Leaderboard

Sent from my droptop using telepathy

Lovely watches out this sunny day, thanks for sharing guys! 5514 for me today

5513 today ...and a friendly bee

I forgot I ordered this and it was in the mailbox. Always wanted to try one of the vintage genuine Tropic bands. Looks right at home on the BC. Sent from my droptop using telepathy

Wearing this Tudor "Big Crown today. It's not getting much wrist time, and may be up for grabs soon.

There has been a lot of interest lately in domed Tropic crystals, so I thought I'd do a quick photo comparison. I attempted to show what they look like from low oblique angles and then slightly higher, so you can see how the distortions change with viewing angle. All of these are genuine vintage tropic crystals except the CWP tropic 19 on the Frosty Flake. The 1665 Sea Dweller wears a tropic 39 "Superdome", the 6538 Big Gonzo wears a tropic 17 "Superdome", and the 6536/1 Mini-Gonzo wears a tropic 16 "Dome". To start off, here's a group shot with the Frosty Flake down front, then left to right, the Mini-Gonzo, the Big Gonzo and the SD. At this point the only crystal that looks fake is the genuine 39 on the SD. Next up is the tropic 19 vs. tropic 39, from a low angle and then higher. Next is the tropic 19 high dome vs. the tropic 16 low dome. Now lets look at the tropic 19 vs. the tropic 17. Tropic 19 vs. tropic 39 again. And now in one smooth sweep from low to high, all four together. Compare the distortions at different angles. Et voila'. I hope this will help you decide which tropic to choose for your build, and will show the optical properties of each.

