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After a collection of mostly Omega, Breitling, and Pam's I finally decided to pick up a Rolex as the dark rhodium dial YM caught my eye. Picked one up M2M and the bracelet is about 1- 2 links too short. Right now I have the quick adjust piece folded out and it's in its outermost of the 3 detents in the clasp. Its wearable but much tighter than I'm used to. It had 4 links on the 6 side and 6 on the 12 side. I moved one from the 12 to the 6 side which marginally helped by keeping the fliplock side from digging in a bit. I am assuming with the taper of the band I need to locate what would be the #5 link on the 6 side, is that correct? It feels as though when I moved the #6 link from the 12 side over to the #5 position on the 6 side that it is ever so slightly wider than the bottom of the #4 link.

So I have a PAM 569 with the 7750. Purchased from a member over on repgeek. Beautiful watch, haven't taken it off in over a week. Anyways I noticed that the date sits just a touch high in the window. No biggie watch is still stunning. Then I noticed that the markers at 12 line up just a touch off from the bezel marker at 12. The bezel is not off at all. The marker at 45 lines up perfect with the stem. The more I look at it if the dial was rotated a slight bit to the right (clockwise) and the movement stayed where it is now that should put the date in perfect alignment and align the 12 markers with the bezel just about perfect. Is rotating the dial upon the movement a fraction even possible.

I have a pair of Randolph Engineering aviators in bound to me now. Classic American mil. Spec aviators with the bayonet arms. Can't wait to give them a go.

Is the Pro 2 you bought gen or rep? I thought I had an entire SOSF bracelet I would have sent you the links you need but I just looked through my box and realized I have the bracelet but the end links are missing. If the 147a end link version you have would fit a Skyland avenger I might be interested in purchasing so that you can hunt down the bracelet you need.

As the title states, anyone happen to know the case number for the Aqua Terra 41.5mm? Just received my blue dial version and would like to see what if any gen parts I can locate.

I know the first edition of the blue Skyfall AT was pretty smurfed out on the blue color compared to gen. While looking at the new Spectre 300 I happened to see most of the dealers have a myota based blue AT. From the photos the myota version blue seems to be a lot closer to gen. Looking for anyone who has seen it in the flesh. Trying to decide between the AT and the spectre 300, other than my 5002 every watch I own are in the sport range so I'm kind of hoping the blue AT is close enough to gen.

Funny while browsing KW's site their blue Aqua Terra looks like the color is correct vs tge surf blue I see on all the other dealers sites. Wondering if it really is better or if it's the same surf blue as everyone else and KW just edits his photos to make it look more gen like.

Wonder why they are pricing this one a considerable bit cheaper than the standard 300? Also is Kuvarsit is a TD???

No offense in any way but complaining about the nato strap is like complaining about the bubble wrap they use to package them. From both dealers I have seen they are selling the watch on the steel bracelet and pretty much just tossing tge nato into the deal. Even with the proper engravings I'm sure the rep nato would probably be crap anyways. The main thing I can't tell on this version or the regular 300 is if they used the sandwich dial construction or not.

I am pretty sure supermirrors has this model shown, comes with the steel bracelet and the nato.

I currently have the following Ray Ban gunmetal polarized cockpits. Similar to traditional aviators but not as much of a tear drop on the lenses. By far the most comfortable pair of glasses I own. With the metal frame and adjustable nose pads you can get just about any fit you want. With these I don't really feel them but I can play a round of golf or go riding an ATM and they never move. Maui Jim freight trains, pilot style look just a bit more beefy looking with the more squared off bottom and the thicker arms. Gatorz polarized magnums. All aluminum anodized black frame, double 5 barrel hinges on each side. The all aluminum frame makes for easy adjustment and the wider arms cut out light from the sides but the lenses do wrap around enough so your perif. vision is not affected. Wiley X Romer II's and Saints. Flip between these two when I'm going to be hard on my glasses. They have been dropped, kicked, caked with mud, and been impacted with flying debris and still look like new. I just recently picked up a pair of Persol 2803 in Havana with the brown polarized lense . Best lenses I have seen and I've been through almost every brand over the years. Plastic frame is a bit of a pain to fit right on my face and the weighr plus the double hinge on the arm does not make flipping them up on top your head a very secure way of wearing them indoors but I do like them a lot.

