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People at all levels of social stratification work very hard to get to a certain level of success and prosperity measured against their peers. This success is represented by status and quality of their property and social circles. Facebook counted on this. So most people live in neighborhoods that reflect their level success and often choose cars, clothes, food, and other discretionary, and non discretionary items this way. Luxury watches are no different. So if you work really hard, or live a life of privilege, and the symbols of your social circles are GEN Daytonas, you will expect to have a certain rapport even with strangers sporting GEN Daytonas. And chances are you will have some common ground that is acceptable within your in-common social strata. If the person is wearing a rep AND they do not belong at your social level, you will wonder about their credibility, honesty, and many other things. Why some people actually get angry is hard to say but it probably has to do with taking offense in a personal way. That rep wearer does not deserve to wear the same symbols that I wear, or the fact that there are frauds among us cheapens our worth. Just speculating on your interesting subject

My thought is there isn't really one or two archtype of rep owners. Sure there are d-bags who buys replicas of prestigous brands to show off, but then what is the difference between a d-bag who buys gens for that same purpose? On the other end of the scale, there are people who likes watches and appreciate what the replicate represents; and at rep prices can acquire a lot more than they otherwise would with gens. As for myself, it is hard for me to justify why I like the rep watches the way I do. I can go on about a brand's history and pedigree and how much I admire that company's history and horological innovactions, until I stop and tell myself what I am wearing does not represent any of them since they are fake. I sometimes refer my reps as "toys" instead of Panerai, Omega and Franck Muller because they are not Pams, etc. The answer I come to is that I simply like my watches as they are aesthetically pleasing to me, not for the brand, history, etc because then I am only lying to myself. As an aside, I also realize 6 months into this hobby, I spent close to 3,000 in straps, mods and watches. At this rate I could have gotten a used genuine in another 6 months! As for the OP's original question, my guess is that rep owners dislike rep owners for the simple fact rep owners acquire something they know is not genuine. Fair or not, this implies a certain degree of dishonesty. One can view acquiring reps and passing them off as gens is another "short cut" in life. Owning genuine watches suggests the owner had reached certain achievements in life and the very existence of replicas cheapens that sense of accomplishment. Just sharing my simple view of the world...

Most guys I know who have one or two gen watches generally fall in the hate bracket towards reps..... because of whats been said before here... in terms of earning the right, working hard etc... Most guys I know with gens who are interested in watches... have no problem with reps.... As long as you dont try to pass off your rep as a gen ! The accuracy of a rep or getting it more accurate .. to me is about pleasure, its about enjoying a journey, its about enjoying a hobby and sharing that enjoyment...its about this community and the friends I have here... it is not and never has been about trying to fool people into thinking I wear loads of gens..... I will happily tell someone my watch is a rep... though most of the times I have been called out... I have been wearing a gen.... Yes I do play with people who think they know more than they do but that is a different thing IMHO... I like to watch them build themselves up and then wait for that right moment... to stick my pin in thier balloon... (not that that has happened much) I think what any gen wearer and indeed any proper people hate is someone trying to pass off themselves as someone they are not.... and those people usually wear reps to do that .... That general level of hate or despisment is that most people dont understand what we in this hobby are about or certainly most us.... if they did their attitude might be swayed... because all they see is guys trying to sell reps as gens or guys wearing reps pretending that they are something that they are not.... But you do see those same guys on here.... and I hate them... because all they do is register.... and post.... "where can i find...?" or "What is the best...?" now some of these guys then disappear some stick around to increase there rep collection to fool others and some are converted to the enjoyment and pleasure of this hobby and more importantly this community.. And overall I like this community more than the gen community of which I am a member of several.... because it is in the main truely about enjoying and discussing watches... and seeing what guys have done or want to do.... and not about look at me... look what I have or look where my wristie is now not because they want to share but because they want to show off !! So you could say I hate rep wearers !!

so what you are saying is....

