracy) for these vintage builds.

 

 

[Mendota Explorer]

Which 1680 did you end up purchasing for your base watch?  Can you link to it?

Eggs should work.  Another trick I've read about is using salt and vinegar.  You soak a paper towel with white vinegar and microwave it to get it steaming hot. Then put your hands on the ends of toothpicks and stick them into a lump of Rodico, and place that on top of the steaming paper towel.  Sprinkle sea salt onto the paper towel and then place a glass on top of the Rocico/hands to trap the fumes.  Over time the acid in the vinegar fumes, combined with the salt, will corrode the hands.  Watch it to make sure it doesn't happen too quickly.  Other members have tried ammonia on the paper towel and those vapors react too quickly. Literally within a couple of minutes the hands will corrode so fast that they might break.  Vinegar goes more slowly and isn't as caustic.

Yet another technique I read about on another forum is using this Japanese model building "patina paint."  They make kits for aging things such as model trains, cars, airplanes, buildings, etc. The kits come in "shades" and contain 3 colors. You use a very small amount of the paint and literally "flick it" onto the surface you are aging. the tiny specks of multiple colors recreate the look of patina on brass, iron, and other metals.  I think it may have been an old post on Homage Forum, actually.

Edited October 20, 2015 by Mendota Explorer

[hughesj]

Which 1680 did you end up purchasing for your base watch?  Can you link to it?

Eggs should work.  Another trick I've read about is using salt and vinegar.  You soak a paper towel with white vinegar and microwave it to get it steaming hot. Then put your hands on the ends of toothpicks and stick them into a lump of Rodico, and place that on top of the steaming paper towel.  Sprinkle sea salt onto the paper towel and then place a glass on top of the Rocico/hands to trap the fumes.  Over time the acid in the vinegar fumes, combined with the salt, will corrode the hands.  Watch it to make sure it doesn't happen too quickly.  Other members have tried ammonia on the paper towel and those vapors react too quickly. Literally within a couple of minutes the hands will corrode so fast that they might break.  Vinegar goes more slowly and isn't as caustic.

Yet another technique I read about on another forum is using this Japanese model building "patina paint."  They make kits for aging things such as model trains, cars, airplanes, buildings, etc. The kits come in "shades" and contain 3 colors. You use a very small amount of the paint and literally "flick it" onto the surface you are aging. the tiny specks of multiple colors recreate the look of patina on brass, iron, and other metals.  I think it may have been an old post on Homage Forum, actually.

starting with the new cartel 1680

[Mendota Explorer]

starting with the new cartel 1680

That looks pretty good! Which dealer are you using for it? Do you have a pic from the side profile? I'm wondering if that is the same case as the 5512 that was just recently discussed.

Have you picked out a dial for it?

[Kime]

Presumably that is this one from Josh?

http://www.pf-818.com/0rlsv01005-vintage-1680-asia-2836-best-p-9551.html

[Mendota Explorer]

 

Presumably that is this one from Josh?

http://www.pf-818.com/0rlsv01005-vintage-1680-asia-2836-best-p-9551.html

 

You know, it is funny but I think that is a better case for doing a 5512/5513 than the Josh 5512 that was recently posted and discussed! That other 5512 seemed to be thicker and had a strange case back. Am I wrong, or is this case better overall? If this is the one that the OP selected, it looks awesome to me.

Is it me, or are those lugholes also drilled out to accept gen bars? That's awesome if yes.

 

 

Edited October 21, 2015 by Mendota Explorer

[508-Fanatic]

Here's my gilt 5513 - remember if it's gilt, it's likely a PCG, right?

I have gen steel hands on mine as I age the gold ones. They were waaaaaaaaaaay too bright.

Edited October 21, 2015 by 508-Fanatic

[hughesj]

That looks pretty good! Which dealer are you using for it? Do you have a pic from the side profile? I'm wondering if that is the same case as the 5512 that was just recently discussed.

Have you picked out a dial for it?

Got it from toro, but the picture on his site showed the original josh 1680 (stubby cg's).

The dial I got is from Yuki

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[Kime]

 

You know, it is funny but I think that is a better case for doing a 5512/5513 than the Josh 5512 that was recently posted and discussed! That other 5512 seemed to be thicker and had a strange case back. Am I wrong, or is this case better overall? If this is the one that the OP selected, it looks awesome to me.

Is it me, or are those lugholes also drilled out to accept gen bars? That's awesome if yes.

 

 

Not sure they are... the one side shot gives me the impression the holes are small.

I would like to do a 1680 build and I think (always hard to get a straight answer) that his current 1680 is the same case it would certainly be a half decent start if the movement is kept as is.

