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My JF Daytona stopped running?


Salvatore

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Need help guys, just bought this Daytona from JF Factory.

Its brand spankin new!!!

took about 1 and a half to get so im super lazy to send it back, do you guys know what could have happened?

It did not fall nor did i hit it on anything... it was running when i went to bed, when i got up put it on and nothing.???

0ab4979be2cfbc324649c6e6092e3403.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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It is a good idea to always do a bit of research or ask for help BEFORE buying a rep. Nearly all reps contain either used or unserviced movements, which means they may arrive with problems. Worse, some reps have inherent problems that are either difficult/expensive to put right or must be returned to the seller for repairs (unless the seller recommends you use a local watchmaker).

In the case of a new rep that just stops running, it may contain an unserviced (ie, dirty) movement that simply requires a standard overhaul (disassembly, cleaning, oiling & adjustment), or it may contain a used movement that either needs an overhaul or had problems when it was installed in the case.

Things are even more complicated if your Daytona contains the infamous secs @ 6 7750 movement, which have a long history of inherent problems. The most common problem can be remedied by a full overhaul & application of graphite lubricant to the additional components that relocate the running seconds from the 7750's natural 9 o'clock position to the Rolex 1165xx's 6 o'clock position (see this thread - note that I am not providing this service - you will need to refer this to another watchmaker).

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I feel for you, but we have all been there. There are many threads on RWG describing exactly the same experience. It is the nature of the beast when you consider that, unlike genuine watches, most reps are 'manufactured' on someone's kitchen table or floor, amid the dust & crumbs of daily life. I am sometimes amazed that any of them work at all.

In any case, because of the poor quality (& general lack of proper QC), it is generally recommended that you factor in the cost of a professional overhaul for any rep that you expect to keep for a long time, need to rely on or plan to use in or near water.

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Even as I write this it seems like an overly moronic question, but since nobody else asked I'll ask anyway. Did you give it a good primary wind up when you got it, just to kick it off?

Not sure of the timing here, but from what you describe, sounds like you got it, put it on for a while with it going, but then went to bed some time later and left it. Maybe it just didn't have enough power reserve for the 8-10 hours or so.

I have 3 reps amongst my genuine's and in all cases I gave them a full wind up on reciept, then wore them continuously for several days, including through the night. None have ever stopped, although admittedly all are 2836 based movements. Don't know how good or bad the 7750 is.

Just in case you haven't tried the obvious (profuse apology if you have and this is offensive) try winding it up fully, then give it a sharp lateral shake/twist to kick the balance wheel in to action then wear continuously for a few days to check - just a thought and might work.

If not, then as Freddy said, sounds like bloody bad luck.

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Try these:

1)  Fully wind the watch to see if it works;

2)  Adjust the time to pass where it stopped, to see if it runs;

3)  If it does, then set it at 5 mins BEFORE that time it stops, it could be the hour hand interfering w/the running sec hand at six.  If that's the case, it's an easy fix (adjust both hands so they don't touch each other) any watchsmith in town can do it.

If it doesn't work, send it back to the TD you bought it from.

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Decase the watch and let it run out of the case for 24 hours. If it keeps running (out of the case), the problem may be due to the hands coming into contact with the underside of the crystal. If it stops out of the case, you will need to have it looked at/treated.

The problem with swapping 7750 movements is that, in addition to the dial/handset, you will also need to transplant the additional plate & 9 wheels that relocate the running seconds from 9-to-6 o'clock. & even if you do that, as explained previously, unless the movement is overhauled & treated with powdered graphite, because the secs @ 6 7750s are inherently unreliable with the additional gearing, the next 1 is likely to stop as well. There are a number of tech articles on RWG (the best by Ziggy & By-Tor) that detail the issue. Unfortunately, there are no easy answers or simple shortcuts that I am aware of. This is why many opt for 1 of the 1165xx Daytonas that have non-functional chronographs (ie, basic 3-hand movement with running secs @ 6).

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This particular 3836 23J movement has a faux timer hand and running second hand at 6, means the minute hand will never get to hit the sapphire crystal.  In other words, clearance is not a problem.

It's also impossible to swap in a 7750 due to case thickness and crown stem height.

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Don't touch anything when you do open it up, make sure no dust or hairs get in there, and don';t leave the watch with the back off for long, have a glass you can put over it whilst doing anything else, take a good quality photo or three moving the rotor a little at a time, so we can inspect the photos/movement to see if there's anything obvious, then we can advise further.

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Will take a detailed look at your photos after I zoom into them, but in the meantime, can you confirm this is a A7750 with fully functional chronograph?  If so, your chronograph reset hammer is not reset in your photos.

I will copy your photos, and label them to help you identify the areas of the movement I'm referring to my friend.

Couple of observations..

29884613152_69776763cd_b.jpg01 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

Below is how your reset hammer position should be..

 

29916612461_0f5aa66f03_b.jpg7750 reset hammer position by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

29371545223_c5caa91d9c_b.jpg02 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

Your minute counter jumper looks trapped under your balance, usually a result of balance being refitted following removal by inexperienced repairer.

29704370320_f1e0252dd6_b.jpgMinute Counter Jumper by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

Still looking at your photos, your movement claps and screws are still in place.  I will update you shortly.

29964251336_8327f0ffc9_b.jpg03 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

Here's A photo showing the correct position for your minute counter jumper.

29131357884_ca46977223_z.jpgSwiss ETA 7750 Movement by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

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Gents, I'm very proud of the time you're taking to guide our new member toward a repair on his watch. This is why this place ROCKS.

Thank you!

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