Cartier Tortue Review

[spookycord]

I've been getting lots in inquiries about this watch, so I figure best way to answer them all is to just write up a little review of this little overlooked rep. (Sorry about the shoddy pics. I took these before knowing what a camera was. I'll update this with some better pics soon)

History:

Original Tortue 1912.

The Cartier Tortue is part of Cartier's exclusive Privee Collection. The Collection Privee was launched in the late 1990's to promote the rich watch making heritage of Louis Cartier and Maison Cartier. This collection reinterprets legendary models with contemporary innovation. Some of the complications found in this line include intertwined double C tourbillons, perpetual calendars, two-time zone watches, skeleton watches, and in the case of the gen of this model, a minute repeater.

There are 5 characteristics that distinguish watches from the Privee Collection:

The Tortue was originally created in 1912 and has served as the basis for countless watches in the 20th century.

Background

This Tortue Replica is actually a replication of two Tortue models mashed together; the Mens Tortue XL in Platinum and 18K White Gold, and the Tortue Minute Repeater.

+ =

Case:

The standard Tortue is available in platinum and 18k white gold, yellow gold, or rose gold, while the minute repeater comes in yellow or rose gold. The rep is obviously stainless steel. The minute repeater has a bolt on the left side of the case to set the repeater mechanism. The rep case more resembles the standard Tortue. Another big flaw is the caseback. I don't know what the caseback on the Minute Repeater is but the Tortue has a display caseback, showing the double C engraved bridges on the movement. The rep is a solid caseback hiding an asian auto movement modified for seconds at six. The crown is well replicated except the jewel is not a deep enough blue in direct light.

Dial:

The dial on the rep is nearly an exact copy of the minute repeater model. It has the signiture Paris stamp and guilloche dial with flower pattern. The markings and spacings all look pretty accurate around the dial. The hands are blue, but like most Cartier reps, a little too blue in the light. The only glaring flaw is that the rep is missing the metalic ring around the seconds dial. Here is a photo comparison to a gen standard Tortue XL.

GEN

REP

Buckle and Strap:

The 'C' deployant buckle and black alligator strap adorn all watches in the Privee collection. The rep makers have done a valiant job replicating this feature. Obviously the strap is a cheap faux gator, and the clasp is far from perfect (notice the neck length on the hinge), but barely noticeable without side by side comparison.

GEN VS REP

Movement:

In the late 19th century, Cartier relied on great watchmakers like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantine, Bredillard, and Dragonneau to supply their movements. In 1907 Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jeager for exclusive production of movement with any complication. This partnership created the first Cartier Tortue in 1912. Today Cartier makes and assembles it's watches in it's own facility in Switzerland, but still partners with some of the great watchmakers of the world. The Gen Tortue comes in three different movements, all developed through partnership with other world class watchmakers.

The calibre 43 MC made by Paiget.

The calibre 9601 MC made by Jaeger-LaCoultre.

The calibre 9401 MC Minute Repeater made by Renaud et Papi. And of course the rep movement which is a chinese manual wind, but I can't identify it.

By the way this chinese movement was totally filthy when I removed the 8 screws and openned the caseback. I give it 2 years tops.

REP

The Price:

Well, the Mens Tortue XL in Platinum/18kWG retails for over $20K. The 18k Minute Repeater module retails for an outrageous $190K!!! On the other hand, the SS Tortue Replica retails for $00.1K or $100 USD.

Editorial Comments:

I first heard about this rep from seanf, a mod over on RWI. I remember I was in the market of a dress watch and was searching around for some ideas. My basic criteria was that it had to be thin to fit under a dress shirt, leather banded, not gold, non chrono, and under 42mm. Although it is not the most accurate rep (some would consider it a fantasy watch) it fit the bill perfectly. I contacted Ruby because she has always been very good at finding reps off the beaten path, and she came through like she always has for me.

It should be noted that there IS a rep of the standard Mens Tortue XL which should be more accurate but I haven't seen the rep yet. I opted to not get it just because I like to see the seconds hand move. It might as well be a quartz if I can't see that.

After wearing PAMs, HBBs, UPOs and IWC CD's it did seem a bit diminutive at first. But as a dress watch, it's function follows it's form in this department. It is very elegant and could be worn by either a man or a woman. I will update this post with the exact dimensions but it's around 40mm or less across.

With regards to it's accuracy; well I appreciate an accurate rep like most of us on this forum. If you look at my collection, my tastes lean toward the reps that come pretty close out of the box. With this watch though, I really don't care.

For one, it's an 'occasion' watch. I only wear it with a suit, which is usually only once a month. Second, no one but the most anal WIS would even know what this watch is, as it's part of Cartier's Privee Collection. I've walked into my local Cartier Store and inquired on the Tortue and they had to pull catalogs and search for what I was looking for, and naturally couldn't tell me any details on the watch. And the Minute Repeater model? Only 25 made anyway. So bottom line, if anyone were to try to call me out, I'd look them dead in the face and say "Do I look like I'm dumb enough to spend $190,000 on a frickin watch?" Of course they'd probably say 'Yes, you do look that dumb' and then well, whatever...

The point is, certain watches in my collection are so-called project watches where you almost end up spending more than the gen to get that thing modded exactly right (and then still aren't satisfied), and certain watches in my collection, like this Cartier Tortue, fulfill a functional need. In my case, the Cartier Tortue is the perfect stainless steal, leather banded, non chrono, elegant dress watch. Thanks for reading.

Some Parting Shots:

[Victoria]

WOW! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Spooky, you may think I dashed through your post, but I assure you I gobbled up each word. What treats we've been getting recently -- Seadweller4000, then TeeJay, now you!

Guess what? Sold. I'm guessing you got it from WBK, so I'll be PMing him about this.

190k for a Cartier. OMG. Are they kidding?

[spookycord]

Hey thanks for the comment. This is my first review ever. So, actually got it from Ruby. I'm sure Stan can source it though.

[spookycord]

updated review with a movement section

[Victoria]

You know, Spooky, I know what with the GTG and President's Day things have been naturally slow on RWG, but I think your review really was good. Deserves a lot more replies than just 3...

(Same for TeeJay's two threads)

[rodwc]

I really think that these Cartier watches are very underrated

on rep forums.

Great review also.

[dluddy]

Very informative review Spooky. THanks for sharing

[ajoesmith]

Great review, thank you

I think the movement is a Chinese DG 1800.

It is on Ofrei's site at $19

[Ylfig]

Love that watch, now I have to see if I like this one or the XL one better.

Thanks for a great review.

[seanf]

Reading this review reminded me of how much I love this watch, so I decided to wear it today. One additional follow-up to spooky's review. Of the two Tortues I own, I had to fix the deployment clasp on both. It was an easy fix-- I just had to bend the connecting tang a little bit with needlenose pliers. But if I didn't do this, the watch wouldn't have closed at all.

Also, if you buy this watch, be aware that it will be nigh impossible to source a new leather band with a single deployment style clasp unless you're willing to fork over quite a bit o' cash. The problem is that the design of a single-deployment band is unique (one short band with a completely covered endpiece, one long band with no holes). I did ask HKTan if he could do a custom, and he said yes, but for about $100. Didn't feel right about spending more for the band than I did for the watch. And truthfully, the band isn't awful. Not great by any means, but slightly above average as far as rep "leather" straps go.

[yellomen]

Thanx for an excellent review! I like that you wrote a review of a different watch... not the most raved about watch, but still a classic beauty for a very fair price.