I LOVE the gen! However no matter how close they get on this one I doubt I would buy and wear a rep of a watch that sells for $25,000.00 USD.

Looking to get a blacksteel clasp to put on a Pro Diver III strap. I can't find one with any of the dealers, closest I find is the SS clasp that comes with the Pro Diver II strap. Would that clasp also work on the diver III strap? I could always get tge SS version and send it our to get a PVD coating on it.

Something of note, I do know you can order replacement lenses direct from Ray Ban. I have a pair of polarized cockpits I bought from an AD about 5 years ago that I still wear. Dropped them one time flat on the lenses and busted one scratched the other pretty bad. Called Ray Ban and ordered a new set of polarized lenses for I think $60 or so. So if the rep frame is built like gen you could buy gen lenses and have a pair of Franken glasses. My uncle is an opthomologist and always in in either Revo or Rayban. He says even though lenses block UV etc. The quality of the lenses is where the big difference is at Compare looking through a pair of good lenses vs. a pair of polarized UV filter glasses from the likes of Foster Grant, big difference and I would think the Foster grants are of better quality lenses than reps are. Right now I have the Ray Ban Cockpits, Maui Jim Freight Trains, Gatorz polarized Magnums, Wiley x Saints, and Wiley X Romer ll's. Sunglasses and watches are my 2 vices like a woman's purses and shoes

There is another option. Open the case back and take the crown off the watch. Use a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the tube. Put the crown back on and see if the threads engage. If the first time you try it still does not work just try again and eventually it will work. You just can't squeeze the tube too much at once as you risk over tightening it.

Well off the bat, the orange bezel is the non ceramic version and the black bezebezel is the ceramic version.

Well add me to the list that thought the deal was worth not passing up. I ordered the 500m Sea Ram blue bezel with blue MOP dial. I liked the way the blue MOP dial kind of looked like the surface of the water. Not to poke fun but shipping cost me a whopping $8.00.

I think they are in the $500-$600 range from what I have been able to find. The pictures I have been finding really have me itching to find one. Some of them even have lume ceramic bezels like a fifty fathom.

Resistor. You rock!!!!! That's it. The red circle looked like an S or 8 to me lol.

Nice! I have the 007 which is the same just black dial/bezel. Sometimes it's on rubber and other times on a solid presidential bracelet and it is great either way. I also have an orange monster and an old Seiko world timer. For the money Seiko makes a great watch.

Steinhart was my first guess too but no that is not it. The red S or 8 that was on the dial was pretty big. If you look at a rolex sub it went from the top of the cornet all the way down probably halfway between where the hand stack is and where it says oyster perpetual.

A suggestion that may solve your problem. Take the tube out and clean up the hole in the case real good. Once cleaned thread the hole in the case with a tap. The threads in the case and the threads on the tube will not match however it will create more surface area and more of a mechanical bond if you will for the JB Weld. Right now the JB is locking around the threads on the tube bit the case is just a smooth surface. If you thread it with a coarse thread pattern the JB will lock into the threads on the case as well creating a much stronger bond.

Looks like they added a new blue one that looks not as surf blue as the last one however it does not look as reflective as the gen blue

Lol I thought about asking but didn't.

Saw it on a guys wrist in the wild couldn't get a pic so all I have is a description. Was hoping maybe someone could she'd some light. Looked like a submariner homage however from every angle I saw it appeared to have pretty damn good AR. Black shiny bezel with the numbering like a sub. Black Dial with the older rolex style markers meaning no metal ring around them. Right below the 12 marker instead of the rolex symbol it had what appeared to be a red "8" or possibly an "S" with writing though the middle that made it look like an s as the writing closed off the open ends. Oyster style bracelet but a butterfly clasp vs a standard clasp. I tried searching for the red 8 or S symbol but am coming up dry.