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Franken genuine omega or maybe just mix and matching.?

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I have a near mint condition  vintage  omega seamaster case reference 166.008 which Is the typical 1960’s 35mm case that  came with the caliber 562 and with the quickset 565


Last week by pure chance someone in the next town  had offered to sell me a movement with dial but it it that came from a Seamaster 166.002 (which also came with same caliber) fora fair price!


I was about to pull the trigger and go for it, but then I thought if the dial would cause any issues coming from a different model even though it is the same 166.xxx series!?   I have noticed that some 562  dials are domed and others are flat causing problems for stem alignment and case closings! 


I know very little about omega technicality so if anyone has ever experimented changing the internals  omega to fit into a different model omega of same series ,I would appreciate your input? The seller said that he would hold it for me for a week as he will be on holidays for the next few days  Thanks!  🙏 


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Yikes!!!!!  The nature of this thread gives me nightmares!!  I don't want to be discouraging but this is one of the reasons I kept away from any genuine Omega projects!

As  much as I love the Omega brand for some of their iconic models,I do not like their inconsistency with how different sizes and shapes of dials exist for the same caliber for slightly different models.
You will find that although the 166.002 fits on the caliber 552, it is a different size and slightly different shape from the 166.010 even if they are from the same class of Seamasters!!  unlike Rolex where the 1002 1003 1007 etc all have the same shape and size dial for the caliber 1560.
You are in the same position as I am,  I bought a case kit for the 165.010 minus the dial,  I had a dial from a 165.001 thinning that it was going to be a direct fit for it.  Wrong !!!! Hundreds of dollars later I noticed that it was too big and did not fit in the case even though it is the same type for the caliber 552.  I have been looking for one for nearly 20 years as it is slightly smaller than those normally sold on ebay or on forums.   Whenever I have found one, sellers ask for overly ridiculous prices.  I should have bought one new at the time when the swatch group still sold omega parts.  I recall it was /$150 new just before they pulled the plug on parts policy.   It does not have the overlapped lip with the cutouts on the edges.  
I would not attempt it, but if you dont mind keeping it aside until the right one comes along, then I would just let it be as the prices of these parts will only go up, 
Sorry to be the messanger of bad news.  But at least you know where you stand!!! 
Good liuck!!!!
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  • 2 weeks later...

Horo is right.


Vintage Omega Rules:

Rule 1:

Nothing Fits.  The part might look right, but it usually won't fit.

Rule 2:

Many 'front loader' dress Seamasters have rusty movements.   I call them 'Rustmasters'.

Q...How do they get rusty?

A...The two piece crown wobbles, the gasket wears out, and water gets inside.

Rule 3:

Stay away from them unless they are complete, running, and oem spec...or cheap as dirt.


Something else...on many models the crystal helps hold the bezel on.  The crystals are 'mushroomed' at the top.  If that is not bad enough, most no longer have oem spec crystals (no 'shroom top) so the bezel falls off. 


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