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Great review!!! The side by sides do really help as already mentioned. A few questions if I may. What do the quick pushers near th lugs acctualy do? How do you set the date with the recessed pusher? How is the rep lume, I know no where near the gen but any better than typical rep? I take it all of the new daylights 163, 196, 236, and 250 should all be pretty much even in terms of accuracy. I am realy liking the panda dial of the 163.

When you say the gen 12 hour hand moves in 1 hour incriments, does that mean that at 1:59 the hour hand is dead on 1 then when it turns 2:00 the hour hand jumps from 1 to 2. Reason I ask is if that is the way the gen operates then whenever the hour hand sits between numbers it would obviously be a fake.

One question for BT or anyone else who may know. When you say that the IHS moves like the gen where the GMT hand moves in 1 hour incriments. Do you mean the gen GMT hand clicks from 1 to 2 to 3 and so on? Or does it sweep from 1 to 2 and so on like a traditional hour hand?

Anyone know what too look out for to spot reps from the real deal? I am looking at a pair of Ray Ban Cockpit sunglasses. I found a seller on the bay selling them for like $75 compared to the $130 - $150 range I found online. If anyone would like to have a look it is auction # 190410546847

No not yet, I am out of town till after the 4th and the only access to the net is my phone. When I get back and have a computer again i will order one.

Palifender.... Thanks for the help but I need the 12, 9, 6 layout with date at 3. I think I will just post a WTB here and see how it plays out for a week or so. If all else fails I will try cousins.

Every time I search including "7750" brings up 40 or so pages. I need to get a replacement 7750 anyone know the best place to look? I am just looking for a high beat Asian 7750 not ETA.

Anyone know how the gen lock functions? IOW do you have to be pressing the button when you want to rotate the bezel or do you push the bottom down, it stays down, you rotate bezel to desired position and then somehow make the lock come back up?

Well I managed to get the casback open once I got home and had the right tools. So as an update I nudged the PR hand to the top, waited a min or so and as you noted dleerious it settled back down a bit. So I nudged it again to the top and waited a few seconds before I started putting it all back together. Somehow it must have settled again because as you can see in the below pic it is ever so slightly below the top line but it is close enough for me to not want to open the case up and do it again. While I had her open I also greased the O ring on the crown and caseback and added the slightest dab of lithium grease to the rotor bearings to quiet it down a bit. Here is the pic, sorry its quick and dirty but it gets the point across. This was the "lite" version as I was not sure how well I would like it so I bought the cheaper version and figured I could always have the crystal Double AR'ed by chief afterwards. It appears to have single AR on it even thought it does not appear so in the pics. Now to the bad. While I had the case opened I noticed that as I unscrewed the crown from the tube there were gears moving during the unscrewing which I do not believe is normal. The next thing I noticed was there were no screws and tabs holding the movement to the spacer ring and the watch. I can see the holes for the screws and the notches in the spacer ring but no screws holding it in. It does not move surprisingly the movement was in the spacer so tight I removed them as a whole and the spacer fit the case so tight I had to almost pry it all out. Last thing I noticed which I may contact the dealer about. The movement, spacer, and case fit so tight there is no room for any of it to shift. If you look at the outer track of my dial, starting about 1:30 the track starts to pull away from the outside of the case. It looks like at about 8:45 it starts to get tight again. Is that par for the course or do you guys think I should see about getting a replacement dial?

Well I hit a brick wall. I can't get the caseback off. My usual wad of duct tape won't even budge it and I don't have any other tools to use at the office with me so I guess this will turn into a weekend project.

I got the deployant to work last night, seems it does take a good bit of force to get the audible click so that's good. I am really liking the Gorilla strap, I e-mailed to see if they had any ready to ship. If so I am good if not I guess I will prepare myself for the long wait. I was hoping I could find something cheap for the interm while I wait for the Gorilla but finding something that will work with the deployant is proving next to impossible. Thanks for the heads up on the PR fix. I am getting ready to tear into it right now. Wish me luck as I have completed far more difficult and managed to screw up far simpler so who knows.

