Welcome to RWG - The original

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 01/21/2016 in all areas

  1. Messing with the Big Gonzo while the rest of the plane slept.
  2. 8 likes
  3. And so it happens that I was sitting down having coffee two nights back with a local friend and watch enthusiast, and who is also a member on both RWI and RWG. The conversation turned, after some perfunctory and bland comparisons of Rolex vs Panerai, Hublot vs AP, to the atmosphere of RWG. He cast me a snide glance and mentioned that RWG was where forum members go to retire, or after they become banned or ousted from RWI. We are, according to my loquacious pal, "too peaceful", and "too quiet", compared to the relatively rambunctious crowd at RWI, the conflicts between their moderators and wayward members, and the perpetual entertainment found at its brig section, where incarcerated members are bashed to a pulpy mess, revived, and the actions repeated to the amusement of the bystanders.. Ok I digress, but only a little. I told him, in the local lingo, that RWG is the home of extraordinary gentlemen. When I think of outstanding gentlemen that make up the community, stellar ones like @astonjenks, @panerai153, @Nanuq etc come to mind. Of course there are a lot more, but these are the ones I interact frequently with, sometimes over random salmon and moose pictures. The members here exude an unmistakable aura of poise, and many a times, money and watches are exchanged among us privately on the basis of mere unadorned words with not even a picture. And the watches and money invariably both arrive without fail, with unerring reliability. In the volatile world of superficial acquaintances and relationships, I do consider this level of trustworthiness among friends extraordinary, and superlatively valuable. Yes, you do not frequently witness exciting drama here, or the fuss and flurry of our neighbor forum, but here, we watch, listen and learn, more than shoot off our mouths like fireworks on the 4th of July. The quiet word can sometimes achieve more than the shouting and the banging on tables. We do not indulge in much vilification of members, or cast disparaging remarks on others for the slightest infractions, but we allow members to learn, and become contributors to the forums in their own rights. Yes we could be the sedentary river compared with the tumultuous torrents of exchange, and yes, we could be the placid lake with hardly any ripples. But hey, I am certain that RWG is what we like our own homes to be, metaphorically speaking. For those who crave the occasional action, it is always easy to hop out to the disco next door, where I concede to have the more exciting atmosphere. Knowledge, information and friendships are gained and forged in the undercurrents here, in steady and refined manners. We are not a pugnacious bunch, no, not even the outwardly tough but a softie at heart @nikki6 who is in a long term relationship with his infamous AP Marcus. Our strength lies in our dignity, and our ability to interact with one another with class and courtesy. Let us understand and embrace who we are, and the place that we have collectively crafted. I am also heartened to see stellar new members like @tango258 from some obscure, remote Island (which he has given up trying to sell me) join us, and of course, veteran dragons like migrating from next door, like @paristoto and @swdivad. We also have the skillful masters with the magic hands, like @SSTEEL, @misiekped, @Grimlocktime. They don't talk much, but they have saved a multitude of watches from death and breathed life and beautified several more, in their own ways. We have also the legendary collectors like @Daytona1984, @Waiwaiet. They like to let their collection speak for them. The people who matter, they are all here. You just need to know who to approach and what to ask. We are in a way like a uptown mall where the goods available are not openly on display. You just need to know where to look. There is of course the obligatory knitting lounge where pink yarns are handed out for the new guys. So Knitting circle? Yes maybe, but its a tight circle for sure. Home is where you come to have a tequila while looking at the sunset, while nibbling on slices of roast moose. (sorry for the moose reference, some member has been spamming me with moose pictures, alternatively as food and as cuddly animals, its disconcerting). So yes, kick off the shoes, and enjoy the pastures here. Take your time to explore and immerse yourself, and you will find delight and solace in the company of extraordinary gentlemen, and the wells of knowledge here. And welcome home.
