Sea-Dweller 126600

[bertieng]

Anyone knows if the new DW 126600/116660 are fitted with the 703/704 crown and the 7030 tube?

Or there are new specs for these later models?

[Tribal]

Yes, Same as usual.

[bertieng]

Thanks D.

Just sent you a PM, pls check when yo can. Cheers.

So the rep can also take the gen tube/crown then? Any needs of countersinking or drilling to fit the parts?

Edited September 12, 2018 by bertieng

[Tribal]

I haven't reinstalled the Rep Tube yet.
But I think it must be countersink.
On the Pic is the Rep Tube.

[Pombok]

I had to have my SD43 tapped and countersunk to accept a gen spec 7030 tube. The ARF stock tube is poorly glued in there and certainly not reliably water resistant. I used loctite blue on the tube thread plus all 5 gaskets to seal her up tight.

[Tribal]

I had to have my SD43 tapped and countersunk to accept a gen spec 7030 tube. The ARF stock tube is poorly glued in there and certainly not reliably water resistant. I used loctite blue on the tube thread plus all 5 gaskets to seal her up tight.

Do u have Pics.
I've done it on all my Rolexes in the past.
Has the Tubehole right dimensions or must it drilled too?

[Pombok]

Do u have Pics.
I've done it on all my Rolexes in the past.
Has the Tubehole right dimensions or must it drilled too?

Tripdog did the work for me:

[Tribal]

 

Thanks mate, do u know if the Tubehole must be drilled or only retapped?

Have you tried the Rep-crown on the generic Tube?

 

 

Anyone knows if the new DW 126600/116660 are fitted with the 703/704 crown and the 7030 tube?

Or there are new specs for these later models?

By the way DW?

We talk about ARF!

 

[Pombok]

 
Thanks mate, do u know if the Tubehole must be drilled or only retapped?
Have you tried the Rep-crown on the generic Tube?
 
 

By the way DW?We talk about ARF!
 

The case needs to be tapped and countersunk. The crown is stock ARF, I put it next to my gen 704 crown and man, there is no difference whatsoever. The DW in mine is still ARF stock, I don’t think I’ll overlay a gen DW. Now this watch is waterproof it’s finished for me.

Gen crystal, gen click springs, WSO gen spec tube, HE valve has been bonded shut from the inside with marine grade super glue. All 5 crown and tube gaskets in place. I’m finished :-)

[Tribal]

Yes, you don't understand.
Must the Tubehole drilled to right dimensions?

[Pombok]

Yes, you don't understand.
Must the Tubehole drilled to right dimensions?

No I think it is the right diameter already.

[bertieng]

Quote

 

Yes D, it was my typo. I did mean ARF, not DW, lol.

According to Pombok's info, if the tube hole has the right diameter already, why further tapping is needed? The threads on the case is different to that of the gen tube? If that's the case, drilling is then necessary.

If countersinking is needed, what is the drill size to be used?

What's the difference of a gen click spring to that on the rep?

To me, the biggest hiccup is to get access of the gen crystal, which is almost nowhere to be found...…..

 

[Tribal]

I will take a look at, when I install a gen Tube. To countersink the Tubehole you only need to measure the last dip of the Tube.
There must be enough space for the gasket.

[bertieng]

On ‎9‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 3:49 AM, Tribal said:

I will take a look at, when I install a gen Tube. To countersink the Tubehole you only need to measure the last dip of the Tube.
There must be enough space for the gasket.

Hi D, have you eventually installed the gen. 703 tube onto the ARF126600? Is it necessary to do the tapping for the installation?

[automatico]

"I used loctite blue on the tube thread plus all 5 gaskets to seal her up tight."

 

My 2 cents:

The most important gasket of all is the one between the case and case tube.  In order for it to function properly the case threads have to be clean and up to spec, the case has to be machined with a proper gasket seat, and the gaskets, case tube, and crown need to be oem spec.

 

The gaskets...two inside the case tube and one in the crown cap are the 'heroes' of the triplock system but in reality they are vastly under stressed under normal circumstances (above ground or in shallow water).  After all, the common 'twinlock' crown is rated to 100M and it has only one gasket in the tube and one in the crown cap.  No telling how deep they could really go.

The gasket on the outside of the case tube under the crown skirt is basically a dust seal to keep grit and moisture away from the threads.  They usually wear at a higher rate than the internal O ring gaskets because of the dirt.

Loctite is good at holding but not so good at sealing.  Sealing depends on the gasket.

 

I understand we are talking about replicas that may never go deeper than 10M but I have seen as many leaks between the case and case tube as anywhere else on genuine and replica watches...number two is cracked acrylic crystals and plastic sapphire crystal gaskets on genuine watches plus case back gaskets on replicas.   Many 'professional' watch repair shops do not even know (or care) that there is a small silver sealing washer that goes between 5.3mm and 6.0mm twinlock case tubes and cases.  I have found that most non authorized 'professionally' maintained rolex watches do not have these gaskets and will sometimes leak under water.  Gold case tubes/crowns have gold gaskets at this location.

'Non authorized' in this post = no parts account and not much specialized rolex knowledge.

 

What this all boils down to is the gasket and gasket seat between the case and case tube are very important.