trance220 Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 I finally ordered my first "real" rep - the $218 ETA sub from Andrew. I hope that I read right where it is the same noobmariner that others have... Everything I'm reading says to take the movement and bracelet from it and combine it with the mbw/tw best case - then throw on genuine tube/crown, bezel insert/pearl and do a spring bar mod. I've ALSO read where the noob case will accept these mods just as easily (except springbars?) so I guess my real question is where does the mbw/tw best case come into play? What is different about it? I finally settled on the sub simply because it seems to have the least noticeable/ most easily correctable flaws of the reps that I like. It was a tough month trying to decide which rep to start with. Thanks to you guys there is a wealth of material to try to make an informed decision! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 MBW/TW cases have deeper rehaut and the crystals sit higher above the bezel/insert assembly. Say 1.8mm rehaut for the noob, 2.0mm for the gen and slightly greater for the mbw/tw case- 2.1mm or 2.2mm- whichever it is. MBW/TW bezel is easier to remove and therefore easier to install a gen insert. Of course, putting a gen insert on a noob and a gen crown and tube would still make a very nice watch. BKLM shows how to remove the noob bezel on his GMT tutorial in this section- excellent info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 ive got noobs and an MBW16610 franken with noob bracelet, noob dial, gen crown and tube etc etc.. It depends what you wanna spend. To build a MBW franken expect to spend $600+ not inc labour or major custom work If i was going to build another franken 16610 and didnt want to spend close to a grand to do it right, i would mod a noobmariner. As long as your noob has the straight rehault and not the conical rehaut then you have a great base to start with. The rehaut is the only thing that you cant fix on the case. Take your noobmariner, add a gen crown and tube, better bezel insert and better pearl.. you may need to replace the cyclops too.. i know on my noob the date mag isnt right at all. cost? about $350 give or take so about half the price. If you are concerned about the rehaut and want the best of the best franken rep then the MBW is the only option. Heres some pics of my Hardcore 16610 Noobmariner that i've been using as my practice mod watch. Its got lots done including lug holes drilled right through and gen 2mm springbars to look like a submariner from 1995 when they had both the lug holes and the solid end link bracelet Heavy wear and damage to case and bracelet.. Here are a few teaser pics of my MBW16610 i'm still working on.. i just got the gen tube countersunk, tapped and reinstalled yesterday... Noobmariner bracelet installed on MBW case Crown guards modded Noobmariner dial installed on ETA movement Gen Triplock crown and tube Dial is going to The Zigmeister soon for superlume Hope this helps Lonnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance220 Posted September 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 I dig your hardcore sub! Just so you know, I added your sub pics to my watch image folder yesterday while doing a search for ideas.... I like the well used look. I think it adds an air of authenticity to the watch. I think for someone like me (not rich) it also adds credibility to the fact that I could possibly own the watch in the first place My very first post was about a guy who came into my work in a beat up car, dressed badly while wearing a bling YM rolesium. It just didn't work. I think I'll stick with doing the genuine mods to the noob for now, depending on what the rehaut looks like when I get it. Later on I can always get the mbw case and keep modding. How hard is it to drill the 1.5 mm lug holes through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 thanks!! i also believe that a brand new sparkling rep looks fake no matter how good it is. It needs a little wear and a few scratches and dings to look authentic. Drilling the lug holes through was an exercise in patience. It was a lot of work becasue i didnt have a vice or anything like that. You need to drill the holes from the inside at an angle.. but you need to drill at the PROPER angle otherwise the drill will come out in the wrong spot. I'm actually going to post a tutorial soon about how to do this so i can show everyone the exact angle to drill at. Lonnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance220 Posted September 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 I can't wait to see the tutorial. I think I finally found my new hobby! I've always loved watches (obsessed really) and I've always loved working with my hands, so this is the perfect combination of the two. Why the thought of modding a watch never came to me before.. who knows? Can't wait to get to work on mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Here's mine. The recipe is as follows: - Original TW Best with centered lug holes (circa 2002) - Genuine Rolex bezel insert - Genuine Rolex crown and tube - Genuine Tudor hands - Noobmariner dial with genuine super luminova - Noobmariner date overlay - Noobmariner bracelet and case-back - Case work - Genuine Rolex spring bars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 You only need to install the Gen springbars on a case with the drilled lug holes. If you want to drill the lug holes through the case, or try to drill out a solid end link bracelet, then you better have the right tools and know a little about working with metal. Its not that simple unfortunatly. If you're not worried about the rehaut depth, then just mod your Noobmariner. Lonnie ...and do a spring bar mod. I've ALSO read where the noob case will accept these mods just as easily (except springbars?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephane Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Lonnie I really wonder why I didn't "create" a total heavy worn sub yet. I agree 100% with you: no scratches = fake. Can you please PM me and let me know your advices to create a completely destressed one ? Cheers Stephane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trance220 Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 I appreciate all of your replies and advice. I'll probably leave the lug holes alone. Since I received info here earlier that the watch serial # dates to 2004-2005, I'm guessing the current lug setup is correct. If anybody knows where I can get genuine Rolex parts to work with, please let me know. Also, L-Dizzle, what did you do to age your watch? If it's not a trade secret or anything Chieftang, your watch looks really sweet! How long did it take you to do all of your mod work? I'm interested in getting a super lume, just not sure of the cost and turn around time. Well see how the rehaut looks when it arrives.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiro Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 Here's mine. The recipe is as follows: - Original TW Best with centered lug holes (circa 2002) - Genuine Rolex bezel insert - Genuine Rolex crown and tube - Genuine Tudor hands - Noobmariner dial with genuine super luminova - Noobmariner date overlay - Noobmariner bracelet and case-back - Case work - Genuine Rolex spring bars Now, THAT is freaken awesome franken sub!!!!! Kudos to you my friend~! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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