In the world of watches there are the big players; Brand names which even the average Joe knows.. Then there are a couple of less known expensive brands, and a forest of relatively new brands which are not well known, even to the average WIS. Nomos is in the latter category. To be honest, I had only a vague knowledge to the brand before I spotted the rep at Trustytime last month. Then, starting to investigate the history of the brand and the accuracy of the replica, I got interested. List of references at the bottom. Much of the information is cut and paste from the net. THE BRAND Wikipedia "Nomos": In Greek mythology, Nomos is the daemon of laws, statutes, and ordinances.. Nomos was founded in 1990, by Roland Schwertner in the small but famous watchmaking town of Glashutte. With three employees, Schwertner travelled to Glashutte just two months after the collapse of DDR. The first watches were made in 1992. By January 2012, the company had 81 employees. Their first building was in the hillside above the village, but in 2005 Nomos moved into the old train station in Glashutte. Just across the road from A. Lange & Sohne. 2005 also marked the release of their first automatic movement. Prior to that, Nomos was most known for their manual wind movement. The old building, which is now the Chronometrie. (Picture from TZ.) The new office/ factory. The old Railroad station. Nomos is a true “Manufactory” that designs and builds their own movements. According to their website, they are one of only 3 watchmakers in all of Germany to wear the label of Manufactory. Thereby, they are allowed to type "Glashutte" on their dials. By law, 75% of the value of the movement must be created in Glashutte, to use this name on the dial. Nomos does between 75 and 95 percent of the work on the calibers itself. Nomos has also created several tourbillions for Wempe. This is the current line of Nomos watches: Current line of Nomos watches. MOVEMENTS The current line of movements used by Nomos. Note the "Sonnenuhr", which one can wear around the neck.By setting the date and point it to the sun, you can read the time on a lazy summer day.. A truly environmentally friendly watch.. No batteries or polluting oils. Nomos movements. Manual and Automatics. Nomos name their movements using letters from the Greek alphabet. The original hand wound models introduced in 1990 used the tried and true Peseux Caliber [ETA 7001], to which NOMOS added continuous improvements over the years and starting in 2005 only the updated calibers alpha (base movement), beta (incorporates date function), gamma (with gangreserve/power reseve indicator) and delta (date and gangreserve) are used for the manually wound models. The Caliber Alpha is the most basic movement, 23.3 mm in diameter and 2.6mm high, with hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds as the only functions. This manufactory caliber manual wound movement has 17 rubies and a power reserve of about 43 hours. A movement that is perfectly matched for the minimalist watch-a watch like the Tangente, the Ludwig, the Orion or the Tetra. The automatic movements used in the Tangomat, is called Epsilon. It is a 26 jewels with ca 46 hours power reserve. The finish is nice, with sunburst pattern and blue screws. Sunburst pattern on the cog wheels. The Nomos Epsilon movement, detail view. A bit different from the ETAs or Mioyta clones.. Genuine Nomos movement. The “Glashutte Ribbing” on the movement plates is different from Swiss style Cotes de Geneves. Apparently it is the angle used which is slightly different. Nomos has excellent webpages, free from the annoying wait for flash graphics to download and fuzzy design which are so popular with other brands. Easy to find information, even technical stuff. Just in style with their no-nonsense Bauhaus design! Interestingly, Nomos has the following mention of "Fakes" on their online Encyclopedia: ""Fakes All over the world and in all walks of life, the number of fakes has soared. There are Chanel T-shirts, which aren’t Chanel, Louis Vuitton bags which have never been anywhere near the Louis Vuitton company, there are cigarette lighters, trainers and silk scarves which are nothing more than cheap copies. You can find fake Lange & Söhne watches, toy cars and food processors. According to the dictionary, a fake is a modified or copied version of an article, a work of art, a literary work, a historical document, a signature. There were already fakes back in the 18th Century: The “Prillwitzer Idole,” fantasy figures of