Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
  • Current Donation Goals

Movement polishing?


Guest Sql_pl

Recommended Posts

I really love my swiss 6497 but the engravings look kind of rough when compared to gen.

So here is a question - do you think it is possible to find a way to polish bridges to go from this look:

pamshow.gif

To this gen look?

006copy.jpg

Any input would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see any problem sanding the bridges smoother and then rebrushing them as long as it was done nice and level so it looks right and doesn't interfere with the screwing down of the bridge. In other words, if you sand too much I would wonder if it would be possible to overtighten something. Other than that I would think you could do it though the engraving will still be a bit too thick and sloppy but I bet the new brideg finish would be an improvement for sure...

I really love my swiss 6497 but the engravings look kind of rough when compared to gen.

So here is a question - do you think it is possible to find a way to polish bridges to go from this look:

pamshow.gif

To this gen look?

006copy.jpg

Any input would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw someone at RG do this and while it still does not look like the gen, it does look much closer.

Oh, interesting. I will go and try to find this but if you have a link at hand I'd appreciate it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No it is not the engraving. At least not only the engraving. I have one here at hand and I can clearly see that plates between all engraved letters are not "clean" - there is a number of different brushings, lines etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really love my swiss 6497 but the engravings look kind of rough when compared to gen.

So here is a question - do you think it is possible to find a way to polish bridges to go from this look:

pamshow.gif

As an aside, this picture is *not* a Swiss movement. Not sure if that is your "Swiss" movement or not. For your sake, I hope not.

I agree with what was said above. Polishing the bridges would make them look slightly better, I'd assume, but polishing doesn't address all the issues (like the worse/different engraving).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you attempt it you are doing so to make yourself happier (which is the best reason) but not particularly closer to gen. On that particular movement the long plate is cut much more deeply among other things. And T's comments are right on. Completely different engraving and finish. Here is another pic to give you some sense:

PartialBackwithCrownguard.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an aside, this picture is *not* a Swiss movement. Not sure if that is your "Swiss" movement or not. For your sake, I hope not.

I agree with what was said above. Polishing the bridges would make them look slightly better, I'd assume, but polishing doesn't address all the issues (like the worse/different engraving).

No, I have just borrowed these pics to show the difference.

My 6497 is swiss - it was the first swiss 6497 with correct bridge shape and swan neck available - no dagger though. All eta stamps etc.

It came in my "ultimate" 111 from Angus in 2005.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I mentioned the engraving depth and sloppyness before too but Tourby is right. I forgot about the rhodium. It would look TERRIBLE after refinishing if you didn't plate it after. And you would maybe having a hard time finding someone to do it. Maybe a jewelry store who dips wedding rings for ongoing maintainance could do those bridges for you depending on the "tank" they use and how it is shaped. Ask around and see.

not possible

1. the material of genuine Unitas and Asia Unitas bridges are not absolut same quality. It

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be tempted to swap out the movement for one of the newer Asian Hi Beat 6497-2 - these have the correct regulator , flared spoke balance wheel and a far superior finish / engraving on the bridges

These are worth sanding with a "final stage " metal preparation glass paper as you can achieve a 90%+ to gen like high polish/brushed finish. I will post some pics when I have finished

These are some quick shots of the bridges as they come - you can see the quality of the engraving is really quite good.

P1020446.jpg

P1020445.jpg

Best

FGD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have also always obsessed with this!!!! Wondering if it's possible for even a slight improvement. I had thought about sending my swiss, ultimate 127 off to Rex to be a guinee pig as his shop has finishing and plating services.

Can't wait to see FGD's progress

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree, not an easy feat.

The one feature that pops up on genuine E-series 6497 mov't finish is the sunburst brushed finish, flaring out of centre jewel on the main bridge.

This would be close to imposible to achieve by hand.

In rep E-series 6497 mov't world this has only been accomplished by machine brushing process on the recent Asian 6497-2 hi-beat mov'ts that FGD mentioned above, as well as last batch of (now extinct) Swiss ETA 6497-1 E-series mov'ts.

I have 3 Pam reps I installed the latest E-series 6497-1 mov't in back when they were available, so can attest to this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thinks it looks pretty terrible. Look a the left corner, the letters are almost cone.

I do agree that if you are careful enough it can look better than before.

The only problem would probably be the painting of the little words again.

Here is an in process pic that someone else has done. I would say it is looking pretty good.

DSCN0858.jpg

DPP_0001.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first part is fairly easy. What you are doing is really called lapping, basically sanding but using a very very flat surface under the sanding paper to get a very flat even finish.

The re-plating will be tougher as you'll be plating two different surfaces, one brass exposed by the lapping process, two the old plating (what ever it is) inside the old engraving. This may or may not be especially successful.

The starbust pattern is done with a machine finisher, I'm sure you could set up a rig to do that using a basic lathe or similar and a rotating sander.. but it'll be a bit tough to get right.

I hope you persist with this. I think movement re-finishing could be a great addition to the skills here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up