  4. 7 likes
  5. 7 likes
  6. 7 likes
  7. 7 likes
  8. Hi guys, I mentioned awhile back that I was embarking on a new project. Well, its now ready for public criticism. I had my heart set on building a 3,6,9 PCG sub from the early '60's. Having first acquired a cal 1530 with the appropriate butterfly rotor, I looked for an appropriate case. Luckily (although $$ buys one a lot of luck), I found a genuine 1962 PCG case and decided that an explorer dial is the direction i wanted to go. The watch came complete, but had a more recent cal 1530 and a very bad aftermarket dial. Sadly, the mid case was poorly polished and the bevels were all but destroyed. This is what it looked like when I received it. Truly horrific: I can live with an unpolished case that has worn lugs, but I cannot live with a case that was recently polished poorly. As such, I proceeded to give the mid-case a complete make-over. While a NOS looking case may not be appropriate for a 1962 watch, it’s not uncommon to have the case-refreshed by professionals who know what they are doing. If a case is going to be polished, I’d rather have one done properly that one done poorly. After several hours of surgery and taking steps to ensure the CG’s were minimally touched, here is the end result on the mid-case. I think it’s much more acceptable now: For the dial. There was only one choice. Obviously he cannot be mentioned, but I decided I wanted a 3,6,9 “silvery” gilt dial, exclamation. There are several different varieties of 5512/5513 explorer dials, but I think the one I chose suits the build. The hands are still a work in progress. While genuine, I am still seeking a set of flat hands. The hands I’m using now were a set I had lying around. It’s doesn’t look terrible, but I think flat hands would really finish off the project nicely. Genuine cal 1530: Caseback: Most 5513’s in the early ’60’s used 5512 stamped casebacks. It came with the mid-case and despite the poor polishing, the case was in stellar condition. Not corrosion whatsoever. Complete specs: Genuine ’62 5513 mid-case, caseback Gen cal 1530 Gen Tropic 19 superdome gen 5513 hands custom redial gen 700 twin-lock crown and tube Gen bezel asembly gen Uber-font “Long-5” insert (the only “kissing 50” long 5 i have ever seen) Gen 7206 rivet bracelet with 80 endlinks Just waiting to find the right hands, but until then, here are the semi-finished project: Group shot: On the wrist, the PCG 5513 feels great. I think it’s the slender profile that makes it so comfortable. It’s a little known fact, but the PCG cases were a tad thinner than regular CG 5513’s: I'm hoping to have a set of original flat hands soon, but until then, I will have to live with this as it is.
  9. Although you might not see it the new mod team is hard at work. Dealers being contacted , scammers chased down (as usual) , new events in the works, our pic contest is just the first (your voting will come very soon). The mod area which you can not see has at least 7-8 threads going on all sorts of improvements, tweaks, discussions. One of our biggest and most passionately discussed being the heart and sole of RWG, do we become like the others or stay true to our core principals. Well we will be staying the gentlemen of the forum world, a site of knowledge,(not fanfare, member jumping, time outs and nukes a flying) is where we are and where we shall stay! We will be running some membership drives but do not seek to become the wild west like the others rather the home of the serious measured gentlemanly hobbyist.
  10. I will try to explain our position on above matter. High end builds are a touchy thing and I have done my due diligence. Having spoken to most of our Rolex modders I have found there are parts Rolex will sell unrestricted and those they do not, restricted. (some of you may know this but others may not so ....) Some have sources for them low and others have paid more this is due to access , if you can get from Rolex direct or have a supplier who does sell to you with a reasonable markup you get them on the cheap others have much paid more. I also have been on the phone with some heavy builders and they have paid prices on the high and low but in truth could not recall what the hell they paid on everything , I find that reasonable if you have 5 or 6 you've done as in this case. (I would not know beyond a doubt) I know I know write it down but some are not as organized as others so crap happens. This being said our habit of asking for breakdowns is a good thing but let's also look at the what the watch is worth overall not cherry pick a part or two you may be able to get cheaper. (did they who knows) Now it has been postulated that some always price on the high side and list their parts on the high end of what they cost in this we have decided to let the market do the work. Look you got no business buying a build for 2 to 5 k if you do not know your stuff and if you do not you ask around and research, your job as buyer not ours as mods. Now if a guy posted a TC with a gen insert and crystal for 2 k we would crush it but with laundry list of parts: phong this yuki that gen this that we can not get into it to many maybe's involved to make a definitive call. Now feel free to post in a thread if you think a bit high on something but let's not start a row you will never know what they paid and neither will we on parts, so keep it short and sweet. To expand further I have always felt that just sourcing all these parts and getting them put together right has a value all it's own, how many times have I seen guys post I bought this for 3-5 hundred but doesn't fit, how do you price that in. (we don't ) So look at the break down but also look at the watch in total in regard to price and more importantly is it worth that to you.
