Tribal Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 This This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted April 25, 2007 Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 You can use rubber cement to attach the DW as it will create a thickness that will raise it up just enough. Use a toothpick and apply a thick bead to both parts, and let them dry. Then press them together and press FIRMLY and the parts will stick, no problem. The best part is that if you goof up you can just remove the parts, rub the cement off with your finger, and reapply. You can do this as many times as it takes to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted April 26, 2007 Report Share Posted April 26, 2007 Hey Tribal, That looks like the date disc from wholesaleoutlet990! Around $40. I hope it works out for you. My watchmaker uses contact or rubber cement like 14060 recommended. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsupilami Posted April 27, 2007 Report Share Posted April 27, 2007 you could mail a high res scan of the wheel to me. I have an idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 While we're on this subject, has anyone here used the Rolex datewheels from Otto Frei? I understand they are a more accurate albeit expensive alternative to the cheapie date overlays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tribal Posted April 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 You don`t understand my question..... Thats a new project..... Look at the datewheel, no wholesaleoutlet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Where, pray tell, did you get it from?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archibald Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 My first step would be to improve the printing dramatically. A couple days and I'll be able to give you an example of what printing on metal should look like.... On Edit--these individual pieces vary dramatically due to wear and tear and the process used to print them---this one looks like about a 6. IMO that's why an overlay is the way to go. Finishing the metal was the hardest part... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 Good basis for a project... But very frustrating all the same, as getting everything to line up correctly can be a nightmare... Hopefully you have better luck, Tribal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archibald Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 Good basis for a project... But very frustrating all the same, as getting everything to line up correctly can be a nightmare... Hopefully you have better luck, Tribal! Thanks for posting those pics, ubi--you can see the variation in the printing between the three examples posted in this thread. I'm fairly certain it would be possible to erase and reprint existing metal DW's for folks who need the numbers going in the "OEM" direction. If anone wants suggestions about how to prepare artwork and/or what kind of shop to contact about possible ways to improve the printing on their particular DW I might be able to help. Feel free to PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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