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Ulysse Nardin - Blue Seal : 356-68LE-3


JoeyDee

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a2f8du.jpg

Hey Folks!

I been doing some reading and research and I know that a DOPE rep is not available yet for this gorgeous watch! I just wanted to share this watch with you and open up a new discussion and get your professional input on this watch! Here are some pics and please fellas, if anyone knows of rep out there please drop me a link on here or PM me :)

Thanks folks!

-Joey

Here's the specs from the Ulysse Nardin website!

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2894 ebauche Shundi - because it is DOPE, like Joey says...;)

All kidding aside, see the other UN thread as I layed out how UN uses the ebauches. The 2894 might be the coolest auto chrono ever actually since it is really a 2892 and built with a modular architecture. Interestingly enough, UN uses a 2892 base technically, certs it, then builds the chrono with mods and finishes everything by hand instead of starting with the pre-built 2894 pre-finished and having to "deconstruct it".

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It is funny that RobbieG writes about the 2892 with the DD chrono module as a good thing as often people in the gen world bash the absolute hell out of it. I have never had a problem with any of mine in either of my Monacos or my Speedy reduced, so I don't disagree with the statement by R.G., but they don't get much love elsewhere.

I believe the AP ROO uses a similar setup however, correct me if I am wrong. I was thinking it still had a DD chrono module with a different movement, maybe a JLC?

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I'm working on a whole thread about it actually, but ETA bashing comes from ignorance. It has a repuation of being low end because the fanciest brands don't use them. The funny thing is, the fancy brands chose not to use them back in the day because of beat rate and availability mostly. Piguet and Lemania rose to the occasion to stay in business and gave them what they needed to survive. ETA only had a few calibers when everyone "had" to choose a supplier. People don't realize what a comitment it is when you make watches. When you launch a design and it catches you have to count on that movement being there. Once they made those original choices that was it. And at the time there was a big debate between whether a more robust, less friction 18k/21.6k movement was better requiring more skill to regulate but could last many lifetimes, or a 28.8k with easy regulation and superior rate results but with a shorter service interval and more potential risk of torque/friction damage. A lot of the high end companies chose the old school and stuck with Lemania and Piguet and the others chose the Rolex way and chose ETA or JLC. But ETA had less Calibers and was newer so JLC retained the old school glory but with a high beat rate. They didn't earn all of that though. Some and they are amazing to be sure. But not all.

That said, ETA is world class in every way. It is just a stupid misconception. There is nothing better about a JLC 889 ebauche compared to a 2892 other than the highest level of finish available is only used by JLC them selves on their own watches. Companies don't buy finish spec - at least the real ones don't - they finish them themselves. That is the funny part really. When you see how say (to use an example other than UN) IWC finishes ETA, there is no difference between that and its JLC counterpart. None. Period. Not to mention that the 2892 for example is a WAY more complete and useful ebauche than its JLC counterpart. Period. It isn't even a debate. And robustness? Failure rates? Again, NO contest. Not slagging JLC, but the fact that they and Piguet get props over ETA is absurd.

Let's use another example - The Piguet 1285 (derivative of the 1185) that Omega uses in the PO Chrono, etc. F'ing GARBAGE. A 21.6k movement hopped up to 28.8k with skinny bridges and fragile parts and metal shavings are flying out of the thing in 6 months. And yet noone ever says Piguet is anything but perfect.

Meanwhile, take a look at how Breitling decorates and regulates a 2824 and you will blow a load. They turn it into a work of art and it is a great little movement available cheap. I'll complete the rant in a more orderly fashion later, but suffice it to say I can't stand unfounded brand loyalty based on ignorance. It is never ending how many ETA bashers have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.

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RobbieG -

Agreed. I is funny to see how many people prop up Rolex because they have an "in-house" movement. While I respect them for that ability, Seiko also has in-house movements and they don't get as much respect. I have only had trouble with one ETA movement, in an Omega, and they resolved that quickly and were apologetic. I wonder if a large part of the ETA hate stems from them being a "Swatch" brand. While I have full respect for pretty much all brands in the swatch group, from Swatch to Omega and up, I wonder if they would not gather more respect had they picked a name for the group that was not affiliated with watches that look like Cracker Jack toys.

I was under the impression however that part of the "tightening down" if you will at ETA was that they were going to begin to do more of the decoration and finishing of their customer movements than previously. Essentially they were watching the revenue brought in by say Soprod or Sellita for decorating and adjusting ETA movements and decided to cut out the middle man. Does this mean in the future a manufacturer such as Breitling will provide their finishing specs to ETA and receive movements ready to install, or have I been misinformed on the whole fiasco.

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Well JLC is a Richmont brand, hence the mud slinging between them and Lemania/Piguet which are Breguet Group (Swatch) and ETA being independent of Breguet but still Swatch of course. That is the part that really baffles me. That Swatch doesn't do a better job of propping up the brand via letting people know that they also make Piguet and Lemania and they worship them. In other words, how are you pikers slagging Swatch and then all up on a high horse about how great Lemania is.

I mean don't get me wrong, I don't blindly follow ETA as uniformly amazing, I'm just trying to give everyone credit. He*l, as far as that goes the A7750 should get credit too. The thing is great as long as it has the dust blown out and some f'n oil in it...