  11. 6 likes
  12. 50 today so 50 year old Sub and a Padron 50 years cigar for later.
  13. Guys, I would be working with two other members to produce the correct spec datewheel for our ROO frankens and rep. Yes, we all know how ugly the JF ROO datewheels are so let's not bash it now. The goal is to supply accurate datewheels, literally scanned and copied from one removed from a gen I own, and then reproduced for the ETA2892 movement (franken) and A7750 movement (factory rep). The date font would be 1:1 and the magnified font size would be correct for both the LWO and A7750 variants. There would be no need for special cyclops to be used with these datewheels to achieve the correct magnification effect. The primary datewheel background color would be off white for the majority of the units and perhaps 10% in black with white numbers. The datewheel for the divers might also be produced. Please stay tuned. I will add pics as I go along. 25/4 Progress update 1: Scans of gen datewheel done and produced in different colors/backgrounds Update 2 May 2016: Transposing of the AP date fonts onto images of ETA datewheels and adjustments made for size, position and spacing completed. Vector image produced. Next update: To produce a prototype Omega datewheel on an ETA datewheel and do the necessary adjustment for size, spacing and positions
  14. Members, friends Most of you know me already and I think I don't have to introduce myself. For those who don't know me yet - I'm not going to write what I do and how much will cost, but I will explain why I love what I'm doing. I'm a simple guy who love watches as everyone on this forum. Opened my first watch "wostok" when I was 18 and wow, so many parts, so complicated That day my future was written, I want to be watchmaker. Of course my father got my future written in his book and non of the words start with "W" Long story short, after I finish education which took a long period in my life, I could put those dreams on the table. Came to US, got excellent job (which I like it), married amazing woman, have two beautiful kids. Wait a second, something is missing ah watches. Let's go back to topic. Fixing, modding and playing with watches since 2002, came across the forum in 2007 and the addiction reborn a new me. Newer bought a gen watch since. It's just not fun anymore. Did hundreds Frankens and everyone off them bring pleasure, fun and at the end satisfaction. Ok, was kidding, have write what I can do Just to give basic idea. Any ETA/Asian 28xx movement fixing/overhaul Swiss 77xx, some Asian 77xx on request Any Rolex Gen movement service from caliber 1030 through 4130 (genuine parts available) Assembling watches from parts you collect And all simple jobs which you afraid to do yourself like crystal/crown/bezel/insert replacement, movements swap, etc. Modding on request Simply PM me or email at watchservices@icloud.com on all injury Turnaround my vary from job to job but shouldn't take longer then 2-3 weeks, not because required much time to do but simply because I still have to take care of my full time job and family Thank you for understanding Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Some adjsutement to do. Pearl lume, lollipop hand, dial without scratch @4. But I can wear it now ! [emoji322] [emoji632]
  16. A few months ago I set out to build a PCG 5513 from '62-63 using a gen PCG mid case and cal 1530 movement: http://rwg.cc/topic/183778-pcg-5513-project-v1#comment-1465646 I have been using an old set of 5513/12 hands until I could find the period-correct hands; hands that had the flat hour hand rather than the curved ones Rolex started using since the mid '60's. To be frank, I've looked high and low and simply could not find them anywhere. Further, even if I did find them, I suspect they would have been extremely expensive. Well, I looked in my parts bin the other week and realized I had a spare set of gen hands I acquired some time ago. Luck would have it that the hands were flat!!!!! WTF. I guess i did something good in another life. This saved me a lot of time and money! Swapped them in this afternoon. Finally she is complete. Specs: Gen PCG 5513 midcase from 1963 ish Gen cal 1530 movement Gen 700 Twinlock crown/tube Gen flat hands Gen bezel assembly Gen kissing 50 "long 5" insert Gen T19 superdome 3,6,9 "silver gilt" dial by he-who-cannot-be-mentioned Gen 7206 bracelet
  17. 6 likes
  18. 6 likes
  19. 6 likes
  20. Hi everyone, I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful Tools & Parts: - Silix 5510/6538 case - Rat tail file - Table Vise - Cordless Drill (>7.8volt) - Lubricant for metal cutting - Tap Wrench - 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit - M4x0.35mm Tap First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise. Voila! Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through. Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier. Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it. I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case. Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube. And there we go BONUS: So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube. For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself Hope this was useful! Good luck!
