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Has anyone had issues with the mid-link spring depress mechanism for the resizing of Slevin/Ingy/GST bracelets?


DemonSlayer

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I understand that the rep makers have replicated the IWC bracelet adjustment system pretty well. However I've also read that some people have had issues with the pins not staying in place (ie, the spring inside the mid-links can fail to latch onto the pins, possibly because they've been damaged during the re-sizing process). This results in the risk of the pins being easily removed by a gentle push. Some of these members have loctite'd the pins in to ensure they stay in place.

Are there any preventitive measures we can take to ensure the depressing spring mechanism can stay working properly for as long as possible?

When inserting a pin back in, should the circular button be pressed down at all times, and released only when the pin is all the way in sitting in the correct position?

How does this IWC bracelet re-sizing system work, is it some sort of latch attaching itself to the carved out middle of the pins?

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It doesn't matter. There is a notch in the middle of the pin that click into place. You need only push in once and it will stay in until the pin pushes past it. The pin "picks" the pusher and when it is past the pusher snaps back out. I have had the GST rep, the Slevin rep, and now the gen AT with this system and the reps are really just like the gen other than maybe some machining tolerances. Non-perm Loctite is great. If you have a slightly loose one just LT that one and it will fill in the gaps. No worries...

This is the only pic I have of my AT that shows it pretty well:

AT1.jpg

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Thanks Robbie. Does the pusher have a tiny bit of metal, like a hook attached to it which holds the pin in place by hooking onto the pin's notch?

Some people have reported that a pin can slide all the way through, in one end and out the other without it clicking into place, regardless whether the pusher is depressed or not. This suggests that whatever holds these pins in place, is either broken off or it is no longer sticking out to sufficiently hook onto the pin. In that case, I see no other alternative but to use non-permanent loctite.

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Not really a hook really, just a cylinder that has its own groove in the middle so when it is pushed the groove sits perfectly around the post of the link bar so it can be pushed through. You should NOT be able to push it through without the cylinder being depressed unless those are defective in some way. The tolerances are VERY tight so even if the machining is a hair off it won't work right I'm sure. Hope that helps!

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Thanks Andy. I had a little bit of trouble with some of the links when adjusting my slevin. The cyclinder, or whatever it is that holds the pins in place, on a couple of the links its not holding the pins properly, when pushed with the tool they come out. So I think the cyclinder or catch is not working properly, therefore some loctite is in order. In the meantime, I might give the bracelet a ultrasonic treatment to see if it does anything.

Thank you Robbie and Andy, much appreciated.

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  • 5 months later...

I realize this is an older thread...but i recently changed over the ss bracelet to the rubber on my Slevin...and incurred some problems...as Robbie stated the tolerences of the pin is tight...i had great difficulty with the lug pin...it was slightly bent and needed to be straightened/bent in order to fit thru the bracelet tube/sleeve and the lug holes...long story/short -- the pin broke...

does anyone know where to source a replacement lug pin?...i have no idea of the size/name/etc of these pins...

thanks...R

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I realize this is an older thread...but i recently changed over the ss bracelet to the rubber on my Slevin...and incurred some problems...as Robbie stated the tolerences of the pin is tight...i had great difficulty with the lug pin...it was slightly bent and needed to be straightened/bent in order to fit thru the bracelet tube/sleeve and the lug holes...long story/short -- the pin broke...

does anyone know where to source a replacement lug pin?...i have no idea of the size/name/etc of these pins...

thanks...R

Hi Hackr!

Contacting dealers and describing what you want - even if you don't know what it is called - is always a good first idea. Otherwise, you should be able to hire a machining shop to make a new pin for you. All you have to do is bring the other one (the intact one) along with you and show the guys at the shop. It should be really easy and cheap for them to make a couple of pins to you.

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