Query on noob V6s version of DSSD D-Blue HE valve

[richard591]

Can anyone answer this one for me?

 

Does the hole which takes the HE Valve on the noob DSSD V6s go all the way through the case, thus needing sealing internally to completely waterproof?

 

I have a DSSD D-Blue V6s which has just arrived from “Intime” and I’m currently going through re-regulation, which is going well. In doing this I have already inspected and greased all the gaskets as detailed in "gioarmani’s" post of August 2009, but not yet taken the movement out.

 

The reason I ask this question is that I also have (from a different source) a DSSD Black which is already completed (waterproofing and regulation) and when I took the movement out I discovered that the HEV hole on that one was not drilled all the way through the case, therefore not needing filling with epoxy.

 

It does seem rather counter-intuitive to drill a hole all the way through, thus compromising the case integrity, for a dummy valve that’s never going to actually be needed or used. However, I’m not sure on the noob V6s, as its way better and slightly different to the DSSD Black. Nevertheless, if I don’t need to disturb the movement on the D-Blue for the same reason, then it saves dismantling it all.

 

If anyone has done this or knows the answer I would greatly appreciate the info. Failing that I will have to contact Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the info for me.

All the best

Richard

 

[Drkitch109]

I don't think any of the reps have functional HEVs with gaskets. Assume you will have to mod to ensure waterproofness. I know for a fact that the new Tudor Pelagos from ZF does not include a functional HEV unfortunately.

For what it's worth the DSSDs out there from noob seem to have decent waterproofness out of the box but I still wouldn't tempt fate

[Sogeha]

I'm not trying to troll or make fun of a new member, but I wonder why anyone would want a working HEV in a rep. If it looks that part and doesn't leak it's good enough for me. If I am several hundred metres underwater, I'm in serious trouble regardless of how well my watch is coping.

[jmb]

I'm not sure about the newer reps but when the DSSD first came out a lot (maybe most) of reps had an HeV built backwards and needed to be epoxied.  If you can depress the center of your HeV from the outside then you should probably epoxy it, if not it's probably OK.  The easiest thing would be to pop the back and look...

[richard591]

Thanks everyone for the input.

Generally, if I need heavy duty waterproofing, I only ever wear my genuine Submariner.

The question was mainly to address and follow on from the very good post by "gioarmani" in August 2009, in which he covers the whole issue of waterproofing and clearly states that no rep should be regarded as watertight at all (regardless of what's said) until checking out and sealing. He mentions that he's done this to all his reps without problems.

Since I do want to be able to swim and shower with it on it's vital that the watch doesn't get ruined for lack of a couple of hours of minor work to make sure. It's kind of nonsensical (even for a good rep) not to be able to put up with that!! I have already done this to the DSSD black and have done about 20 laps of the pool wearing it without any problems at all.

This was particularly highlighted when the new noob DSSD D-Blue turned up. Fab though it is and although it's billed as coping with 5 ATM out of the box on the website, when I put the back removal die on it I undid it with just hand pressure!! That's not going to stand 5 ATM or anything like it. Now, it may be that after regulation they just forgot to tighten up the back again (perhaps) but if I'd taken that at face value I would have a watch full of water and a ruined movement.

After a thorough inspection and greasing (including the two piece back faces to aid tightening) it's as tight as in can reasonably be for the duty intended. Since I now have the movement regulated to only +5 secs in 3 days I obviously don't want to remove/disturb the movement if not required, hence the question.

Although these watches are obviously never going to need an HE valve, some are described as having working ones, why I just don't know. It may be a simple question of continuing to make them look as authentic as poss, in which case the actual depth of the dummy valve used may need a deep hole in the case to accommodate it.

Just as a matter of interest, my DSSD black is an older model and does have the HE valve that you can push in from the front. However, as stated originally, when I took the back off the hole didn't go all the way through the case, thus proving the variability of the whole issue.

I'll ask Ryan at Intime to see if he can get the answer from the factory boys before taking the movement out.

[jmb]

Interesting on your HeV.  The only DSSD I've owned was a Eurotimes V5, from about the same time period as your black one, and the HeV hole was drilled all the way through.  Too bad the valve operated the opposite of how it should have and those needed to be epoxied shut.

[richard591]

Still can't get a definitive answer to this one, even from Intime. So, today the back comes off again and the movement out to inspect. Will post the results when I know. My DSSD D-Blue is a V6s, but I assume it will be the same for the just released V7, as the list of additional mods to that don't seem to alter anything to do with the HE valve.

[automatico]

I do not know anything about DSSD replicas but the older 1665/5514 type watches I got waaay back had working HEV made to oem specs that sealed up, but they leaked everywhere else without a gaskets-crystal-case tube-crown tune-up.  Bought a genuine HEV set and compared it to the replica and they were identical.  Have a replica 16600 SD and it has a 'dead end' HEV with no hole inside the case so there is no way it can leak...at the valve anyway.  Otoh, some have a hole drilled all the way through the case but the valve is just a plug pressed into the case from the outside.  They usually do not leak...usually.  You can always take the movement/dial out of the watch and take it diving to see what happens.

I always test my 'valuable' WR watches without the mvt/dial a couple times because I have had a few crystals blow out of the case because of leaks when the pressure was released on my souped up Bergeon 5555-98.  'Souped up' = a Schrader valve where the release valve used to be so I can pressurize the dome using an air tank.  It will easily stand 100 psi, maybe more but I do not go above 100.  100 psi = somewhere around 7atm iirc