  21. Here's an old story from awhile back... repeated just for fun. This happened on one of those harbor tours out of Seward, Alaska. This is what reps are for! I was with my brother on one of those glacier cruises where the boat takes you right up to the face of a glacier and toots the horn so the thing calves off big chunks of ice and scares the hell out of the tourists. I was wearing a newer model Sea Dweller from Andrew, and we were all up on top of the boat, there were lots of tourists milling around in gore-tex and down parkas. I had already noticed a few times that the watch would leak and fog up, and I hate that. So I nudged me baby brudder and whispered "watch this". I held my arm up to ostentatiously check the time, and Rolex Stainless Steel glistened and glittered in the sun like God's Own Bling. I then sucked in my breath in alarm and said "IT STOPPED! Look, this thing stopped again!" and showed it to my brother. He clucked his tongue, shook his head, and said something about "as expensive as that thing was, you'd think it would work!" and I agreed loudly. A couple of heads turned toward us. So I shook my wrist a few times, and held it up to my ear. Shaking my head in disgust, I took it off and waved my hand around wildly to "wind it" and got lots more people glancing at me nervously. Then I unscrewed the crown and wound it up madly with exaggerated motions, elbows flying, and listened again. "It's STILL dead!!!" I said to him, and I could see him suppressing a laugh. More people looked, so I tapped it a couple times on the railing, and held it to my ear again. DING DING DINGGGG!! He was dying by now, trying not to laugh. When I tapped the railing the metal pipe sort of rang a little, and more people looked. I listened to the watch again and said "This bloody piece of @#!*$%" and hit it harder on the railing. He was biting his lip and people were starting to stare. I held it up to my ear again and said loudly "YOU MISERABLE LOUSY CHEAP ROLEX!!!" and I turned and bashed it really really hard on the railing 5 or 6 times, WHANG WHANG WHANG WHANG!!! and the pipe was ringing and people were stepping back. Everyone was staring, and I held it up to my ear for a moment, the pipe was still ringing, and I shouted "YOU LOUSY PIECE OF SWISS CRAP!!!!" and I drew my arm back, big pause for effect, and threw that watch as far as I could out into the ocean. It made a really nice high arc, glittering in the sun, and landed with a nice big splash. My brother was nearly wetting himself, tears were rolling down his cheeks, and I stormed down the steps to the lower deck as people parted and let me through, their mouths gaping in astonishment. It was glorious.
  22. Gilt Sub Hands... Most people put effort into their case, then the dial, the movement and the hands become an after thought. I have always thought that the dial and Mercedes hands are KEY elements and key "tells" on any vintage build budget or high end. There are so many myths surrounding what is correct, good, accepted in this world and I find learning this stuff as frustrating as everyone else, I have had to learn this stuff through trial and error (and error, and error). I get asked the question all the time when I post builds about what hands were used and read all the time "what hands are best" etc. etc. and finding a definitive answer is near on impossible because everyone says something different. I thought it was time to dispel some myths and help a whole mass of people out by showing these hands side by side. So here we go... Every hand set that I have, laid out next to each other, and all photographed to the same scale, next to a gen reference set (not my photo)... It should be noted that some of these have been aged and/or damaged, some are as delivered. Gen Hands I tried to make some general points about the gen hands, some rules that we want to get close to Points *1 - The second hand should have a tapered end The lollipop should have the same size of the base of the hour hand and be roughly twice the width of the minute hand *2 The walls of the hour hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot The height of the shaft should be slightly SHORTER than the diameter of the Mercedes sign *3 - The diam of the Mercedes sign should be roughly a third bigger than the base *4 - The size of the Mercedes lume plot should be as big as the diameter of the hole (however the hole sizes differ, gen is 0.8 and ETA is 0.95mm) *5 - The length of the "point" should be more than half the diameter of the Mercedes sign and a third of the width at the base *6 - The distance from the hole to the start of the lume plot on the minute hand should be short *7 - As with the hour hand the walls of the minute hand shaft should be almost half the thickness of the lume plot *8 - The distance from the end of the lume plot to the start of the point should be small, approx 2x the width of the side wall There are more observations that can be made but these are the main ones. All Together The comparison candidates - Left to Right 1. Gen reference. It is important to say that this is a reference image and is not my photo. I have scaled this to an approximate same size as the other based on knowing the size of the hour hand hole (. compared to the other ETA (.95) 2. HR New - 2015 these are the replacement hands that HR currently have, the minute hand is not long for their oversized dial. However the hour hand is better than the older ones. 3. HR OLD - circa 2014. The minute hand is long for the HR oversized dial and the dimensions to a gen minute hand are almost perfect. A MUST for an oversized dial. (HR is apparently getting these back in stock but this is unconfirmed at time of writing) 3. Clarks Tudor Sub hands for ETA 2015 - These new hands are excellent and in fact probably the best of all for a very reasonable price $20 USD inc shipping 4. Tiger Concept (OnlineStoreHK). These are the clear looser, terrible in fact. Only buy these for the lollipop second hand if MY is out of stock. 