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Here are some pics of the newly released Noob DSSD compared to Gen DSSD. The gen one has the Mark 1 dial which is the same dial used in all DSSD reps so far. I am not really good with words so I will let the pictures do the talking. Just for a rough guideline. On the gen, the date is set on 14, and on the rep, the date is set on 2. The crown on the rep is pointing at 5 0'clock. and the gen is pointing at 3 o'clock. DIAL Rep (Left) vs Gen (Right): rep: gen: rep: gen: rep: gen: rep: gen: Based on my observation (having to be very anal),, here is the difference between the rep and gen: -Pearl is smaller on the rep. The gen fills the whole triangle while the rep (mine) has some gaps to the triangle (and not centered) -OGEV text is very slightly thinner on the rep. The text is flat on both. -Font on the dial is slightly different, but only noticeable on macro shots. HE VALVE Rep (Left) vs Gen (Right): Rep (Top) vs Gen (Bottom): Base on my observation: The gen He Valve is sunken while the rep is almost flat. The inner ring is also more defined on the gen. Position of the He Valve is almost the same SEL FITMENT gen: rep: Base on my observation: The End Link on the gen is more sticking out compred to rep BRACELET & CLASP gen: rep: gen: rep: Rep (Left) vs Gen (Right): -edited- rep: gen: Based on my observation: -The bracelet in general is almost similiar. The gen has more satin look to it and better brushing. -The clasp is where the huge differences show. The black paint on the gen is evident. -The crown on the gen is slimmer and taller compared to rep. CROWN & CG SHAPE Rep (Top) vs Gen (Bottom) Added: (CG Shape) Top (Rep) vs Gen (bottom): Rep (Left) vs Gen (right) Rep (Left) vs Gen (right) Based on my obervation, the rep is almost spot on with the gen. Can't really notice any difference except the arch on the gen is slightly more pronounced CASEBACK Rep: Gen: Based on my observation, the rep looks spot on. LUME Rep (Left) vs Gen (Right) The gen has brighter lume and more "blue" to it. But the one on the rep is superlumed already. Overall, I think the rep is very close to gen. The only thing that can be used to identify the rep comparing side by side (if you already know the gen vs rep comparison) will be the end link/sel fitment on the gen is more protruding. And the paint on the clasp is kind of bad on the rep. The insert is still different from the gen but it is much better than the older version. This one has a slight platinum color to it but still too white compared to gen. The bezel turn is more pronounced on the gen but the rep isn't too far off. A huge improvement to the older version. I owned a BK DSSD and a pbdad/BK DSSD beofre, but the quality can't match the gen. So I bought the gen one. This latest version is pretty close to the gen, which makes me seriously consider selling the gen. Having said that, if there are some areas you want me to cover, please do ask before I sell the gen. Hope this review helps. Thanks

I shall start modding the AP Case over this week end so get your belts done and hang on tight fingers crossed the 6000 lines of code are correct

Fixed......bu-dum-cheeeee

Shot . . . in my car

i,m a day behind, nothing new lol Sea Dweller 4000

Like kbh said, it might be the crown clutch slipping. To check it, pull out slightly when setting the time and see if the crown clutch engages. Usually clutch trouble is caused by a weak spring that puts tension on the telescoping tube but sometimes it is the clutch itself that goes bad. If it is the clutch itself, pulling out on the crown will not cure the problem. If it is not the crown, you may have something out of whack in the setting works or the pressed in minute wheel gear slipping like SSTEEL said. I have had trouble with Chinese etaclones and do not work on them. For this reason, my advice is to change over to a swisseta if the clone will be much trouble to fix. It's more expensive but it turns a very good watch (TC sub) into a fine watch...even if it is a replica. Swisseta vs etaclone... If you need to remove the movement, hands, dial etc and take an etaclone apart to fix it, you are usually better off to swap it out with a swisseta because labor cost is the same or even less on a swisseta. All you need is a good swiss 2824 with H4 canon pinion and any associated parts and then swap out the TC date wheel complete with the date wheel on the swisseta. The etaclone H4 parts will probably interchange but I have never done it. As for H4 canon pinion parts for the swiss eta...now is the time to stock up on them before Swatch cuts parts off in 2016.

+1 The only thing that bugs me is the multi-date window. I know a lot of watches have it but I don't get it. If today is the 8th I can figure out that tomorrow will be the 9th without the watch showing me.

I have come across similar with a TC2824, and the issue was related to the minute pinion/gear, the actual pinion for the minute hand had come away from the lower gear that its usually pressed into.

I had the Noob DJ II from Toro with the fluted bezel and it was a nice piece. Date wheel was a little off but overall a nice watch for the money.

Are all of them trusted dealers? I do notice a lot of them have sites that have been seized, does that mean they are no longer dealing?

I regularly get PM's of members asking me whether they should or should not service their movement. I have a standard text that I always copy-paste and thought it would be nice to share it with everyone. Please remember this is my personal opinion. It is based on servicing dozens of movements ranging from handwinds and 28xx series up to the A7750. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Most of our replica's run accurate straight from the factory. No worries! You will most of the time receive quality check pictures from your dealer that will include a Timegrapher picture. That will show that your watch runs accurate (for now). In regards to service there are some things to take into account but mainly it is reliability. See, it all depends on how you look at things. In my book there are 3 different versions on how to buy and own a replica. I want a replica that looks like a genuine and.... a. don't care if it is inferior in quality, optics and reliability. I buy a $30 cheap Chinese replica. b. uses almost the same quality parts and looks as accurate as possible. I buy a high-end replica. c. uses almost the same quality parts, looks accurate and is very reliable. I buy a high-end replica and spend some extra money for a service. Problem is that all of our replica's are assembled in Chinese sweat shops with no or poor quality control. Remember that if the assembling and control was on par with Swiss watches they would never be able to sell these watches at these prices. The people assembling these watches aren't highly trained watchmakers in white coats. It are mostly production-line Chinese workers in dark and dirty rooms that have to spit out watches in a high pace. No time for proper quality control, cleaning off finger prints, following the ETA oiling charts etc.(for example) The design of most of the Chinese clone/ copy movements are good and on par with the Swiss version (exceptions not taken into account). But it is the assembly and lack in quality control that makes these reps less reliable than it's Swiss counterpart. So to conclude. It depends on how much you care about reliability. Do you buy a replica not knowing which state the movement is in and take your chances? If it runs you're lucky and if it breaks you'll see if it can be fixed. If not you just buy a new one. Or do you buy a replica and spend some extra bucks to get your movement in top notch condition so it will last you a life time when regularly checked and serviced. Compare it with taking your car in for a service. It gives you the piece of mind of a reliable car, not just a good looking one. Hope I could contribute Mark

