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Had thought about the tape but if I managed to break both pins I don't know how well tape would hold up. I wonder if super glue would be better than GS? I know I would have to leave it sit for a few days so the chemical won't fog up the glass. However I did use GS to stick one of the indicies back on my UPO dial and it is still holding strong. I looked at Jules Borel and they have a new dial for like $30 but I am not sure if it is the orange one. It says "Y Dial SKXA45". I doubt that is a yellow dial as that was a very limited run. The only other dial they list is Black.

Yeah my first thought was that I broke the stem. Unscrewed it expecting for it to fall out in my hand but nope it's still in one piece it's the dial that is messed up

Well I sheared off both feet. I can rotate the dial around the cannon with no problem. I guess I need to pull the dial and have a look. If both feet are sheared off you think I could just use some GS hypo to put the dial back into place?

Yeah I had seen that. I guess what I am asking is does it attach to the ring with feet or tabs of some sort. Obviously if my dial is rotating then if the dial had feet or tabs then somehow they broke. I am just trying to get an idea before I go pulling the hands off.

If so what method does Seiko use to hold the dial to the movement? Been using my monster as my tool watch, took it out if the case to put it on and noticed the dial has rotated. Pulled it all out and had a look but I don't see any broken feet or anything. Tried to line it all back up and put it back in the case but once on the wrist and moving it will rotate again. Hopefully someone can tell me how to fix this.

Well after looking at it again I do have the bezel notch. I was looking at the 5 o'clock area and could not find it. It appears that my notch is at the 11 o'clock instead of 5. I guess I will just live with it for the time being. If I remove the bezel will the crystal come off as well? As for the SL crown, mine does not move when the lever is flipped. Once the lever is opened the crown stays in the exact position it was in when the lever was closed. I have to pull the crown away from the case in order to set the time. I do not however have to pull the crown to wind it so I don't know what's going on with it??

Yeah it's not as easy to see on the white dial from a distance as the middle of the barttons sort of blends with the white dial. On the black however it is easily noticed because on the gen you can see the dark dial between the battons. I would not say you could tell from a mike away but from across a table it would be easily spotted.

It looks like a different version to me. The original batton dial had a one piece batton design. If you go back through Josh's site you can see the earlier version. Looking at this dial it looks more correct as the battons apear to be two pieces just like the gen. I have not had enough time nor do I know enough about the gen to say which is a better overall watch though. I know I was looking at the last version of the batton dial that was offered but the one piece battons killed the deal for me as you could spot that from a mile away. Maybe someone more familiar will chime in with some more info.

Yeah I figured it would be too late b. I guess what I was wondering is would it be possible to use a top plate as a bottom plate. You could fill the cutouts with lume which would give you alot of lime without it having to bubble up from the plate like the 177 bottom plate does. I realize that something would have to be used as a bottom plate still to keep the Lume in but I am just thinking out loud at this point. If you could get me the thickness of the plates next time you have one apart I would greatly appreciate it.

Just wondering would you happen to know what the thickness of the top plate and bottom plate is?

I just recently recieved my 111j but I do not see the bezel removal notch on it. Also when I release the lever the crown does not move at all. It stays exactly where it was when the lever was closed. There is also no ability to hack the movement in my 111, when you pull the crown the seconds hand just keeps ticking. Starting to wonder if my 111J is even the new one.

Well I got it re sized without scratching it lol I checked the screws on the back and some were loose. I did not have time to take it all apart so I just tightened them down for now. I am ordering a rubber strap so when that comes I will pull the bracelet apart and loctite all the screws. I did run into one problem. When I went to unscrew the post at the 12o'clock lug it just kept turning without coming out. I put pressure on the otherside and it pushed out. Checking to see if the problem was the screw or the threads in the case I tried the screw from the 6o'clock lug and it worked just fine. Thinking I had a screwed up screw I decided to try it in the 6 position and it worked like it should. Needless to say I am confused but atleast it is together and I put blue loctite on them to make sure they stay put. Hope it won't be too hard to get them loose. Don't they make springbars that look like the screws? I used Break Free CLP on the bracelet and it seems to have done the job. It is pretty smooth and I cleaned it up with soapy water so the chemical shouldn't hurt me. I love the smell of gun oil by the way haha. Overall I am happy with it, the CG sits tight to the case and the lever only protrudes a hair at the pin area. I take it a thinner o ring at the crown would take care of this. Lume on the dial is pretty good, the hands not so good but it will work for now till I decide to do a re-lume.