5. Michael Young (Classic Watch Repair CWR) - An excellent set of hands that comes with 2 lollipop second hands, a gilt one and a white one. These hands have an excellent finish but the edges are not sharp and the lume job is terrible and hanging over the edge of the hands. At $65 + $28 Shipping these are the most expensive hands here and I would say, from a shape perspective, only slightly better than the $20 Clarks hands. It should also be noted that the hands shown are for a gen movement, not ETA. But MY used to stock these for ETA but he was out of stock when I asked. 6. Clarks Vintage Sub hands for 157x - I am including these because i have them, I struggled to broach these and ended up bending them. A good shape but now superseded by his Tudor Sub hands for ETA builds. Hour Hands Minute Hands Conclusion I hope it is clear to see that many of these hands are "wrong" not close to vintage sub hands AT ALL. The Tiger concept hands are in last place, however, these come with a lollipop second hand. The winners are Clarks and Michael Young if you don't want a lillipop second hand Clarks is the hands down winner. But it must be noted that by the time you buy a set of Clarks Tudor Sub hands and a set of Tiger's to get a lollipop second hand, you are basically at the same price as the MY hands (if he has them in ETA) An additional note must be made for HR "oversized" dials, for this dial there really is only 1 minute hand, the old HR hand as it will correctly reach the chapter ring on the dial as it should. PLEASE NOTE, I am talking solely about vintage early sub GILT hands here. By the time we get into 5513s particularly the silver hands and most definitely the later ones, the design of the hands has changed very slightly. Many of the gilt hands from the 5512 and early 5513 appear to be the same as the "6538" or "50-60s" era hands I am comparing, maybe these were old stock at the time?. But as the years move forward it is easy to see changes in particular the side walls of the hands get thicker, so if you are doing those builds this reference will not hold up. I hope this helps and means you don't have to buy all of the damned hands that I have bought Kime
  23. Merry Christmas to my watch collecting brothers [emoji320][emoji319][emoji1335]
  24. You can be an alcoholic who only drinks once a week and you can be a non-alcoholic who drinks 3+ times a week. (IMO) It's ALL about the WHY. Do you drink because you're bored? Sad? Stressed? Gotta ask yourself those kinds of questions because merely basing your stability level on how often you drink doesn't cut it. Impairment goes much further than the night of and morning after. When using substances of any kind on a regular basis your perception of reality will be altered most of that time in between too, until you give yourself a long period of sobriety, then you get your moment of clarity, which is more like a life of clarity if you seize it. Either way drinking is not an intelligent thing for a human being to do. I feel society has come to a point where drinking is simply regarded as "normal". It's not... and it's definitely NOT okay for a lot of people out there. My advice? You write down your pros and cons of drinking, if you have ONE con... ditch the [censored]. Sobriety isn't all that boring. Never have to worry about getting DUI, rides, sick, hungover, late to work, beat up, that awful taste in your mouth when you wake up. It can be an enlightening experience, you get to ask yourself "When I was a kid, what did I do with all my time? What kept me so busy and intrigued?" Then you get to go find those things and apply them, fill your life up with meaningful activities and things you can see clearly and hold on to. 5+ years sober for me. Watches/reps Hobby was one of my life fillers! Never going back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 5 likes
  26. 5 likes
  27. 5 likes
  28. 5 likes
  29. If I find time, when all my projects are completed Meanwhile here is a new gilt 6538 with gold leaf improvement ready to be put in case. [emoji632]
  30. Joining a good part of nostalgia with reliability, simplicity, good power reserve, excellent readability and light on the wrist/ease of use this 5513 has advanced to be one of my favourite/ most worn watches in 2016. At the bedside by night, on the wrist by day the philosophy behind it is quite simple. In the last 60+ years it has been all over the World. It has been serviced and fixed by some excellent and by other mediocre watchsmiths in the most remote corners in the World - with those parts that were available and not those that are period correct, a crown here, a plexi there, some hands that were available. Relumed, repolished and just "fixed" this has never seen a ROSC from the inside and it never will.
