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Forgot to mention, it was replica scotch

Lit up a nice Cuban, poured myself a sip of scotch and played Ride of the Valkyries on an old speaker. Then, and only then I pushed the button

The parts are coming together... Here's a teaser shot. I can't wait for the mail!

I happen to have a a Yuki 7206 and will quickly compare it to my gen 7206. For almost 1/10th of the price, you decide if it's a bargain or not. For all photos, Yuki will be on top, or on the left. Please keep in mind that my gen 7206 (circa 1967) has had 2 links removed and possible rebuffed at some point in its life. The Yuki is box fresh. First of all, initial impression was quite positive. Links are roughly the same length and the clasp coronet is not terrible: Macros of the Yuki however tell another tale. Yuki: Gen: Yuki coronet is a globular mess, whereas the gen has more distinctive spikes and balls (is there a name for the balls at the ends of the coronet?) The links of the Yuki are a fraction thicker than the gen. What makes the gen so nice to wear when coupled with the sleek lines of a big crown are the thin links. The Yuki is not chunky like a 93150, but it could shed a few pounds. As expected, the clasp stampings of the Yuki sucks donkey balls. Fonts are off and the blades are way too flat. They should have more of a curve: Side profile of the Yuki is not bad. It's about the right width, but the clasp itself is about 1mm too short. Also, it's puzzling why the micro adjustment holes are spaced the way they are. Its so me odd logarithmic scale. Anyhow, Yuki fails here on the hole placements: As far as endlinks go, the Yuki 80 EL's are acceptable. General shape and height are good. Could have a bit more definition with the two lines, but not a bad effort here: Overall sheen of the Yuki is not great. It needs a good oil bath and a proper buffing with my Bergeon 6085 buffer. The corone can/should be severely buffed to disguise its shortcomings. As for fitment on the wrist, it felt ok at first. The clasp opens and closes like the gen; in fact probably better than my 45 y.o. gen clasp, but something about the fit at the lugs felt off. Then I realized that the first link hinges a fraction higher than gen which means the first couple of links don't lie as flat on the wrist as the gen. Yuki on the wrist: Gen: So is it worth the $170? Given that there are very few alternatives out there for a nice rivet bracelet and a nice gen 7206 costs $1300+, I'd say it's adequate but needs some considerable buffing to get it to be acceptable. I may give it a try for a couple months and spare the wear/tear on my gen bracelet. All photos taken with an iPhone 6, no edits.

Don't run the movement while the loose screw is floating around in the case! Something is likely to get damaged.

Throwing this out for discussion.... I'm not clear on how TD's are managed, but I would think that Ryan (Intime) should be considered for new TD status here. All reviews I have seen, both here and on RWI, point to them as being a stellar dealer. I personally have done one deal with them and could not have been more impressed. Is there some process or protocol than needs to be followed? Does the dealer have to request it?

As some of you know, I have recently had the good fortune of acquiring a gen 116610 bezel assembly: The construction of this particular unit has been a mystery for me, until today. I have struggled for the past couple of weeks in finding a way to remove the ceramic insert from the bezel itself. Having heard horror stories that RSC themselves have problems removing the fragile insert (often breaking them), this was quite the challenge. As a result, inserts and bezels come fully assembled now. I have not seen or read any method where this surgery was successful. I have also heard rumors of a "special" tool that RSC uses that is only somewhat successful. However, I am happy to report that I have developed a process that I can repeat, and the bezel has now been fully, and safely disassembled! I understand that very few will ever have a need to attempt this, but for those of you interested, here's how I did it. After carefully examining the assembly, I gathered that I would have to somehow push the insert upwards while pressing down on the bezel to release the insert. Unlike rep inserts, the gen insert is held in with friction. as such, if one does not apply even pressure, the insert will snap. If you look closely, the middle of the insert overhangs the inside of the bezel leaving about 0.3-0.4mm of clearance: Using this diameter, I had a die fabricated out of delrin, such that it would fit inside the bezel and rest under the inside lip of the insert: In the same vein, I reasoned that I would then have to apply downward pressure on the bezel edge only while pressing the insert up. So I fabricated a die so that the entire bezel would fit inside a recessed channel, milled to the same contour of the bezel that would only apply pressure to the outer edge: The key was to have the bezel fit exactly and not allow any wiggle room as I did not want to risk the die slipping off during the pressing process. Now I gently put the two dies together to test for snugness. Perfect fit: The "crystal" press I have been using is actually my wifes grommet/eyelet press. Its beefy and very solid. I had my dies fitted with the appropriate connection hardware. I installed the bottom die and placed the bezel assembly onto the pedestal. Followed by the top die: Now the moment of truth! I will not lie, I was peeing my pants. Would be a shame to destroy a brand new insert! The result? Success! Insert is perfectly preserved. I am somewhat surprised I had to resort to this. Definitely not for the faint of heart. But with my new tools, I think I can confidently repeat this safely in the future. Upon close examination, the insert retaining ring is metal. For some reason I had thought this was plastic. Reassembling will be relatively simple in comparison; All three pieces will go back together and simply pressed together. I think there is a reason I have stuck with vintage builds. Working with these modern ceramic parts can be very scary! I hope you enjoyed the show.