early Slav gods, were made at that time by an East German goldsmith (from Prillwitz). Even though NOMOS Glashütte is not one of the luxury goods manufacturers which suffer from copyists (because it would probably be too expensive for many of them), fakes, particularly of the Tangente do turn up now and again, on internet auctions. The “Tangete” (sic!) model serves here as one example: a customer acquired it at a supposedly reasonable price on the web two years ago, complete with its own special spelling. "" (From Nomos' online Encyclopedia) THE WATCH All Nomos watches are influenced by the Bauhaus industrial design concept of the 1920’s’ where designs are both functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. Bauhaus was a design school in Germany, from ca 1920 till 1933. Seeking to achieve a modernist design style, the primary intention was to integrate art, as well as technology and craftsmanship. For those interested in cars; Audi referenced the Bauhaus styile in their cars around ca 2000. The Tangomat has Nomos’ first automatic movement, launched in 2005. The case size of the gen is ca 38.3mm and 8.2mm thick, quite similar to the replica. Current Tangomat models in sale includes Date models, GMT-models and a black case. The black case model seems to be rare. The current line of models in the "Tangomat" range. PVD-case, GMT-functions and date-models are available. Genuine Tangomat. Note the shape of the "8". Genuine Tangomat. Note shape of lugs and the lugholes. All the Nomos I have seen on the net have display casebacks. There are great varity in the details of the design of the caseback varies. Some say “30 meter”, others “3 atm”, some say “Geschutches” other “gesch.”. So, I guess the replica caseback is ok. Nomos watches can have different lug designs. I recon both designs are inspired from the Omega Seamasters of the 1960ties.. The lug design on the Tangomat seems quite boxy and rigid. The lugs stand out 44mm. THE REPLICA The first Nomos replicas came out on Watcheden some months ago, without any fuzz.. The large, white dial and thin bezel makes the watch wear larger, and will satisfy those who are used to wearing 40-42mm diameter watches. The flaws I have spotted on the dial is a slightly thinner text, and a more square “8”. For me, none of these are dealbreakers. The slightly thinner “Nomos” text is more elegant. The strap is ok. It is a thin leather strap that feels very cheap and nasty at first encounter but it quickly gets better. Its minimalistic design flatters the watch. Nomos uses Shell Cordovan for their straps. Engraving on the strap buckle is ok. I like the slightly wider "M" in the "Nomos". The case design with the odd lugs does not feel familiar at once. The lugs are very thin compared to the case, and you immediately think that this is not a “Tool watch”. But, it is stylish. Replica crown and case. I like the dial, with the silvery shimmer and crisp text and numbers. The subdial has a very slight concentric pattern, like the genuine. Replica. Note the difference in the shape of the "8". Very slight cocentric pattern on the subdial. Lenght of the seconds hand is ok. Good finish on case. Well made. Minutes hand too short. Replica crown is good. Hand length on the replicas is one of my replica “obsessions”. As usual for many replicas, the Nomos rep has a slightly too short minute hand, ca 1mm. For most buyers this will not be a problem. The movement is of course the biggest tell. The display caseback immediately communicates that this is not a manufacture German movement, but rather a run of the mill Seagull ST16? Nice finish, never the less. Quite loud rotor, but all in all it does the job. Replica movement. Position of the seconds subdial seems to be correct. The crystal is flat and has no AR. To my knowledge this is correct. All in all, I am happy. I have a test of "Would the watch fool a "normal" watch interested guy?" From the front, the watch definently pass the test for a watch interested guy who has heard of the Nomos brand. From the back, the watch would not fool a normal WIS, who knows the look of a basic Chinese movement. If you like the style, buy it! Keep in mind that the genuine is not expensive and you can get a true Manufatcure movement for less than the price of a basic Tag Heuer or Breitling... This replica has opened my mind for a new brand.. A sign that "fakes" are not all bad.. References. Nomos homepage Nomos Glashutte. Article on Timezone WUS Review on the Tangomat Datum Details on the Epsilon movement ( clubnomos.de)

