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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2011 in all areas

  1. Many want to install genuine crowns on various PAM models. When it comes to handwind models, most of the genuine crowns are designed for automatic's, and therefore the stems are sized at 0.90mm. The problem is that handwind 6497 stems are only available in 1.20mm size. So why not re-thread the 1.20mm stem down to 0.90mm? Short answer is that it can't be done, the stems are so hardened that they can't even be cut with a carbide graver. If you can't cut it with a carbide graver you have no chance to re-thread it to 0.90mm with a HSS die. Why not simply use a stem adapter from 1.20-0.90mm? Can't be done. Handwind movements are very large and the thickness of the case is very small, so small that the genuine crown touches the movement when it's installed. You don't have enough thickness to install the stem adapter as it takes up too much room. The only solution is to fabricate a complete stem from scratch. Here I fabricate a new stem from high carbon steel, these are some of the steps required to accomplish that task... Up first, a picture of the genuine crown and the original 1.20mm stem. I am using a high carbon steel rod of 2.50mm, here you can see the original stem next to the bar stock. I take 1.10mm off the rod and turn it down to 1.40mm diameter, the overall diameter of the original stem. Here is the comparison of the original stem next to the rod. The first part that needs to be cut is the tip, here is the start of that operation. All done the tip. Genuine on the right, rod on the left. Next I have to fabricate the square section of the stem, this is the part that the clutch wheel rides on and allows handsetting and winding. All 4 sides have been cut down, the overall dimension is within 0.01mm of the required 0.90mm dimension accross the flats. I check my work by test fitting the clutch wheel. Next up I have to make the notch for the set lever pin, this is the pin that holds the stem in place and allows switching from timesetting to winding. Notch has been fully cut to the required depth. Next the stem is removed and flipped over. I trim it down to be able to thread it to 0.90mm and start the treading process. Overall view after full threads cut. And here you can see the results of my labour, a hand made custom stem, fitted for a 6497 with a 0.90mm thread, it is test fitted into the genuine crown, all that remains is to trim the stem to length so the crown fits up nicely against the case. Overall the process takes over an hour to complete. As you can probably appreciate, it takes a lot of skill to be able to make such a small part to such exact dimensions, and actually have it work and fit the genuine movement clutch and crown gears. Definetely not for the faint of heart or wannabe watchmakers... Thanks for reading.
    2 points
  2. I have seen a few comments from guys on here regarding certain phrases used with PAMs. So I thought I would quickly write down some common words used with a VERY SIMPLE and brief explanation just to help those trying to get their head round this make. I am trying to do a write up separately on a brief history and basic changes in design since the Pre Vendome Era but hopefully that will follow. So here are some very simple explanations Pre V – Pre- Vendome : This is the time Officine Panerai were still a small watch making company before they were bought by Cartier who were later called The Vendome Group and now Richemont. Watches made at this time we call PreV’s (Up to and including 1995) A quick way of telling a PreV is there is no writing under the 6 of the dial Pre A – These are watches made during the transitional period (1996) of the purchase of OP by Cartier (Vendome). The design of watches were changing most notably the case and crown guard shape. A quick way of telling a Pre A is the writing under the 6, it says ‘T-Swiss-T’ A series – This was the first year of release (1997) where Vendome (no longer Cartier) was creating the start of the modern PAMs. A quick way of telling an A series is the writing under the 6, it says ‘T Swiss T’ B – G Series – (1998-2004) These watches followed the basic design of the A series watches but the Tritium lume was replaced by the Super Luminova lume A quick way of telling these series is the writing under the 6, it says ‘L Swiss L’ H series onwards – (2005 onwards) Vendome introduced the Historic design back into the model range, basically changes in the case and the crown guard shape. Of course there have been changes since then and there are variations to the above but in general terms the above serves as a simple guide. Millesimation – Very simply this is the identification numbers of the watch on the caseback. Since 1997 OP has