Look I believe all of them have their own standouts. The 2892 is amazing and such a complete ebauche system from ETA, the 2310/20 is the best column wheel chrono ever (OK, the Lange 951 is right there too of course!), The Piguet 1185 is amazing and iconic and slim, and on and on. I just don't think there is any real pecking order. Just like watch brands and how Patek and Lange and AP and VC fans all want to say their fav is the best and they cite all these reasons and so on. But they always leave something out. The bottom line is they couldn't tell the difference. Hardly any of them.

Here is my proposed test for the small minds we are speaking about here: They pick whoever they think is the best high end manufactory - any one will do. The I'll pick one movement from each ebauche manufactory, TAKE THE ROTOR and any tell tale markings off, then have the company finish the movement off by exactly the same standard they do for anything (chamfered bridges, perlage, Cotes de Geneve, circular graning on barrels, solarization on wheels, etc.) and I'll bet 90% any amount that they couldn't tell the ETA from the JLC or Piguet or Lemania. Nor could they tell if we let them take it apart and look at each level with a loupe. They are only going to see high quality parts and world class finish and could't pick what they say is superior for all the money in Switzerland. No doubt in my mind.

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Sorry, I hit the wrong button so to anyone reading, I finished what I was writing in the last thread.

And yes Shundi, I missed what you said earlier but I think the 2894 is superior to the 7750 as well. It is just more interesting and affords so many more options. Plus it has the cooler looking Tricompax as default and visually I like the seconds at 3 as it is easier to read and different. A nice change of pace as it seems pretty much every under ten grand chrono has the 7750 with the standard layout.

It is cool too that it doesn't have to be a chrono if it doesn't want to. I once saw a watch (forget what it was now) that only had seconds at three and date at 6 with no chrono. Different and cool as such. Oh and none of the 7750 quirks either - That weird winding sound and feel, grinding rotor, etc. It has that luxurious 2892 "invisible" winding touch and no rotor noise to speak of. In short, I like that it is a 2892 really with different functions which I feel is the best ETA (modern I mean) has ever made hands down. Don't forget the 2892 also comes in a perpetual calendar (2891). B)

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RobbieG -

Panerai is also a Richemont group company, and they have done quite well building on ETA movements, and yet they turn around and bash them. It reminds me of BMW owners pissing on GM owners as having inferior equipment even though the BMW had a GM transmission in it. If you call someone else out for having crap, you need to make sure you are not also buying crap in your car or on your wrist.

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Joey,

Don't worry...she's single (from what I've read).

Robbie- I agree with just about everything you're saying re ETA vs others... I know people that have had great luck with the PO chrono and a few that have had issues ranging from minor to...very major.

Also- we've got to skype at some point next week and discuss that Venus thing regarding the Portos.... looking like a no go, unfortunately, but a sweet little Venus chrono regardless :)

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Joey, for claification though I believe the watch Hont is involved in somehow is not your rose gold grail watch (the 2009 Blue Seal Maxi Marine Chronograph), but rather last year's Maxi Marine Diver Limited Edition. This watch is a non-chrono and not in rose gold (although one version did come in that metal as a gen). As with all Nardin limited's, it does has a blue theme though. It just isn't called Blue Wave or Blue Seal, but rather Blue Surf. They change it up each year. FYI - it came in an 1846 piece limited version in steel and 500 in rose gold. Hont supposedly has the steel gen and has allegedly it to a factory for replication.

The MMD has been the stuff of legend lately. Phoband and I were joking about it at the last GTG in that three factions/dealers all claim to have submitted MMD's for 1:1's. Hopefully this will be the time when all the rep world will be telling the truth (maybe hell is freezing over because of global climate changes?) and we will get three different world class MMD's. But in the meantime, this is supposedly the one Hont is doing...

bluesurf.jpg

Also Shundi is correct on the timing. Typically it takes anywhere from 8 months to a year for a super 1:1 rep to be released from the time of initial tear down. I believe the current UN super rep took around 9 months or so. I'm not sure when the Hont alleged MMD entered the process but not more than a couple months ago if I'm not mistaken.

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Also, did someone color correct of otherwise over-shop those last Blue Seal pics or what? Overkill for sure. The very first image in the thread is closer to what it really looks like and not that electrified blue. Curious where that came from originally and if it was a civilian pic or if some magazine did it on purpose as an attention getter?

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Hey Robbie.

Thanks dude - Im in contact with Hon, I sent him an email and deciding which one to get now...

What do you suggest? I really want the Blue Surf, but I'm not sure I can wait any longer ;) hahaha please suggest something.

THanks.

-Joey

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Again, I think you are mistaken as you don't have a choice. He is not doing the Blue Seal you want, he is doing the Blue Surf I mentioned ONLY. You better clarify that and be sure you don't have a language barrier or confusion with the titles as you just said it wrong again. You don't want the Blue Surf, your grail is the Blue Seal. Send him a picture. If the watch I mentioned which is the Blue Surf in fact does get repped as a 1:1 by one of our key factories, I'm sure it will be nice.

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