I recently acquired my first rep since November of '07; the 3rd version of Rolex's DeepSea SeaDweller. After a visit (or three) to Mayor's--my local AD--I decided to give the rep a try. I know due to a personally horrible 2008, it's been ages since I contributed anything worthwhile to the board, so hopefully this will make up for lost time. The V1 was a comedy skit, the V2 much improved but still too far behind the gen to even consider seriously, the V3 seemed pretty impressively close to the real thing, and other than the gloss dial and bezel issues, there seemed no reason not to take the V3 to it's logical, modified conclusion. And, after shelling out for the V3, waiting for the release of the V4 (or V4.1 ; whatever they're working on now...) doesn't seem like money or time well spent, in my opinion; judging by past experience with Chinese rep makers, they seem to take two steps forward, one step back, and then one step to the side. (while two issues might get addressed, a third is created in the process) So, based on some ideas bounced about on this, and other forums--including the other modding tutorials I've created in the past--I decided to take my V3 up a notch. Arguably "minor" details, of course, but even compounding minor details can make a world of difference to anything. To get started, here's what you'll need (besides the obvious DSSD V3): 1) A jewelers/watchmakers screwdriver kit: http://www.amazon.com/FULLER-135-0916-16-P...9527&sr=8-1 2) A caseback opener: http://www.amazon.com/Watch-Pavilion-Profe...9595&sr=8-1 3) Some 2-ply, waterproof marine epoxy 4) Flat black & flat white enamel modeling paint 5) A can of aerosol dust-remover 6) A can of spray Matte varnish 7) Silicon grease & a brush to apply it 8 ) Some toothpicks 9) A fine, short-haired brush (I used a 20/2) 10) An old cotton t-shirt 11) Nail polish remover & a hair-dryer First, let's start with the marine epoxy, since it's going to take longer to dry than the paint. The HEVs on reps are rarely functional and generally a perfect spot for leaks to destroy the movement, so this one we'll seal up right away. Here's a few macros of my HEV, from the inside (after the movement was out): Normal/resting position: When depressed: You can easily see what a liability this will be for the movement when submerged. Since we need to remove the movement in order to seal it, we can actually kill two birds with one stone and spray the dial matte while the epoxy sets up. Use your caseback opener to remove the ring: Then lift off the second caseback guard underneath: NOTE: This second piece that comprises the majority of the caseback is NOT titanium, but merely a piece of steel painted gray. Be careful not to scratch or get nail polish remover on this, as it will remove the paint. Once these are off, you're ready to remove the movement. First, pull out the crown to the time-set position. Then, use your 1.2MM screwdriver to slightly depress the release mechanism for the crown-stem. (I know the next two pics are of my SSD V2, not the DSSD, but you get the idea) Now gently remove the stem: Personally, I can't stand these ridiculous rotor overlay decals... ...as they tend to peel off a lot of the time when removing the rotor anyway, so I prefer to simply remove them. There's no way anyone with half a braincell is going to believe this is a gen movement once they've opened the back, so let's just trash the overlay. That looks better. Now simply use your screwdriver & remove the rotor: Once this is done, simply remove the screws holding the spacer-ring to the case and remove the spacer-ring & movement. Now you've got you're empty case: It's nice to see the manufactures/dealers kept their word by making this a true, triple-lock crown system, just like the gen: Now let's start to seal that HEV from the inside by mixing up a bit of equal portions of the marine epoxy: Use your toothpick to carefully apply it to the inside of the case, covering both the HEV's hole, and spreading it over a bit of the case to blend it: While that's set aside to let the epoxy start drying/curing (i.e. "setting up"), go ahead and remove the hands from your movement; feel free to leave the dial on. Once the hands are off, you can GENTLY spray the dial with the matte spray to reduce the gloss. Hold the can about 18 to 20 inches above the dial at an angle and using short, quick bursts to dust it, move the can back and forth while spaying, so that the falling matte particles are applied smoothly and evenly. I highly suggest practicing this on a sheet of colored poster-board or even an old dial, so you can get a proper feel for it. Please make sure to pay attention to rate and strength at which it's spraying--you don't want to coat the dial too thick, otherwise it'll wind up hiding the raised dial print and dulling the reflectivity on the silver edge of the hour-markers. Keep in mind if you do spray too thickly, don't try to remove the matte finish with nail polish remover, as you'll only take the dial paint off with it!! Allow this a good