I just recieved my 5002. So far I like it alot and I am sure once I fix a few things I will like it alot better. Hopefully someone could provide a bit of info for me. It seems as though the lug width is 22mm comparing it to my other watch with 22mm lugs. Is that correct or are my eyes playing tricks? Anyone find a decent pilot strap that is readily available for a decent price? It seems as though my deployant does not lock. The only think holding the strap closed really is the tail end of the strap going through the keepers. Is there any way to fix this? For the PR do you just nudge the hand to the full mark with like a toothpick or something?

I have been looking for info with no luck so I figured I would ask the question here. I had heard the gen has a jumping hour hand. Does anyone know if the gen hour hand jumps while setting only or while running? In other words if the gen jumps from 1 to 2 while running then if the rep hour hand was between 1 and 2 it would be pretty easy to spot. More so than the non functional button or the clown feet logo.

I have been looking for info with no luck so I figured I would ask the question here. I had heard the gen has a jumping hour hand. Does anyone know if the gen hour hand jumps while setting only or while running? In other words if the gen jumps from 1 to 2 while running then if the rep hour hand was between 1 and 2 it would be pretty easy to spot. More so than the non functional button or the clown feet logo.

I have seen the Swiss clone and the "genuine" Swiss version but I have not seen the $125 21j version. Where does that come from??

Am I correct in assuming the area of the case where the push button is does not open to the inside of the case where the movement is?

Where can I find watches for $50-$55 delivered???

http://www.1-pc8838.com/iwbp10102-pilot-lite-ssle-black-black-asia-auto-p-5150.html what about the Big Pilot "lite" ??

I have a small credit with one of our dealers, I was going to hang onto it until something new came out but I have decided to use it. I am thinking I would like to get a budget rep that I can use as a beater watch. I would like to stay under $200 including shipping. So far the only thing I have come across are the IWC VCJ, the Choppard GTXL 21j for $108 and a few of the Sinn watches. Anyone have anything I missed or any input on the ones above? I have searched and read as much info as I have found but wouldn't mind some honest input as it applies to my situation. ETA I was just browsing and noticed there are a decent ammount of IWC pilot series with 21j asian movements that are in the $160 range anyone know anything about them?

What is the lug size on this? I have seen both 22mm and 21mm listed as the size.

Chief... That's what I was trying to say. I never meant to imply that the ar was any different but the darker dial watch will always have more contrast so to speak. I was at the AD last night so I checked out the gen. On both the black and white dial you can clearly see the batons as two pieces from 2 foot or so away. Also comparing the gen white vs the gen black there is a mote obvious contrast on the black it just seems to jump out of the case more so than the white. I know looking for perfection in a rep is futile but after looking at pics of the rep vs pics of the gen I would say the rep dial could be called out very quickly from a few feet away. I have seen peple talk about the large 30 and 60 on the 2009 version SA but I think that dial would be harder to call out than the baton dial.

That's what I was saying maxman. For example the SOSF, if you look at the Asian light version with no ar in the black or blue compared to the Swiss version of the same with ar there is a night and day difference. On the other hand if you compare the white dial with ar vs the white dial without the differenci is not that obvious. I compared my Swiss white dial SOSF to my cousin's black gen his dial just pops and the gen ar is not that much better than the rep.

Not that it does not look good with the white dial but I have found that the darker the dial the more the ar shows. Dark dials under an ar crystal just seem to pop more if that makes sense.

Yeah I figured it would be less obvious on the white. I think the black dial is the only one where a black stripe would be a help. So the white dial would be better but the ar on the black probably looks alot better.

As we all know the rep baton dial uses 1 large baton vs. the two part baton like the gen. How noticable is this? For example when looking at it as if you were checking the time is it noticable that it is one pice vs. 2? If anyone owns a white dial, does the white somewhat hide the fact that it is one big piece? Wondering if it would be possible to paint the gap on the batons with black paint or something to sorto of hide the fact that it is one big piece??