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So then I put this on and think....why would I ever buy another watch[emoji50] Sent from my droptop using telepathy

I took some time off on a couple of projects (sorry Flex!) and focused on the cartel 6263 that has been recently released with the the asymmetrical pusher configuration, but has crappy sub-dials. I bought the white PN dial. Besides the big crappy sub-dials, the rest of the dial isn't actually too bad. But the killer is the sub-dials. They are a larger than gen and the hour sub-dial even bleeds into the outside track of the dial. Definitely 2 thumbs down! When you turn over the watch, you will notice that one of the pusher notches doesn't seem to be cut as deep as the other... There is a reason for this, which I will explain later. Opening the case...a shot of inside the case back. Once again not too bad, engravings are deep, fonts are pronounced... Shot of the famous Seagull movement that was used in this rep. But waitaminute...the Seagull has symmetrical pusher configuration, so how can the new cartel vintage Daytona's have asymmetrical pushers? Here is the cartel's answer to the symmetrical/asymmetrical problem... For the top pusher, the cartel fashioned a little "L" shaped arm that attaches to the pusher. This "L" shaped arm actually compensates for the difference in distance between a symmetrical and asymmetrical pusher position. The offset is a good 6 to 8mm. This also explains why one of the pusher notches is not as deep as the other one. The cartel had to machine a groove in the case to fit the "L" shaped arm and as a result, the corresponding pusher need to be shortened. Though not noticable at first or even second glance, the top pusher is a bit shorter than the bottom pusher. I give the cartel this credit...very ingenious, but when the watch is flipped over, the notch is a sure tell. Otherwise, when the watch sits on your wrist, the notch is not noticable at all. In my exploration, I also discovered that the seagull can never have the proper sub dial spacing for a Daytona. I bought an InGod44 PN dial just for the purpose of modding the cartel to give it the same sub-dial spacing as a gen Daytona. I discovered this... InGod dial on top and the cartel dial on the bottom. Notice how the cartel hour sub-dial post hole is slightly lower than the InGod? Yup...a gen-spec dial is not a direct swap. BUT...I wasn't going to give up, so I proceeded to tear apart the Daytona and I discovered the following. As you may well know, the hour totalizer (sub-dial) is static for the Seagull movement...in other words, it is not functional. Here is the little gear responsible for holding the hour totalizer hand in place. The hour gear needs to be moved slightly upwards, but the gear is set into place by a pivot and a pivot hole machined into the top plate of the movement. I had to either move the position of the pivot hole or remove the pivot. I decided that to remove the pivot would be the easiest way. So I proceeded to file down the pivot, until it was gone and the gear sat flat on the surface of the movement plate. I then took the cover plate...Notice that the plate keeps the hour gear in a specific spot. So I enlarged the hour gear hole by using one of my trusty broaches. But the gear had to stay in its new position, so I used some cold weld adhesive to affix the gear into the proper place on the movement plate. I used slow set cold weld adhesive as this would provide some extra time to move the hour gear into the proper position. I quickly reinstalled the cover plate and placed the InGod dial onto the movement. I then aligned the post to the new dial. Here is the end result... After the adhesive has dried, I used dial dot tape to install the InGod dial. Notice that the hour post is in the middle... The hands go back on... ...and the final product...the subdial issue for the vintage cartel Daytona...solved!!! Okay...back to Flex's projects...

If you folks remember a couple of months back, Legend offered a mod package for AP ROO's that brought them up several notches on the "Believability scale" The mods addressed two problems that separated the stock ROO with the A7750 movement from the genuine or the Franken ROO's with gen dials, the position of the DW relative to the Tachy and the size of the ring on the hour hand. Later he came up with a couple of other goodies, one being the Cyclops mod to make the Cyclops more "gen like" and a better DW. Another mod that Legend recommended was the replacement of the a7750 mainspring with a stronger ETA 7750 mainspring. considering that both of the watches I sent him needed a service, I opted to have the mainsprings changed as well. As everyone knows already, Legend is a Prince of a fellow, one of the nicest folks around, and a joy to work with. I got the watches back yesterday, and frankly, I was very pleased with the results. the hand mod is very noticeable, as the stock hour hands on the a7750 is quite a bit larger in diameter than the genuine hands. The two watches I sent were a White Dial Rubberclad and a Safari. both watches got all the mods, except the Safari tachy ring was not shaved. Here are some photos I took of the two after putting the straps back on. The White Dial Rubberclad had a previous trip to Vac who relumed the hands, it glows like a torch!! The Safari of course has no lume. The RC is on a Black Gator from SMP lover, the Safari is on a gen AP Safari hornback. Both of these are the newer straps that take the 20mm tang buckle, which I find much more comfortable than the 18mm deployant straps/clasp.

Thanks for The help guys So it seems its Worth more Then 1K but 1k Should be a good Price for me right ? This is a friend so i Will buy it for whats it Worth for Real not what i could get away with

Beauty! And looks practically new. Congrats

Sent from my droptop using telepathy

Looks decent for the price. Can your lady pull off a watch of this caliber? A $31k watch? Personally, I think the model with the white rubber strap will wear better and you'll have less gold plating to worry about.

I have never used HR so I'm curious to see what they are up to and, of course, I'll keep the forum posted with what I hope will be excellent news. And since I'm quoting you: LHOOQ tells me that you've got a lot of intel on the variations between vintage and "modern" Explorers. As such I'll take the liberty of posting something in private to you tomorrow. I'd appreciate your feedback on a couple of questions I have.

http://money.cnn.com/2015/07/28/technology/china-fake-iphone-factory/index.html Should our dealers be worried? It's amazing that this even happened at all given everything else that is readily available online with a simple search on Google.

The hands in my pics are both 13mm for certain, were in silver from Helenarou several months ago. They had the gold for a while, and said they had just received the silver when I ordered. I took the silver down to bare brass using 1500 grit sandpaper, wanting all brass hands on the Submariner.

Im always wary of new members with very limited posts shouting off about a bad deal with one of our leading TD's and find it disstasteful. I hav enever had a bad deal with any of our TD's and I am one of the most prolific buyers. AJ