Edge’s Guide to Replica Forum’s Part I An Introduction to RWG and Other Replica Forums and A Dealer Member Trade Outline. This is a guide to using this and many of the other forums. My aim in writing this is to better educate members as to the effectiveness of this forum is saving $$$ for hundreds and hundreds of members. Most people here will have at one time seen or fallen victim of Idealwatches or suchlike so do not fear reprisal for mentioning the fact that you almost did/did business with them, these sites are very well designed and would fool many people. The members here and on the other forums, have had the benefit of being educated by other people as to how much to pay and what to look for. I am not by any manner or means an expert in this field, I have a lot to learn, and I learn new information every time I log on. The key is to read as much as you can before posting questions, if someone has posted it before in an appropriately named thread it should be easy enough to find, and there is masses of information contained within these here walls. First things first: I strongly advise ANY of you to read this, it is a book called The Replica Watch Report and it is regularly updated and is an excellent informational tool. Replica Watch Report Let us not get too far ahead of ourselves and say that the forums that have been set up for us are the ONLY places that you will ever need to go to find out about replica watches. There are many trusted dealers, whom have been tried and tested by many people before you. All members are actively encouraged to post a review after a transaction, whether it be positive or negative. If a dealer is not reffered to positively within these forums and has not been verified or has not become a dealer at the forums, please do not bother trying to buy from them. For the sake of the $50 you might save it’s worth the peace of mind that our dealers have been here and done that, and their service is absolutely excellent. I am going to attempt to stay away from the personal overtones that are sometimes attributed to these kind of threads/posts. I do not intend to personally vouch for ANY dealers and I am ultimately not responsible for any experiences you have. I am merely going to outline the basics of the forum to try and simplify things for new members and existing members alike. Dealers: I will not bother mentioning them each by name as they vary from forum to forum and can each be found in the respective Dealer Section. RWG Dealer Section: Watch Dealers – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=19 Accessory Dealers – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=68 The dealers in these sections have been tried by MANY members before you and have been evaluated based upon performance by members and their experiences posted in the dealer review section. Dealer Review Section – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=11 Please take some time to read this section to make yourself aware of any pros and cons of working with ANY dealer. Also please note that Dealers are there to help you out, they happily answer to PM’s and Email’s. Please be sure to check whether the dealer in question accepts the form of communication that you choose, some wont do PM’s and some prefer them. Please take time to familiarise yourself with a dealer’s guidelines as to what happens should a package be damaged/lost. ALWAYS try and sort any problems with a dealer in private until satisfactory completion, in many cases resolution is promptly found, however there are occasions where a resolution cannot be found and advice must be saught from the members and it as at this time and this time ONLY that you announce any problems to the board for advice. Then after a satisfactory resolution is found, or an agreement is reached, please feel free to write a FULL and Comprehensive review of your dealings, whether that be positive or negative, censorship of reviews only leads to ill informed members. Member Trade: There is a member trade section of the board, which is relatively self explanatory. Member’s Trade Section – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=18 Where you can trade Watches, Straps and Bracelets, Tolls and Parts and Other Item’s. Please take time to get references from the member you intend to deal with. Has he/she traded anything before? How did it go? And suchlike. This is a very important part of the forums, and we pride ourselves on trying to help each other out, but please be careful, remember the old adage “If it looks too good to be true, it is!!” We have many trusted members and do many trades on a daily basis, so it should be relatively easy to find a good deal with a member who will come through for you. Please guys remember that a member is not responsible for variables outwith their control. If an item is damaged in transit or, God forbid, lost, then the member will no doubt try to help in any way that they can but remember these people aren’t high street vendors, they are themselves small time collectors like you, and cannot afford to refund you in full if they have done the best they can to make sure there are no problems. REMEMBER, there is an inherent risk involved in all transactions conducted with members/dealers as this is not a mainstream hobby. Many good deals are to be had from buying from members, and usually some form of trade will be acceptable where you each send some goods and cash as appropriate. These trades are usually mutually beneficial. Anyway enough about buying and selling……. Watch Repair and Upgrade: On the forums we have a few resident watch repair and upgrade guys, they are superb at what they do. Each has their own specific genre and niche. They can be found by reading in the Knowledge Base Section, and also a couple have their own areas. Knowledge Base – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=55 Also contained within the Knowledge Base section are MANY FANTASTIC knowledgeable posts from a lot of different members, all of which are worth a good read. Watch Repair and Upgrade Section – http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?act=SF&s=&f=7 Where The Zigmeister Zone and RBJ’s Corner can be found, as well as many Watch Repair and Upgrade Posts from our membership. Feel free to read, read and read some more in thee sections, should you have any questions that have not to the best of your knowledge been covered then go ahead and ask, both The Zigmeister and RBJ have Q&A sections in their area’s, and you can also post a new thread to ask the opinion of the members, many of whom readily opine lol. Other Issues: Let’s get the obvious one out of the way first….. Who has the Best…………? Answer: Guys this is not EVER a good question, simple as that. There are too many variables in which there is too much ambiguity, to give a definitive answer to this much maligned question. Each version of each watch is usually very similar, in many cases the watches come from the same supplier. However different dealer’s do on occasion get different versions of the same watches, and NOONE can say which is BEST. There are different flaws in each and the best is a personal point of view. Something that you find unbarable as a fault might mean NOTHING to another member, so PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE Don’t ask who has the best anything. It is usually responded to with, frivolity and sarcasm, so just read as much as you possibly can about each version and draw your own conclusions. Some members are extremely helpful and will go out of their way to help out some others aren’t as helpful, you will quickly learn who’s who and you will no doubt make a plethora of friends. There are many other sections…. RWG News, Photo Gallery, General Discussion and Off Topic to name but a few, these are all relatively self explanatory and I don’t wanna ruin all your searching fun. Please take your time to read as much as you can, and feel free to add any knowledge that you bring with you to our vaults of information. Some Further Reading: Please do not be disappointed if one of your threads is not listed here, if you feel that anything should be added then please let me know. There is so much info that I couldn’t possibly link all of it. The key is to do related searches and just read read read. Ubiquitous: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=3302&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=4472&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1216&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=5743&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1066&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=107&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=109&hl= By-Tor: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=3392&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=426&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=4509&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=927&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=429&hl= Pugwash’s Photo Tutorials: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=825&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=826&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=3994&hl= Pugwash + Edge: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=884&hl= Edge: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=4275&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=4855&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=3715&hl= http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=420&hl= There are many other VERY VERY valueable topics to read from MANY other extremely knowledgeable members, Please take the time to read as many posts in the knowledge base and the watch repair and upgrade sections as you can. If I have left anyone out please feel free to post a link to the topic and I will add it to this. I hope that this guide has been helpful to new members and older members alike as a general outline of the forum set-up and Dealer/Member Trade. Please look forward to Part II in the series in which I will delve slightly further into our Forums. Thanks Edge!