Only oil I have at the house right now is like oil you would use on firearms. Think that would work?

Thanks just wound it a little more and sure enough it stopped. For the lug screws, I will use the screwdriver but don't they make springbars that look like the screws and if so would it be a good idea to get some and replace the screws? My bracelet does have screws on the backside so I will check them out to make sure they are tight. Once tight will I need to worry about them coming loose again? Should I put lock tight on them all?

I just recieved my first PAM' one of the new 111J's and had a few questions before I screwed something up. This is my first hand wind so when winding it is there any way to tell that it is wound all the way? I would hate to break it by over winding. Are the springbars really springbars that just look like screws or are they really screws that I will need to unscrew in order to remove the bracelet? I ordered it with the SS bracelet and I need to re-size it. It looks like screws rather than pins is that correct or is it pins that just look like screws? Don't want to try the wrong thing and scratch something. Thanks

Yeah I had to check their site. Seeing as I don't visit their site or keep up on their new releases I wasn't sure if maybe Rolex did release a Pepsi an Coke version.

Looking at Rolex's site it would seem that they are both fantasy versions that do not have a gen counterpart.

Josh is back up and running. I looked at one of the pics and it looks like the "R" lines up at 9 on the rehaut. Wonder if the fixed it or if it is still off on the 3 and 12??

Anyone know what the bezel removing notch at 5:00 is all about? Does the gen have this? Also what reason would one have to remove the bezel often enough to make the notch needed?

I don't really like ROlex's all that much but I have been looking at the pics of the GMT 50th Aniv. and I have to admit seeing the wrist shots is kind of making me change my mind. That said I am still not 100% convinced I will like it once I have it, while browsing Josh's site I came across this one http://www.1-pc8838.com/00rlgs01101-anni-black-asia-2813-hand-p-9240.html $128 and free shipping has me thinking about pulling the trigger. So movement aside is there any visual difference between this version and the A 2836 version and the swiss 2836 version? Are the more expensive ones any more accurate or better built. From my eye they seem like they all are built ont he same case/bracelet/dial with the movement being the only difference. Any help would be appreciated.

I looked back at the pics on Josh's site of the 196, I still don't see the quick release. Is it a different quick release than whats on the 236??

Thanks for putting up with me guys. I have been looking at every post I can find on here about the new daylights and have been looking at all of the dealer pics, and any gen pics I can find as well trying to get an understanding of all of this. The hex crown, I get what you are talking about but from looking at pics I can't see it, so I guess my thinking is if I can't see it in pics then it would only be a tell if someone had it in their hands and pulled the crown out to get a closer look. Is that correct? The RB on the tip of the crown, so the gen does not have this but the rep does. Looking at the pics it seems as though you can see the RB on the side of the lever so it is something that can be seen. Would it be possible to source a different lever that does not have the RB in it? Quick release, the gen does not have it but the rep does. I was looking at the pics on Josh's site, are we talking about the quick release button on the back of the lugs like on the 236? I see the button in the photos of the 236 but not on the back of the 196. Here is my problem, almost all of my watches are sports watches and almost all are completely brushed. I am looking for something with a bit more "bling" to it without being over the top. I love the polished bezel and polished parts of the steel bracelet on the 196. So while on the metal bracelet it has the "bling" I can also put it on a rubber strap for a more tonned down sporty look. About the only other option would be to go for a 162 but I have read that the subdial color is off, and for all I know it has all of the same problems as the 196.

Pete hope you will forgive my ignorance here lol. What is the hex crown and when you say RB CG lever are you refering to how the lever does not sit flush with the crown guard or something else? I guess I am more worried about the datewheel position as that can't be fixed really. The crown and CG parts should be able to be modded.

Thanks Pete, is it safe to assume that when you say fractionally we are talking about something that is hard to pick up on unless you are doing a side by side or really know what you are looking for?

Trying to catch up here. The new 196h, when you guys talk about the datewheel being off what are we talking about? Is the date window too close to the center or too far out? Also as for being off, what are we talking about 1mm, 3mm? A noticable difference without holding it next to or comparing to a pic of a gen?