hour to dry before handling it to put the hands back on. Once this is done, you can see the glare & gloss have been eliminated (below) from the picture of the movement above: Now, let's turn our attention back to those slightly small and dull looking numbers on the bezel insert; the nice thing about making them brighter & whiter is that the optical illusion given off by the new color will make the numbers look slightly bigger and/or wider. The reason I chose to do it this way--instead of using a spray paint, was to not only save time by not having to mask off the rest of the watch, but too have better control and not worry about over-spray winding up between the insert & the bezel, or worse, between the crystal and the insert. This way, you're not really taking any chances and saving a redundant step. Start by using your fine, short-hair brush and apply a little of the flat, white model paint to the tip. Paint the engraved markings on the bezel: Make sure not to get too much on your brush--you only want to apply a thin layer, not glob it on--and be careful to not get any paint on the lip of the insert, whether it's the lip near the crystal or the bezel. Once this is done, you can hit it with a hair-dryer on warm/low for a minute or two to get the paint to dry: Now that the paint is dry, stretch a portion of a cotton t-shirt over your finger and apply a small amount of nail polish remover directly to the t-shirt: Make sure the shirt is only damp with the remover, not soaked, you don;t want to bleed all the paint out of the markings. Gently wipe the excess paint off the insert markings using straight--not circular--motions, moving from the inside of the insert to the outside: Make sure you gently & carefully clean around the pearl. You'll notice there is still a bit of film/residue on the insert & crystal; don't worry, it's normal: Dry it again with the hair-dryer for another minute or two. Since my SSD had a problem with losing the paint on the casebcack, I'm going to repeat the same process on the back, with the flat black enamel paint, as an assurance that it won't be chipping or fading any time soon: Before: After: Now grab your polishing cloth; NOT Cape Cod, or any other sort of treated cloth--make sure it's dry and not abrasive--I use a gen Rolex polishing cloth that came with the box set: Now firmly wipe off the excess, dried film from the bezel using a circular motion, as shown: Let's look at how much better the physical appearance is already between the before and after: Dull and thin: Now it looks wider and more brilliant: Much better! Now it's time to waterproof the gaskets, using the silicone grease and a small, flat brush: Apply a small amount of the silicone grease to the tip of your brush and apply an even coat to all rubber gaskets. The first is inside the crown: The second is on the outside of the crown-tube, and the third is on the inside of the tube: The fourth & last is the gasket that surrounds the 2nd caseback piece. If you can, peel it off gently--making sure not to damage or stretch it--and apply the silicon grease to both sides of the gasket, then reattach the gasket to the caseback: Once you've completed this, you can go ahead and place the movement and spacer-ring back inside the case, making sure to properly align the dial with the ring-lock and bezel on the front (by holding the movement steady while looking through the front crystal), before securely screwing them in. Make sure you blow the dust out of the case before reassembling it: NOTE: Getting these in & out of the case was a bit of a pain in the ass for me, not having any experience in disassembling a DSSD before. On mine, the screws had a beveled edge and the trick was--unlike other spacer rings (e.g. a 2836-2 Submariner)--you screwed them down firmly to the spacer ring BEFORE putting them back in the case. The beveled edges had to line up with the case, as if they overlapped, you couldn't get the spacer ring seated down far enough, properly. On my Submariner, for instance, you would seat the spacer-ring first, THEN screw them in tightly. On this model, you back the screws out a bit AFTER the spacer-ring is seated. Backing the screws out on this will actually fill in the space between the tops of the screws and the case, thus pushing the spacer-ring down against the movement and firmly securing it where it belongs. Once that's done, you simply push the crown-stem back into place and it should look just as it did before disassembly. Your piece should look much closer to the gen DSSD now. And you've spared yourself fretting over what mistakes need to be corrected on the next release of this model, not to mention saving your money. Here's the final product--compared with the bezel-insert marking on the gen: Rep: Gen: And one last shot, set aside to completely cure, inside and out, overnight: I hope this is of some help to you guys who were either worrying if they should do with their current model or wait for the next release. Feel free to post any comments or questions. Enjoy!

