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what adhesive?


jdkno

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One of the lume markers on my UPO came off. What type of adhesive should I use to re-glue it to the dial?

It looks like the dial has two holes in it to accept feet from the lume marker so I assume I should just try to get whatever the recomended adhesive is into those holes only to keep the dial clean right?

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Loctie or gorilla glue.

Gorilla Glue?

Should I dab it in with a toothpick?

How long do you think I should let it sit before I re-case the dial/movement? I know the fumes from superglue can do some damage until it is completely dry.

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Gorilla glue expands while drying so I would use the tiniest amunt and use use a toothpick.

I would allow it to sit for a couple of orders and watch carefully to make sure excess glue does not appear on the dial at any point.

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There is only one glue I use, GS Hypo cement.

Gorilla glue expands and is a very bad idea.

Anything else will damage the dial if you get any residue on it. NEVER use cyno instant glue anywhere near a watch, it will ruin it. Hypo cement will not damage the dial if some gets on it, and is the reason I use it exclusively.

It does set up quickly so you have to work fast, put some of the glue down on a piece of paper, pick up a drop of glue with a tooth pick and apply it to the dial MARKER, do NOT apply the glue to the lume, immediatly place the lume in the marker and press it down. Make sure the lume is right side up when you install it.

Do not try and pick up the lume with tweezers or anything but rodico, once you have the lume in place, use a clean toothpick to press it home.

Hypo cement is available from any watch supply house.

RG

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Thanks for the info Rob.

I will get some GS Hypo ASAP.

One other question, the lume did not come out of the marker. The entire marker came off of the dial. I am sure you are familiar with the UPO dial but its the 5o'clock marker the metal piece came loose lume and all.

I noticed on the dial there are two holes to accept the legs on the back of the marker, should I put the GS Hypo on the two holes of the dial then place the marker on the dial or should put the GS on the legs of the marker and then put the marker on the dial?

It seems that if I put the GS on the dial there would be less chance of a mess if I accidently drop the marker while trying to get it onto the dial???

Lastly I got the caseback and everything apart last night. I hit a road block when it came to getting the movement holder screws off. I did not have a screwdriver small enough. DOes anyone know what size screwdriver I will need to get the movement retaining screws out.

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Sorry, I misread your original post, thought it was the lume that fell out...

Same process applies as above, apply the glue to the dial not the marker.

You need high quality watchmaker's screwdrivers, Jewellers screwdrivers sold at Home Depot etc are junk, invest in a quality watchmaker's set or you risk damage to the watch...

Good luck.

RG

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I would think the safest way to do this repair is to remove the dial, set the marker, then glue from behind. Its tricky to get the pegs and holes lined up, and if you have glue applied to the front of the dial it WILL end up where you don't want it.

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Now I don't know jack about this 'un but wot andreww said makes sence to me. That would require removing the hands however. Don't put the glue in the holes if you're not removing the dial from the MVT. You don't want tp push some thru and possibily gum up the works.

Col.

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Those drivers look like the same ones I got from Offshore. the're a fine driver. A little longer than the Bergeon drivers which is a good thing IMO.

When you order replacement blades just order the gen Bergeon ones. They fit perfectly.

Col.

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Is this the GS Hypo Cement you are talking about? It says GS Crystal Cement?? PN FB-2202 http://www.ofrei.com/page382.html#2666

I was also going to order the High-Quality French Made Screw Driver Set of 5 PN FB-1240 http://www.ofrei.com/page238.html

That should do the trick right

That is the correct glue and those screwdrivers will work just fine for you.

@ the other suggestions...

Considering that the OP has no experience or tooling, asking him to remove the hands, dial, clean out the holes for the glue, install and support the marker as he flips the dial over to glue it from the back, then make sure the hour wheel etc is ok and not out of place before re-installing the dial and the hands, etc etc...purchace all the required tooling to do that work etc, the simple solution for the experience level is to glue the marker to the dial face without having to take the whole works apart.

I have glued many markers in this fashion and never had a problem, if the OP doesn't feel qualified or doesn't think he can control the drop of glue then he should let someone else do the work for him...

Simple solution to the problem that is taylored to the experience and skill level of the one asking the question.

RG

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You are 100% correct. If putting the marker on the dial required removing the hands and dial and all of that I would certianly be sending it out to someone with both the skill and tools to do the job. I have steady hands and have done a fair amount of model car/plane building so I think I can handle gluing a marker to a dial without too big of a problem. Worst case I mess up the dial or the marker somehow which means I will just give myself an excuse to purchase the gen dial sooner.

Thanks for all of your help guys. I will post back my results when the job is done.

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"I have steady hands and have done a fair amount of model car/plane building so I think I can handle gluing a marker to a dial without too big of a problem."

GS Hypo cement is just about the same thing as model cement...Testors etc.

GS Hypo etc makes "cobwebs" when you handle it so be careful it does not leave a string on the dial.

Loctite is made to "travel" after application and may get on the dial.

It only sets up where there is no air.

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Update:

Results: Job done and everything is looking good again, sorry no pics as my battery was dead.

I got the screwdrivers and GS Hypo from Ofrei. Took the caseback off, unscrewed the movement retainer ring, used the smallest screwdriver to release the stem, got the movement out and the loose marker out of the case. Ran into a slight problem as once I pulled the stem out the movement started running. I tried to put the stem back in to hack the seconds hand but it did not feel like it wanted to go in so rather than risk it I let it run during the repair. automatico was right the GS is just like model cement and spiderwebs. I put some GS on a piece of wax paper and used a toothpick to put the glue on the dial. I usea a pair of surgical tweezers to hold and place the marker on the dial and got it into position. I then used the toothpick to gently push the marker onto the dial.

There was a bit of gs on the dial so I used the toothpick very carefully to get it off. putting it back together was the reverse but I didn't realize how the retainer ring held the movement in until I already had 2 of the 3 screwed down. When I was working on the third one I realized that it was still pretty loose. By luck when I was putting the third tab on it went under the metal lip where it is supposed to, then I realized that the two I put on first were not under the lip. I went back and redid the original 2 to get the tabs under the lip and the job was done.

I guess now I will see how the marker holds up. I am planning on swapping in a gen dial anyways so as long as the marker holds for a little while I will be ok.

Watchdog....I have always admired your work, and always thought working on watches has to be hard but after dealing with the very few small parts and the little bit of finess and carefulness it took to put the marker back on I have a new found respect for what you do every day.

On a side note I did damage one of my springbars. The plunger part on one side is stuck in the tube. Does anyone know where I can obtain a new springbar? They are not the standard ones the ends are bent forward rather than straight. If anyone has a line on them please let me know.

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Thanks for the update and glad it all worked out.

On the spring bars, the reason the one side is stuck is because it's bent, common issue and a result of the bracelet end link holes and the case lug holes not lining up. You should be able to pull on the plunger and it should spring free.

Good job, great to DIY and get a feel for watchmaking and what is involved.

RG

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