Better pics:

Word on the street is that Miss Piggy did not take this well.............. First came the horrible news of the loss of her Kermie Then the realization the fun was over Followed by utter devastation Which quickly turned to anger Followed by violence Which landed her in the slammer Then Doctor Teeth busted her out of jail And she headed west To start a new career in show business

Either that or it is gummed up and prevents proper motion when the cam slides on the reset lever.

PAM233

to expensive... next year same watch will be 500$.. they are creazy..

Congratulations to CCI Andy condolences to Kerm's family and friends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pusher position is an obvious one. Many Asian 7750 based reps have pushers that are both equal distance from the winding crown. The more accurate layout (as per gen) has a start/stop pusher that is positioned slightly closer to the winding crown than the reset pusher. Look at some images and you'll see what I mean. FYI You can get a case that takes the cheaper asian (or swiss eta) movement WITH the correct pusher layout, then you're into dial issues but there the difference is less noticeable. You need to do a lot of research into a daytona build and find what's right for you and your wallet. Good luck.

I believe this moment calls for some solemn words: "Let's be sacrificers, but not butchers, . . . And, gentle friends, Let's kill him boldly, but not wrathfully; Let's carve him as a dish fit for the gods, Not hew him as a carcass fit for hounds...." Ah eff it! Tear that loathsome amphibian to pieces, cc33! [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1]

Did someone say ghost insert?? I think baking has its perils. Particularly with how the back side will be affected. I know the back can also age/brown under certain circumstances, it's a tell on artificial aging more often than not. I've considered buying or making a UV "aging" machine that exposes parts like inserts, hands, dials to UV using a 300W Osram UV bulb. It's fairly expensive to buy, but making a makeshift unit would be a fun weekend project.

Uhm, What about the reset cam below the hour gear being loose on the hour shaft?

1) Lick 2) Rub on jeans

The new version of the gray one is also on the site. However I think it still has a huge tell. The background of the Tag Heuer logo is black, and if I remember correctly, it is gray (like the dial) on the gen.

Hey Guys! In answering a question, My watch was boosted in Chicago. The letter I got stated that I would receive a form within 30 days, and it would let me know what my options are. Here is a scan: Kindest Thanks To Everyone For Their Input!!!!

Just some points to remember.... RWG... Seller must use actual pic's of the watch Seller must give buyer QC pic's, Seller must take all customs risk, Seller must accept returns of faulty items Seller most likely has had numerous PP disputes and scams costing a lot of money. Seller must also offer good after sales service. Off site... Give me your money I send a watch...end of story. Ken

As usual sir, you have stated a real problem in a most eloquent manner. While I have not been plagued as frequently as yourself with these mysterious messages straight out of the blue. Usually prefaced by nothing more than " hi, I want the best Daytona possible, my budget is 200-250 USD, who has one"? Nary a please, thank you, or excuse me for your trouble. What is going on with the lack of civility, the total lack of social graces, and this sense of empowerment that some people have that leads them to impose on others almost at will. It's very hard for me to understand this attitude, having been brought up to show respect for others, no matter who they are. It is simple courtesy to introduce yourself, add a please and thank you in the conversation. Get's you a lot further with others, rather than having this attitude of entitlement. It's not my duty or obligation to address anyone's questions, especially when they come across with this attitude. I like most folks here are very eager to help newcomers. We were all noobs once, but while we are glad to help, we deserve and demand a modicum of courtesy and respect.