used letters starting with A to designate the year of production. So, B series is 1998, C 1999 etc etc. These letters precede the serial number of the watch and the number of that model made in that year. Above this is the BB number and the OP number which refer to model reference/cases and OPs internal production numbers. Luminor – This original referred to the ingredient in the Tritium used by OP in the 1950s. However now it refers to the style of case and the type of watch. A luminor is a base watch with no seconds sub dial. Luminor Marina – This is a Luminor case with a seconds sub dial. Sausage dial – This is a dial where the lume to mark out the indices and numbers is applied on top of the dial like icing on a cake. Sandwich Dial – This is a 2 piece dial, a base and top dial. The lume is applied to the base and the top dial placed on top (Sandwiched) One Liner/ Two Liner/ Three Liner/ Four Liner - This refers to the number of words (inscriptions) listed on the dial eg: a dial with; Luminor, then below that; Panerai, then below that; Marina, then below that; Militare, is a four liner. This really relates to Vintage models but has been used to talk about later watches. CP – Cannion Pin: This is the pin that holds the hands in place. It is flat and polished. H1, H2, H3 refers to the height of the CP. On PreVs and PreAs the hands are lower (H1) on the later models it is higher (H3) <acronym title='Crown Guard'><acronym title='Crown Guard'>CG</acronym></acronym> – Crown Guard: This is the half moon shaped piece attached to the side of the case. It is designed to hold the crown in place by use of the lever and maintain water resistance at depths. There are 3 main shapes to these, PreV, PreA to G Series and H series on. The latter has 2 finishes brushed and polished. Destro - Means the <acronym title='Crown Guard'><acronym title='Crown Guard'>CG</acronym></acronym> is placed on the left side of the watch. For lefties, though original it was meant for divers to be able to wear their depth gauge/compass on their left wrist with the watch on the right. Logo – This is the OP brand Logo it is seen on the 5218-201a, 000, 005, 195. This logo is a tilted OP with an arrow pointing up and down. The arrows represent above and below ie; watches for below and above the water. Tritium – This is the lume used by OP in their early watches, though as it contains radioactive particles it was replaced with Luminova a safe yet strong luming compound. AR – Anti reflective coating put on crystal to prevent glare in sunlight. It is not on the early PAMs and the type and hue colour of the AR varies from model to model. SLOB - The first PAM prototype produced by Vendome, Solid Brass case coated in PVD, Dome Plexi Glass, Titanium crown, <acronym title='Crown Guard'><acronym title='Crown Guard'>CG</acronym></acronym> lever and CB (10 pieces) Fiddy – This is the nickname of the 127. Fiddy is US slang for fifty. The 127 has 1950 printed on its dial as an homage to its predecessor the vintage 6152/1. Radiomir – These are a different style of PAMs based on the very first military watch produced by OP in 1936. (Later reproduced as the California) The name comes from the ingredient put in the lume of those watches (Originally used on artillery gunsights) which later was replaced by the ingredient Luminor. It has a standard type crown (based on an old Rolex crown) and different case shape with lug wires. Slytechs – These are PAMs that carry the name of Slyvester Stallone who reignited interest in the PAM brand by having a PAM made for him for the film ‘Daylight’, several models carry his name and he is still very much associated with OP. Mare Nostrum - Designed for deck officers in early 1940s,totally different to any other PAM case, re-released version in 1994 but smaller with markered bezel then released as per the original in 2010. OP - Officine Panerai PAM - This is a simple abbreviation used by OP. PAnerai Model. MX - This is a Prefix code used by OP on their parts especially straps. It is also used a lot to describe a buckle with the OP logo on one side and Panerai on the other; it is a similar style to the PreV buckles. These are only sewn in type. PAV - Again this is a Prefix code used by OP in 2004 to designate left over PreV & SlyTech straps so they could be sold by the OP Boutiques. Now used as a bracelet Prefix code Tang - This is a shape on buckles similar to the PreV and are screw in and only have Panerai engraved on them. (24mm and 22mm) Thumbnail - These are rounded shape buckles that look like the tip of your thumb. Also known as Ardillon (22mm) Deployant - A butterfly clasp used to fix straps There are several designs of these for the 44mm, 40mm and Radiomir models. Boutique - A fully authorised / franchised dealer selling only PAMs. The official face