  31. 5 likes
  32. 5 likes
  33. 5 likes
  34. UPDATE: Since I am waiting for the crown to arrive, I finished my 1675. I still could not sit still so I tried a new method of polishing. I used different sand papers and polished with water. I just used cape cod for the last finish. Now it really has a good mirror finish and you could literally see me mirrored in the chamfers when I was taking the picture. Now I just have to be patient....
  35. I must confess the most satisfaction I've had recently (which is a bit sad) was walking in to my Rolex dealer in Toulouse wearing the noob V6s DSSD D-Blue. As I switched it on to my other wrist, to put my gen Sub they'd been servicing back on, they couldn't take their eyes off it. So there I was, apparently with 22 grands worth (euros) of Rolex product hanging off me. The boss walked me to the door and politely opened it for me with a cheery smile, ignoring the other customers who clearly wanted to buy something. I got a strange buzz out of that - which was nice!
  36. 5 likes
  37. My recently aquired bullhead in mint condition today:
  38. Gilt watching the sunrise with coffee and a cigar.
  39. I have bumped a handful of old technical threads that I think will be of interest to newer members that missed them on their 1st run. RWG contains a true wealth of technical information that cannot be found (& has often been copied) on other sites - including the gen sites. These are the types of threads that brought many, including myself, to RWG & kept us here. Many (most?) of the breakthroughs that bridged reps, frankens & gens came from these threads, & many of today's vintage Rolex reps owe their accuracy to the pioneering work of many early & talented RWG members. Unfortunately, due to the passing of time & other indulgences, I am unable to add much to these threads beyond what they contain, so if you seek additional info, please do not be surprised if nothing more is provided. Also, due to the numerous forum software upgrades, some links may be broken &/or pics missing, so you may need to perform some detective work on your own. Enjoy.
  40. 5 likes
  41. 1675 had a pretty good scratch on the plexi that I couldn't get out by hand so took the bezel assembly off and worked the plexi with a dremel. Also needed to work on the old folded Jubilee I recently acquired. So cleaned up the bracelet, little brush and light polish to areas and worked the 55 end links. Took several attempts to get it right but now the fit is good. Forgot to shoot pics while she was apart. I love this old Swiss Jubilee. Super thin and light. Wears great and is super comfortable. Please note...no polishing of the case[emoji1303] Now that the 1675 is done. Time to work on the 5513. This is my birth year "Grail" piece. I am not a watch smith so it takes a little ahhhhh....[emoji51] courage to work on this. I have not taken her apart since acquired. Bezel was hard to rotate and also needed a good buff of the plexi. Thank the watch Gods, bezel came off easy. Before: you can see she is pretty dirty under the bezel. After some clean up. Once again no polishing of the case. All back together: My two favorite references together: Fun day with the hobby [emoji1303]
  42. 5 likes
  43. 5 likes
  44. 5 likes
  45. 5 likes
  46. 5 likes
  47. 5 likes
  48. I like to keep my favorite inserts secured to bezels. I'd rather swap out the bezel than risk wearing out the insert edges when I want to have a different look on my subs. Top left is a long 5. Too right is a regular (MKIII) fat font. Bottom right is a "kissing 40" version of a MKIII (some incorrectly call it a MKI) ghost. Bottom right is a very rare version of a MKIII where the cliches wore out so much that even the 50 is kissing. I should probably not leave out my favorite. A kissing 50 Long 5: One day I will find a nice red triangle insert for the big crown (it will have to be a lucky GoodWill find). Also, missing is a "skinny 40" which would round out the collection nicely.
  49. 5 likes
  50. 5 likes