NOTE - YOU will need to research current site locations as they have changed since this article was written. STEP 1
Get 1 of these (this watch has a nearly perfect dial & rotor, but its case is too thick or high-profile)
and remove the movement from the case (release the stem (gently press the button in blue) & remove the 2 case straps/screws (marked in red)) STEP 2
Get 1 of these (this watch has a (more correct) low profile case & potentially heartier, 1st-generation secs at 6 7750 (note that the evidence for this is purely anecdotal & is NOT scientific), but the dial is a bit 'off) (Note the additional metal below the crown & shape of the CGs - the low-profile cases all look like this)
and remove the movement from the case (release the stem & remove the two case straps/screws) (There may be exceptions to this rule, but all of the movements in the low-profile Daytonas I have seen (several) had this same rotor. So if you see a Daytona rep with this movement, it is likely the 1st generation secs @ 6 A7750) STEP 3
Remove the hands, dial & rotor (held on by 1 screw) from both movements, but keep track of which parts came from which watch (very important).
Onto the 2nd (Idolreplicas') movement, install the dial & rotor from the 1st (Perfect-Clones) movement & reuse the same hands (essentially, you are just swapping the dial & rotor from the 1st watch onto the movement from the 2nd watch.
You should now have a heartier movement with a very accurate dial & rotor. STEP 4
Modify the CGs of the 2nd watch's case to match this gen (file or grind down the extra metal below the base of the crown & reshape the CGs) STEP 5
Reassemble the watch & you should now have a watch that looks like this (and a spare that contains most of the flaws that were previously spread out between the original 2) (Hands, shirt, jeans & boots sold separately) (Note the correctly shaped CGs & the (correct) shallow rehaut, which are due to the case's lower profile & placement of the movement) Now, if someone knows of a source for a correct (flat, brushed) caseback (and, possibly, a slightly lower-profile (gen) bezel as the final icing on the cake)........
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Alternatively, to save a bit of work playing musical hands & dials, you can just swap the movement from the 1st watch into the 2nd watch's case & leave it at that. I think the hands on the 2nd watch are a bit more accurate than the 1st watch, but we are talking minute differences here. And, like I said, there is no factual evidence that the earlier generation of secs at 6 7750s (in the 2nd watch) were any more reliable than the current versions. This opinion is based entirely on my observation that many more of the old style secs at 6 7750s seem to still be running years after they were purchased vs the recent versions which seem to die within a few months. This is just a gut feeling on my part, so do not flame me if your watch is an exception to the rule. But I would like to know your experience if you have 1 of these early versions that may be identified by the unique rotor design.
While the movements are removed, you might also consider applying some powered graphite as explained here (the watch described in that thread has now been running (to within COSC standards) for about 2 weeks)