of OP. Risti - A term used to describe a member of Paneristi (An officially recognised forum for anything PAM) Can also be used to describe any PAM Head. NOS - New Old Stock: A fair bit of PAM stuff turns up NOS. Basically brand new but sat in a drawer or on a shelf for a good while ! PIG - Its named after a manned torpedo used in WWII , The Italian name for their craft was Siluro a Lenta Corsa - Slow-running torpedo, but the Italians nicknamed it maiale which is Italian for "pig"; because it was difficult to steer. The Brits called thiers a Chariot. Strap Tubes (Tubes) - These are small metal tubes which are inserted into the straps, these maintain the shape of the strap shoulders and prevent over stressing of the case's lug bars when the watch is worn on the wrist by reducing friction and supporting the leather sheathing across the lug bar length. Guide to the various Panerai case styles/materials Radiomir Name: The Radiomir takes its name from “Radium”, the radioactive material originally used to make the dial readable at night. History: In 1938, the Italian Navy (also referred to as ‘Marina Militare’), commissioned Panerai to create a watch that would be waterproof while maintaining excellent readability – thus making the Radiomir, a 47mm watch with large hands and Arabic numerals. It is important to note that Rolex manufactured these watches for the Italian Navy up until 1956. Style: This case style has an unprotected crown and features a cushion-style case. Pay close attention to how the straps are mounted on Radiomirs; the lugs are based on early watches which were modified by attaching wire to either ends of a pocket watch – thus converting them to wristwatches. This detail looks nice and has some serious historical implications. The case style is generally considered to have a “dressy” look due to its slimmer nature (compared to the Luminor) and is loved for its historic role as the first professional diving watch and predecessor to the Luminor. Luminor Name: The Luminor takes its name from a tritium-based luminous substance, far safer than the Radiomir (Radium-based material) used previously. Panerai was granted its patent for the Luminor material in 1949, replacing the unstable Radiomir compound. History: The original Luminor design dates back to around 1950, when Panerai designed a highly unique and functional crown guard in an effort to improve their watches’ water resistance. These crown guards were trademarked as “device protecting the crown” – when the lever is in the closed position, it forced the crown into the case, providing an excellent seal against water and the elements. Style: Arguably the most iconic Panerai case style, the Luminors is typically what are thought of when “Panerai” is heard. Currently, there are 3 variants of the Luminor case style (disregarding size): Bettarini, 1950, and the 1950 “Vintage/Base”. All the Luminor case styles feature the iconic crown guard – making it totally different from other luxury watches on the market. The lugs are modern and more conventional. Straps are changed via a screw-in bar (not the commonly used spring-loaded bars), making straps easy to change while maintaining a sturdy form of attachment. Able to appear dressy and casual via strap changes, the bold and masculine look of the Luminor case became wildly popular thanks to its on-screen popularity with famous on-screen heroes (Stallone, Schwarzenegger, Statham, etc.) A look at the three Luminor case styles available: Bettarini Designed by Alessandro Bettarini (during the rebirth of Panerai) Regarded as the “father” of the Pre-Vendome design Luminors (44mm) Pioneered use of PVD on the watches, previously unavailable Case used on style like the PAM 000 Available in submersible form (PAM 024) 1950 Case used on styles like the PAM 312 Available in submersible form (PAM 243) 1950 “Vintage/Base” Case used on style like the PAM 372 Thinner, flatter lugs than 1950 Visible ridge on sides BB# & WR engraved on bottom of lug For a introduction to some characteristic PAM models based around the history of Officine Panerai, here is a pdf file showing some models and a breif description of thier appearance and influence in OPs history and increasing popularity. WT_Spotlight_Panerai_final.pdf
    1 point
  3. I chanced upon photos of a genuine Patek Philippe 5711/1A, and wanted to share it with everyone. For photos of other high-end genuine watches, you should browse the following website: http://www.minutemachines.com/
    1 point
  4. Noticed that Josh has the new Sinn U2 Solebox LE listed (click twice to make link work). The color scheme looks totally off on the rep. Anybody ordered it yet? Would be interested to see what it looks like in real life. Here's the gen:
    1 point
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