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Rolex Sub No Date Pics


andresmuro

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Andres,

Josh's subs (date or no date) have very good rehaut, nice and deep. I hope I don't spoil your excitement about your new sub. The text "Oyster Perpetual" has the wrong font. I actually have been looking for a no date. When I saw Josh's, I was very excited. And then I looked closer, I saw the text. If you can buy Andrew's (Trusty) no date dial, you solve one problem. But Andrew might not sell a dial to you. Paul's (WO-Mart) has big hour market dots otherwise it's good to get. Another problem your watch has is it has the wrong bezel. The bezel teeth should be longer and pointier which I just learned that date and no date use different bezels. I don't know how to solve that one. But you (and I) can probably live with it.

gen no date:

179112-7739.jpg

gen date:

179112-7740.jpg

Edited by bklm1234
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The classic things to look for in a 14060 (no-date) are:

Shallower Rehaut than a 16610

NON-SEL End Links (Even the 2006-2007 model still has the 2 piece endlinks)

Holes in the lugs.

No etched crown on the crystal

The 14060 is a watch that never evolves. I think the only change this watch has ever seen is the move from Tritium to Luminova. I was just looking at genuines this past Satruday, both a 2002 Pre-Owned and a brand new one... No difference. I actually love this watch and if I ever do put down the cash for genuine Rolex, this will be it.

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I've thought about converting my TW Classic to a no-date with a gen dial. I like it. It has a more balanced look, IMO, without the date cyclops.

Criticisms of this one: Dial print too blunt. Rehaut ring is conical in shape rather than cylindrical.

Positive comments: Nice hands. Nice rehaut depth. CGs appear to only need minor work.

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The no-date Sub has different crown guards too. Straighter and less curvature on the tops.

Actually it's my favourite Sub... I prefer the dateless Subs for some reason. But all the reps of the 14060 (that I've seen) have been very inaccurate. Case, the OYSTER PERPETUAL font, pearl, crown guards, etc. all wrong. My father has a gen.

179569-7664.jpg

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Thanks for all the replies. When I go to the rolex website and compare my watch with the one on the site, It is hard for me to see any differences. Once I start looking at my watch under a magnifying glass, or the enlarged photos, then I can see that the bezel groves are longer, the font is slightly different, etc. I have to make an effort though. With the naked eye, I can't see much difference.

I must say that I am happy with my watch and I like it better than the classic sub, even if that one is a better replica. I hate the bubble over the date. One thing that I really dislike is the bracelet. It feels cheesy. I really like my invicta bracelet much better. I wish that replica rolex bracelets would feel a little more solid.

Thanks again,

Andres

the mystery of the replica world - they make 1:1 perfect Planet Oceans -

but an simple no date SUB is to hard to copy to perfection ....

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The classic things to look for in a 14060 (no-date) are:

Shallower Rehaut than a 16610

NON-SEL End Links (Even the 2006-2007 model still has the 2 piece endlinks)

Holes in the lugs.

No etched crown on the crystal

The 14060 is a watch that never evolves. I think the only change this watch has ever seen is the move from Tritium to Luminova. I was just looking at genuines this past Satruday, both a 2002 Pre-Owned and a brand new one... No difference. I actually love this watch and if I ever do put down the cash for genuine Rolex, this will be it.

Then Paul's no date is the best that you can get. The pics on the website show big marker dots while in reality they have the correct size (I bought the dial from Paul and it has the right size markers. I'll tell Paul to update his pics. I told him the same thing on his Seadweller which has the correct marker size but pics show big ones). It has a shallower rehaut than Josh's, correct font for "Oyster Perpectual", non-SELs. It doesn't have external lug holes and most likely have etched crown on the crystal.

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Genuine Sub bracelets feel cheezy too.

I talked to an AD the other day who told me that a few changes are in order for the Rolex subs and one of the changes is to make the band heavier and do away with the hollow links. He said the prices of the ss sub will jump again in february another 5 to 10 percent and be in the 5500 dollar range.

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I wanted to point out that the bezel teeth are longer on the gen, because the crystal and dial on the no-date Sub are smaller in diameter than the Date model.

I prefer the no-date myself, but haven't found a really good one. Where does one get a gen dial? sounds like it would be a few hundred bux.

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Wow, I love threads like this. You guys are so good at picking up the minute details... I've been taking lots of notes in the last few days as to what to look for...

Question for you guys:

Would you remove the date cyclops on a GMT master II?

I really don't like date bubbles as all the reflections on them drive me batty... But it's true to the original on the GMT. I'm very tempted to just burn this sucker off as it's my watch so why not make it the way I like it right?

So what do you guys think? Ditch it or not?

Thanks,

Ben

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Wow, I love threads like this. You guys are so good at picking up the minute details... I've been taking lots of notes in the last few days as to what to look for...

Question for you guys:

Would you remove the date cyclops on a GMT master II?

I really don't like date bubbles as all the reflections on them drive me batty... But it's true to the original on the GMT. I'm very tempted to just burn this sucker off as it's my watch so why not make it the way I like it right?

So what do you guys think? Ditch it or not?

Thanks,

Ben

I would leave it and get a watch without the cyclops--like a seadweller. How do u plan to take the cyclops off?

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