[Mendota Explorer]

 

Got it from toro, but the picture on his site showed the original josh 1680 (stubby cg's).

 

The dial I got is from Yuki

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice looking dial!  I like that one a lot.  ETA dial feet and matching ETA hand set?  

[hughesj]

Very nice looking dial!  I like that one a lot.  ETA dial feet and matching ETA hand set?  

Yep.

Watch just came in today. Cg's look promising, from the front at least.

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[Mendota Explorer]

Yep.

Watch just came in today. Cg's look promising, from the front at least.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! That's the same one Kime linked earlier in the thread, right? How's the case back and the case profile? I'm just wondering how that 5512 case could be different. This one looks great!

How is the bezel construction?

[hughesj]

 

Nice! That's the same one Kime linked earlier in the thread, right? How's the case back and the case profile? I'm just wondering how that 5512 case could be different. This one looks great!

 

How is the bezel construction?

It looks very similar. Not sure if it's the same one. Here's a pic of the case back on the wrist. Not too sure how the bezel should feel, but tension seems moderate. Doesn't take that much force to turn.

 

Don't like the crown though, so I ordered an athaya 700 one.

 

Anyone know of a good place to get a thinner case back? Is the one from raffles time any good?

 

 

 

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Edited October 22, 2015 by hughesj

[Mendota Explorer]

 It looks very similar. Not sure if it's the same one. Here's a pic of the case back on the wrist. Not too sure how the bezel should feel, but tension seems moderate. Doesn't take that much force to turn.

 

Don't like the crown though, so I ordered an athaya 700 one.

 

Anyone know of a good place to get a thinner case back? Is the one from raffles time any good?

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just sent a PM for the link to this watch. Good call on the Athaya 700.

I'm just wondering if this is a paperclip type bezel construction or if it uses a retaining ring and tension washer setup.

Those lugholes look like they are wide enough for gen spec bars. I have a spare set of WSO 580 endlinks so I'll for sure swap the endlinks if I get this.

Very nice job so far with your parts!

[Dlf]

Those holes are not gonna fit gen spec bars. 

Maybe ask helenerou his casebacks are better.

I don't think raffles is a step up, only if it were a 1675 would I suggest using his caseback option.

youre ayatha crown will sit slightly lower in the case which is good proportionally for the cg's appearance too .

good luck with the build!

 

 

 

[hughesj]

Already shaping up nicely. Nos build for the time being.

Just took it apart. The bezel uses a retainer ring and tension washer.

Thanks, dlf.

Looks like I got drsd engravings...

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[Mendota Explorer]

Looks great so far! Can't wait until you receive the 700. Looking forward to seeing it. Which crystal did you install?

[Revere]

Looks pretty cool. Is there anything that can be done about the rehaut looking very flat?

 

It looks like on the gen it might be similar but the curvature of the plexi more or less masks it. I dunno, I could be wrong here

[hughesj]

Looks great so far! Can't wait until you receive the 700. Looking forward to seeing it. Which crystal did you install?

It's a Clarks t19.

As for the rehaut, I would like to know of a way to make it look better too.

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[hughesj]

one thing i've noticed about this watch is that the outer bezel is on way too loose. It turns with an ok amount of tension, but i can pop it off by simply pulling lightly with my finger. Any fix for this? or do i need to get a different assembly?

[whoopy12]

one thing i've noticed about this watch is that the outer bezel is on way too loose. It turns with an ok amount of tension, but i can pop it off by simply pulling lightly with my finger. Any fix for this? or do i need to get a different assembly?

What is the bezel assembly comprised of? Is there a metal washer under the outer bezel? Pulling the bezel off should require a fair amount of force, so you may need to look for another assembly.

[hughesj]

What is the bezel assembly comprised of? Is there a metal washer under the outer bezel? Pulling the bezel off should require a fair amount of force, so you may need to look for another assembly.

This is it. Just pulled it off with my finger nail, lol. Is the wso assembly any good?

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[whoopy12]

Yeah that should not be happening.. 

Try this assembly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Rotating-Bezel-Retainer-Spring-Insert-For-Rolex-5513-1680-/111799148267?hash=item1a07bf9eeb:g:fwsAAOSwhh5TpI8J

[Mendota Explorer]

Interesting. My puretime red 1680 assembly does not have the middle tension washer. I don't know if MD2020 forgot to put it back on my watch when he serviced it or if it just wasn't installed on my watch from the get go. The bezel ring just snaps down onto the retainer ring.

Do you guys know where I can get just the washer?