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As I told already pp dispute is canceled and won't happen again. Ken and I found a solution, at this moment I did everything that he asked from me. now I'm waiting for him to reply/confirm and keep his promise. Thanks Ken and my apology to him and the rest for this issue.

I just stumbled upon this very educational video while researching timing machine results. Since I never really understood what the values meant I thought it might be interesting to share. Enjoy!

Hello all. ive been diligently working, back and forth with a factory, a designer and someone who truly knows their rolex history assisting me with the production, to bring you my truly affordable, very accurate 5514 case for the enthusiast builder in all of you! this is franken ready stuff! i present to you: built on a 5513 case size NOT a thick 1665 like the cartels do NO CG modification necessary NO lug hole drilling necessary fits 2mm bars genuine like construction 1:1 fits gen crystal fits gen insert flatter domed caseback than the MBKs better lug beveling than the MBKs higher crown posistion than the MBKs, fits ETA (comes with adapter ring) NO more crown imprint left on your wrist bezel is FIRM but SMOOTH turning, bezel sits level some MBKs DO NOT lugs engraved "5514" caseback inner engraved 5513 custom serial number, NO REPEATING numbers floating around, NO BLACKLISTED rep serials, NO 2 have to be the same accurate COMEX caseback engraving (only this 1 style currently) NO MORE "POLEX" between the lugs WORKING HE VALVE, thats right! gen like construction working HE VALVE, no more expensive retrofitting later! i dont want to say for certain, since i cant actually confirm this currently -but this may fit a Rolex cal movement as well, despite being designed for ETA. the crown tube on this prototype does not fit a gen crown it is too narrow, this will be corrected. in the future i will make these with out the tube installed but drilled and threaded ready to accept a gen or aftermarket 703 tube, or possibly with a high quality aftermarket 703 tube already installed, not sure yet. i also got my high quality print dials in (better than YUKIS), FEET FOR ETA NO MORE clipping and dealing with alignment issues. 5514 shown with a meters first 5513 dial (feet first is more appropriate but this was the first test dial i grabbed) i dont think i will be making marked COMEX dials at this point in time PICS: excuse the fingerprints and tape residue on the case back *please compare it with Jewelry and watch 's $1500 case and yukis out of stock $650+ 5514 with incorrect caseback and generic "198" engraving GEN for comparison: thanks for looking at my first test baby! have a nice weekend all.

A true watch collector , Welcome to the madness. A fellow Londoner here. The rep game is all about patience and most probably customs won't seize your watch. What watch did you order btw?

that TUNGCHOIWATCH strap looks amazing. BTW, my watch arrived today and OMFG how amazing. One of my favourite watches of all time. Goes in the list with the 3717 and Pam 000.

Bought a studded pilot strap from Ebay. Definitely makes the 3717 sweeeet.

OK. So. I don't know anything about modding but couldn't resist trying something out. Bezel bleaching. I just got an MBW 5513 and decided to remove the bezel insert (thanks to advices on removal). I had an old MBW insert so I popped the pearl off with my fingernail (easy). Then removed the bezel assembly from the new MBW, amazingly easy, just prized it off with the blade of a knife. Found that the bezel insert was glued in so removed insert (damaged it in the process) with a small screwdriver and then scraped off residual glue. Bleached insert twice in household thick bleach, must admit went a bit too far for my liking but what the hell. Then had to decide on an adhesive for the replacement insert. The fit was very loose and also sat a little low in the bezel itself. Anyway I decided to use a plumbing product called LS-X which is a silicon based sealing compound, readily available here in the UK. It's flexible but quite strong and of course waterproof. Anyway let it set for an hour then popped the bezel back on with my fingers et voila. Watch on a NATO and it looks in my opinion loads better. Here it is (sorry about orientation of photo!):

Hey davy welcome to the forum sounds like you have a vast collection going on already, hope the watch gets through customs for you!

This bartender wouldn't have known a proper whisky glass if one fell on his head from 5 stories. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Tc today.......great looking flake J

There are many reasons why mate.... but long and short is money.... it always comes down to the source of the film investment, sponsorship and marketing... to wear his own watch on set may well require him to make a payment for product placement... or be governed by his contract for the film... I recall reading in the first film that Sly did insist on all stars wearing PAMs for or in certain parts of the movie.. each were given several PAMs as gifts to wear.. I assume its the same in this film given there are so many actors wearing one in it... even the behind scenes shots showed some crew members wearing them... could be set up as pics or they too got some gifts !!

PVD is a general term encompassing many different type of coating, DLC is one of these types of coating. For example, if we are talking about DLC, then DLC is the material and PVD is the process of applying it. Think of it as this: PVD is the brush, and DLC is the paint. PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) is the method used to deposit thin layers of material (e.g. DLC) by condensation of vapor in a high temperature and vacuum environment. DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon - a specific type of DLC) are vaporised coatings. DLC is done with the bonding of high energy precursive carbon rapidly cooled down on the surface. It is very similar to the process of making synthetic diamonds, meaning that the carbon coating has the same attributes as diamonds. They are extremely hard and very resistant to scratches, thus making the coated metal surfaces more durable. DLC is a very hard coating, but the thickness is also a factor. Generally speaking, the usual coating thickness is just 5 to 10 μm, or 0.005 to 0.010 mm. Something more to keep in mind, the plating itself is only as good as the post-machine finish and cleaning of the underlying metal. There's also a lot of room for quality in the application itself. Properly done, even good old plating is amazingly durable while crappy DLC is still crappy DLC. So as far as reps go.... who knows.... it really comes down to prep and method as traditional GP can be very durable as anything like the rep method of the above if its correctly applied... There are so many variables .... its more a case of try and see... as we all know you could order 2 of the same watch from the same dealer & from the same maker and both could vary dramatically and even be both coated differently... in terms of durability, colour, strength etc etc

If you were.......... you wouldn't know it. Hello panerai153, pleased to meet you! Tell me, do I come here often?