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16 hours ago, hwa said:

Otherwise, you'd have a blacked-out watch with some silver showing

A, I think we did discuss, after the fact, whether having a silver "ring" around the crystal might actually look kinda slick.  I suppose you could sand the ID of the bezel and see if you like it.  If not I could shave off a little to compensate for the paint thickness and repaint.  I'm not sure if it's because the paint is really "thick" but the margin between a too loose bezel and a cracked crystal is only a couple thousandths of an inch.

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Awesome black 1016 HWA

 

I have a few Rolex type acrylics sitting around . . perhaps let us know the ID / OD and see if something will work for you?

 

Or, install a sapphire? With the nylon gaskets, it might just work? I have a ‘parabolic’ sapphire for acrylic type cases . . It’s domed on the underside and flat on top with a nice edge bevel. Some nice distortion effects, if you like that sort of thing, which I do!

 

just a couple of ideas. 

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"...the margin between a too loose bezel and a cracked crystal is only a couple thousandths of an inch."

 

Anyone who presses metal bezels down over plastic crystals needs to take note of the above.  

 

 

Q&A

 

Q...If I am so damn smart, how would I do it?   :animal_rooster:

 

A...Mount the crystal on the case and measure the OD of the crystal at the base of the crystal with a precision digital caliper in two or three spots (the OD may be smaller higher up on the crystal).  Write it down. 

Next, measure the ID of the bezel in 2 or 3 spots.  Write it down.

Determine the difference.  The bezel being about .1mm smaller than the crystal is usually Ok, very much less and the crystal may crack.  One exception is if the crystal is a loose fit on the case neck.  When this happens it is hit or miss and you just have to develop a feel between 'go' and 'no go' when pressing the bezel down over the crystal.  If the crystal is too tight on the case neck and cracks when you press it down...you are in trouble.  Maybe try another brand of crystal because many aftmkt crystals are hit or miss. 

 

Q...Can you use a lubricant on the bezel to make it easier to press down?

A...If you feel it will help (usually on steel bezels, gold will stretch a little).

Q...What to use?

A...I use Dawn dish detergent, very little of it.

Q...Why use Dawn instead of silicone grease, Fomblin, Krytox etc?

A...Because Dawn dries out in a little while and almost disappears therefore providing no lubrication.  Silicone grease etc stays in its original condition and may allow the bezel to slide up or off...but it makes the bezel easier to remove next time around.

Q...Will water make the Dawn slick again?

A...Maybe, but I never had a problem with it.

Q...What do 'Pros' use?

A...Nothing afaik.

...but they ain't workin' on replicas.   :hammer:

 

 

Q...How do I reduce the OD of acrylic crystals or polish the top side?

A...I use a soft buffing wheel mounted on a 1750 RPM bench buffer with 'Crystal-Kleer' acrylic crystal polishing compound.

Dremel tools can turn too fast and burn crystals or make flat spots.  The buffing wheel I use is 6 inch by about 3/4 inch.

You can use a Dremel tool with polishing compound at low rpm as long as the buffing wheel is soft and you keep it moving.

 

For Crystal-Kleer, look at eBay item number  232784354549

The 'new' C-K is packaged differently.

It's good stuff.   :good:

 

 

 

"Or, install a sapphire? With the nylon gaskets, it might just work?"

 

Nylon (plastic) crystal gaskets are much more forgiving and do not crack as easily.

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well, maybe this is where I need to state the obvious:

 

For those of you who've worked with J, you know how great he is to work with.  Very accommodating, and super work.  For those of you who haven't had the chance, well, see above.

 

My inclination at the moment is to order another crystal and then take the following approach:

 

1. sand the ID of the bezel and see how it looks with a silver lining.  It's possible that it won't even be noticeable, because the top of the crystal stands proud of the top of the case neck.  It might just look like a bright crystal edge.

 

2. if it doesn't look great, take down the ID of the bezel and repaint.

 

In hindsight, I think either is preferable to taking down the OD of the crystal, which is asking a lot of a bit of acrylic.

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1...sand the ID of the bezel

2...take down the ID of the bezel and repaint

"In hindsight, I think either is preferable to taking down the OD of the crystal, which is asking a lot of a bit of acrylic."

 

If you are using a 1016 spec (#22) crystal the sidewall is fairly thick compared to a DJ, OPD etc. 

It should not take much.  The problem is removing the material evenly.

 

Fun fact:

I just now took a flat side acrylic crystal (from a rolex look-alike) and polished it from 30.35mm OD down to 30.30mm OD in 6 (six) minutes counting measuring it 5 times.  I do this quite often.

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I think the plan is going to be that HWA will sand the paint off the ID of the bezel and see how it looks.  If it looks like $hit then I'll reduce the ID a bit and repaint next time I have a rifle to do.

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