I recently got a rep with an Asian 7750 on the bench from a friend of mine. He wore it about a month and than the first signs showed. First irregular power reserve, then it started to run extremely fast and finally last week it stopped completely.....So, as a good friend is supposed to I gave it a look. On the outside there was nothing strange to see. No screws caught up in the balance wheel, gear train free, pivots ok, reversing wheel ok. So I promised him I would give it a full service. I started disassembling it last weekend. Take a look of what I found, and remember this watch was only 2 months old! A lot of black gunk where the reduction wheel goes. That's no good sign... Removed the second and following bridges and found oil everywhere, literally everywhere. The whole movement was contaminated. No wonder it stopped! It was as if the guy at the factory just sprayed in some silicone spray... And than a very crucial part which needs oil to reduce friction (main spring arbor), NO OIL.... The main spring itself looked like an aquarium.. everything floating in oil. And that boys and girls is why many of our Asian 7750's need a service.... bad or improper oiling. All parts are now nice and clean after a good ultra sonic clean and this evening everything will be oiled and assembled. After regulation this puppy will run like a champ and IMO there is absolutely no reason to buy a Swiss version. After a good service it will perform and last as an ETA would. Hope you liked the pics Mark.

OK, I replaced the humongous Sub crown on my cheapo GMT and therefore had a crown and tube left over that I was itchin' to put to use. I recently got another slightly better quality (mostly) cheap sub but it came with a "twin-lock" type seal arrangement which I wasn't real happy with so the light bulb went off. I decided to put the crown and tube I removed from the GMT into the new Sub. I know nothing about this but just approached it from what appeared to me as the logical way to do it. Here's how I did it: The first couple of pictures removing the case back and stem didn't turn out for some reason so you'll have to use your imagination as I'm too lazy to tear everything part and rte-shoot them! But, I basically remove one of the link screws and separate the band - I think this is easier than removing a spring-bar but some might prefer to do it that way. This allows unhindered access to the case back which can be removed with the opener of your choice, I use a "sticky-ball". Once the back is removed pull the stem out to the "time set position", depress the "latch", and remove the stem by gently pulling it out of the case. This picture shows the a21j stem retainer release from the reinstall picture as the removal picture didn't turn out: Then the stem can then be removed. You will notice that there is no external O-ring on the old tube and that's the reason I am changing it: As with most of the lower priced reps this one has the movement secured by a plastic retainer/spacer (white in this case) which you simply pull up and off: At this point I usually put a surgical glove (non-powdered) on my left hand, and turn the watch over and let the movement assembly drop into my hand. I have been reminded by The Zigmeister that at this point the movement assembly should be stored in a covered tray, or at least protected in some manner (between layers of watch paper). I'm sorta lazy and and haven't developed all of the god habits I should so I just set the movement aside on a paper towel - which is another no-no: Although I think there is a special wrench to remove genuine Rolex tubes this rep tube didn't look like there were any provisions for any kind of wrench. I snagged a small tapered reamer out of my toolbox (nice to be a machinist sometimes) which I then lightly tapped into the tube. I have read that some use a small E-Z Out and see no reason why that wouldn't work just as good: The tube has a standard right-hand thread so it removes with a CCW rotation: After a few turns the tube is removed: Here you can see the physical difference between the new and old tubes: I lightly pressed the "new" tube onto the tapered reamer and applied just a bit of blue thread locker (Loc-Tite, Permatex, etc.). Klocklind1 correctly points out further in the thread that I should have removed the internal O-ring before doing this, and I thought about that afterwards, but I appear to have gotten lucky - this time: Install the tube into the case by engaging the threads and rotating it in a CW direction until just snug. You don't want to risk breaking off the tube, stripping it's threads, or "reaming out" the inside of the tube. The thread locker will keep it plenty secure once it cures: After the tube is installed clean up the excess thread locker: Put the movement assembly back into the case and reinstall the stem. This is the perfect time to apply a bit of silicone grease to the internal O-ring, O-ring up in the crown, and the external O-ring. Reinstalling the crown/stem assembly is basically the opposite of removal - insert the stem through the tube and into it's hole in the movement, then depress the stem release and press the stem inward turning slightly if needed: You will feel it sort of click into place and you can then release the latch. Make sure you can wind, set date, and hack and set time. I got lucky on this one as the stem and crown assembly I removed from the other watch just happened to be the correct length so I didn't have to "modify" the stem length. If all is good then screw down the crown: Reinstall the movement retainer (or screws and tabs if yours is a higher quality case): If you are satisfied that the dial is aligned and everything looks good grease the O-ring and reinstall and tighten the case back: Put the band back together by lining up the link and reinserting the screw: Using the proper screwdriver lightly rotate the screw CCW until you just feel a light "click" reverse rotation direction and snug up screw. Not too tight as you don't want to strip the threads: That's it!

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