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A Visually Perfect Rep is Possible


freddy333

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for me its not that other people know any better, because all the people i've met do not. its that i know better, in a way im hoping to fool my self by getting my watch to a point where i cant even tell. once ive done that then ive truly achieved a perfect replica. with my franken 5513 im getting close, just need to get the bracelet sorted.

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My point is that 1 in 10,000 people know watches like we know watches, and even far less know as much about reps and gens as we do.

True & this very point has been discussed ad nauseum here over the years. The only thing I will add is that it is not the man-on-the-street or even the average Rolex owner or watchmaker that you need to neurose over, but those WIS types (like us) who, believe it or not, are becoming more commonplace than you might imagine. Late last year, I ran into a pair of early 20-somethings in a parking lot, who recognized my 6536-1 as a 'Bond Sub' & struck up a conversation on the spot

0411-1.jpg

(My watch being modeled by a friend)

They began spouting off facts about early Sub history that I would never have imagined could possibly come from such young guys. While I would not call them WIS types, I was glad I was not wearing a rep, because they clearly knew enough to have called me out if my watch had not added up. :whistling:

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Also, & more importantly, the only difference between the case that comes with a $50 Canal Street rep & 1 of Phong's or NDT's $1,500 cases are the dimensions. The quality of steel is the same, the construction, in most cases, is done in the same factories that produce the cheap stuff &, from my experience, there is no more QC involved in making the $1,500 case than there is for the $50 rep. The only difference that I can see are the dimensions & the story that accompanies the item from the seller.

So my question is, who can make us a 6538 case at a reasonable price? :whistling:

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Thanks, Flex. The dial color is very cool, because it looks like rust under indoor light & varies from brown to that red you see in the pic above in some outdoor light. Most of the time it has gradients of brown.

I originally had a bleached gen insert, but my friend (in the pic, whose opinion, especially on matters of style, I value) thought the contrasting new/aftermarket insert (which is the correct type for the watch) looked best. So that is the 1 you see.

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"Also, & more importantly, the only difference between the case that comes with a $50 Canal Street rep & 1 of Phong's or NDT's $1,500 cases are the dimensions. The quality of steel is the same, the construction, in most cases, is done in the same factories that produce the cheap stuff &, from my experience, there is no more QC involved in making the $1,500 case than there is for the $50 rep. The only difference that I can see are the dimensions & the story that accompanies the item from the seller."

The statement above should be remembered by everyone in this wacky hobby.

My 'detailed' replicas are not nearly as good as what Stilty, Freddy, TJGR, JMB, Dizzy, LHOOQ, Nanuq etc, etc have for three reasons:

1...I can not afford it (#1 reason by far!).

2...The 85% or 90% accurate replica is good enough for me.

3...I do not know any watch snobs who can tell the difference...and I wear long sleeves a lot.

Really four reasons if you count that I am just not as good at it as the other guys.

But I have learned a few things:

1...Spend your $$ on things that can be seen from the outside of the watch, no one can see the insides.

Same rule can be applied to women. :animal_rooster:

2...Go with actual 'swiss made' movements if possible (a couple exceptions that come to mind are Seagull ST19 and 'freshened' A7750).

3...Try to at least make the watch water resistant for everyday wear...rain, washing hands etc.

4...Skip using genuine rolex movements (I learned this the hard way).

Why?

A...They cost too much.

B...No parts.

C...In the real world, a rolex powered replica is not 'worth' much more than an eta powered replica, especially to an 'outsider'.

'outsider' = average Gomer 'swiss replica' buyer.

D...The best compliment I ever got on a watch was "Hey, that's a nice fake!" It was my best genuine watch.

E...If you can get by with an eta, use an eta.

exceptions:

a...Do not cut dial feet off a high $$ genuine dial to put on an eta imho.

b...Using a Val 72/7733 etc from a 'no name' watch in a Daytona or Monte Carlo replica is Ok by me.

After all, an eta is 'justasgood'. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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