I just need a gen dial.

"That general level of hate or despisment is that most people dont understand what we in this hobby are about or certainly most us.... if they did their attitude might be swayed... because all they see is guys trying to sell reps as gens or guys wearing reps pretending that they are something that they are not." I couldn't agree more with your statement. Unfortunately, we still pose a very serius threat to those peole, because we undermine their concept of "success," in a world where "your are what you wear;" regardless who you actually are.

Not sure anyone is saying here that there are only one or two archetypal rep collectors mate...certainly not what I read here.. but there is a big difference between these D-bags as you put it.... one is a D-bag .. who not only wants to show off but also wants to con you ... now whether that con is just in how much he pretends to be worth or to con you in how much he spends on a watch...... he is just a con .. to himself and those around him... The other D-bag is just a D-bag...with money... Or a successful con man :)

Thanks mate just my take.. But another thing I forgot to mention.... Is that I have learnt more about gens when going with reps than I ever have just trying to research the gen alone......and if I ever do buy a gen of a rep I have had then I am much more aware of things I need to know about it or the brand itself... and avoiding getting ripped off myself

For the first boldened point: I have never worn a watch with any complications like toubillon, moon phases, power reserve etc, and equally would never wear anything like that, simply because they are not to my taste, so anything like a Patek is totally out of the queston for me. I have a passion for watches, which I have had since given my first watch as a child, but that's not to say that I like all watches... Sure, I can appreciate the engineering that has gone into complications, but they certainly don't appeal to me to wear them... For the second boldened point: My appreciation for a brand comes from the history of the brand and it's historic peices and contributions to the industry, not from a modern perception as to the 'status' such watches convey, or even many of the 'modern releases'. The only reason I like the Tudor Heritage Chrono is because it is a re-release of the Monte Carlo, and retains that early 70's aesthetic. The 79090 might well be a mid 90's watch, but the aesthetic of the case and design, is classic mid 70's. My favorite watch in my current collection is not the last watch I bought, the last watch I built, the one I wear the most frequently, or even the one which contains the most gifted parts. It is this one: A plastic submariner with a quartz movement which no one could in a million years ever believe to be a genuine Rolex. Why? Because every time I see it, I smile at the joke which it is, and it reminds me not to take life too seriously. As for unbranded versions, sure, they would be an acceptable watch, but without the branding, they would only ever be an incomplete copy, like trying to recreate a Big Mac or a Whopper at a home barbeque and not having quite the right special sauce. The aesthetic requires that the branding be there, not the prestige such branding may convey. I've never once been called out wearing a Rolex rep, I've never even had anyone comment on one either, nor has it gotten me any 'special treatment', so while I can only speak for myself, it's realy not about the status or the supposed status, it's about what I like in a watch

Thursday... .

The Asian 21j was the first mechanical watch I bought, it is a cheap RS2 Carrera, not a Patek. I have more invested in watches than is required to purchase a gen Rolex Submariner and doing so wouldn't break the bank. I have my eye on something specific, as a chronograph fan, and I will purchase this watch in Gen form and will not own a rep of it. I was in a jewlery store, browsing watches while the girlfriend shopped, They had a $500 Bulova Automatic with an open heart dial, kind of nice looking. but $500.00 for a watch with that movement in it, and that feels that cheap? No thanks, I'll purchase the odd Gen and keep collecting my reps that are of infinitely better build and quality than that $500 Bulova was. If this was about status I would just pretend they were real, something I have never done, not even to a stranger that happens to notice or ask about a watch they see me wearing. Like I said, I don't expect anyone to even notice or recognize any watch I wear and they generally don't (maybe it's a small town thing). I buy reps because I can't afford to buy every watch I want in gen form. Maybe it is a status thing, but if it is, I'm only fooling myself, because I tell everyone else that my watches are replicas.

Both today...

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--------- Unorthodox, but comfortable & nice. 288K on 2 piece nato Babes ♥

Frankly I don't buy into what is said here. "A passion for classic mechanical machines"? With an Asian 21-J movement faking a Patek? "not about status"? Why dont people buy an original Seagull Tourbillon instead of a Rolex fake? If we are honest a lot of the fascination actually comes form the brand. And the brand has a lot to do with its proclaimed status and lifestyle.

As Im sure you're very well aware of T...you don't need a watch to go diving.

6263

he was making a point about replica's. in this case.. a topic was involved instead of a watch.

Some gen owners (the ones actually interested in horology) carry a mix of gen and rep as it doesn't make financial sense to own 20 gens, especially to the richest folk, who can be rather tight with their dough. Those that have the passion for horology cannot be satisfied by 1 or two watches, gen or rep. If certain individuals are "full of ugly comments" about the rep industry and the community, they most likely no nothing about it at all. The fact is, if they did their research like the rest of us and knew something about the industry they would own a mix of gen and rep like a lot of our community! The type of individual to write such comments are probably so far up themselves, they have a perception that people are cheating 'status'. Status they feel they have worked so hard to earn. What they dont realise is the majority of our community couldn't give a rats ass about status, we just love timepieces, for whatever reason, and we all work hard in our respective fields. As an architect myself - the design, detail and engineering is what makes me tick. No pun intended. Finally the watch on your wrist is about yourself. I know people think they can assume a persons status by the watch as a symbol but IMO its impossible to judge someone by their timepiece and if you think you can then more fool you! Are you: A. The watch wearer as status symbol. B. The watch wearer as a student in horology. Just my penny.

There really isn't a good rep of the 14060 no-date sub (older model) but they just released a new 114060 no-date Ceramic bezeled sub that the dealers are selling that looks decent. It's the new bigger case so it will wear bigger than the traditional no date sub.

Just watched the film... Yes its a Chocolate..... I am off to find that lake he threw it in !!! After that he has a UBoat....FD... The credits dont mention Hublot.... though they thank everyone else including pizza makers, soft drinks etc... So I guess that probably makes it his own watch?

the n factory might be making the laureus version of this beauty soon: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=175119 keep hoping they will release it soon. and they wont jack up the price

RE: 111M Noob Factory vs H Factory 111M Now both factory make a M Version Any thoughts on the comparison of these? Someone should work up a spread sheet on all these versions

Yeah but oh so expensive But I agree, Tom Ford has damn good taste and makes some stunning stuff