Went along to Brands Hatch as a guest of Aston and although I miss racing terribly, it was great to see some of the guys. Unfortunately the team I raced with had an off after 3/4 distance so not the result they were hoping for (maybe there's a chance for me after all to return :-) Regards AJ

I found this piece of great information while browsing through the old tip section of thereplicacollector.com Originally posted by alfa1 in 2006. link to original post I found this post very helpful completing my old 1665 project (pics coming soon), and decided to post it here for your DIY pleasure. Here it goes: This is in two parts, the first was originally posted by JimmyThree. It was this, which prompted me to do some further critical analysis, so the second part is mine. It covers what has been discussed before, however, these random discussions were to me, lacking the necessary absolutes needed to allow completion of the proceedure with any degree of success. Onward Part I A genuine or aftermarket submariner 7.0mm case tube can be installed in the case in order for a genuine crown to be used. The 7.0mm submariner case tube has the same thread size where it screws into the case as the standard 6.0mm case tube used in older DJ, Exp I etc...3.0mm X .35mm and a standard thread tap for the Rolex case can be used to tap it out to the correct size if necessary. The 3.0mm X .35mm taps are available from most watch parts supply houses. Many replicas have the case threaded for the smaller case tube thread size same as the 5.3mm crown and modern 6.0mm crowns...2.5mm X .25mm and if this is the size in your submariner watch case, the hole will have to be drilled out first with a number 36 (2.7mm) drill bit before threading the hole with the 3.0mm X .35mm tap. Be sure to drill the hole straight through the case and lubricate the bit with cutting oil or WD 40 etc. After the hole has been bored, line the tap up straight and very carefully start cutting the threads in the case. Turn the tap about 1/2 turn at a time and back it up to dislodge the metal chips and lubricate the tap with thread cutting oil or WD 40 etc to help prevent galling and to carry the chips away from the threads. After the hole has been tapped, clean the case in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush being sure to get all the metal chips out of the newly threaded hole (I hope you removed the movement before starting this project!!) and try the case tube for proper fit. Pipe cleaners are another way to clean the threads out. Be advised that the 7.0mm submariner case tube does not fit up against the case same as the standard 6.0mm case tube. The standard genuine 6.0 case tube uses a silver sealing washer between the slightly tapered case tube and case for a gasket (I have never seen one of these gaskets on a replica) and the 7.0mm case tube uses a rubber O ring gasket that fits against a flat machined surface on the case. Machining the case is a bit more involved so I will leave it out and simply recommend anyone to seal the case tube O ring to the case with waterproof silicone grease. I have a miniature milling machine and cutter for cutting a flat on cases but if the case has enough area for the O ring to seal, I let it go as is. Tips: On cases with the correct 3.0mm X .35mm hole size...be sure to run the tap through it first (if you have one) or very carefully try the case tube for proper fit because sometimes the threads are not very good and they can ruin the case tube. You can find good used genuine submariner crowns on eBay. Practice cutting threads on a junk case or bore a few holes in a piece of stainless steel sheet and tap them for practice. When cutting practice holes, it is easier to start out with a smaller bit first and work up to the # 36 bit. Stainless steel is not easy to work with so a few practice runs are in order. The #36 (.2.7mm) drill bit is a tiny bit larger that usual so the tap will not bind up when cutting threads in the hard steel case. It is better to have the threads a bit shallow than take a chance on breaking the tap off in the case. When you buy a 7.0mm case tube, be sure to get all the rubber O ring gaskets including the one inside the crown cap and on the outside of the case tube. You can use plastic based gasket sealer on the case tube threads to help seal the tube and hold the tube in place and keep it from backing out. Case tube spline wrenches are available to make the job of inserting the case tube easier but you can usually get the tube screwed in by using the crown for a tube driver if you are careful. Sometimes the crown will tighten down and unscrew the case tube after insertion so if you can get a case tube wrench it is money well spent. There are old type and new type case tubes and wrenches so ask for new type replacement case tubes and wrenches so everything will work together. Do not count on the tube to be water resistant without testing the empty case first. Part II Establishing dimensions and how minute they really are. 1 mm = .039370082" 2.60mm = .102362" 2.65mm = .104330" 2.70mm = .106299" The following directly relates to the Installation of a Genuine or Very Good replica 7mm Trip-Loc Crown. This is for edification and discussion only. Rolex Trip-Loc 7mm Crown - Part No.24-703 Rolex Case Tube 7mm - Part No.24-7030 Generic - are generally refered to as 7mm crown or tube. TAPS: Tap size for the 7mm case tubes(specifically 24-7030) is 3.0mm x .35mm proper drill size is 3.00mm (- .35mm) = '2.65mm' (a little formula my industrial tool supplier showed me) On minature threads such as these, it is imperative that major and minor diameters are correct for desired lock up. You will surely strip the case tube (or more catastrophically) the case, when applying proper setting torque to improperly cut threads. When working with 316, 440 or 904 stainless steel, either facing, cutting or tapping, it is imperative that you use a cutting fluid that is compatible with the parent metal, in this case I prefer 'Tool Cool' or 'Tapmatic-plus1' comment: I got mine from merlintools on ebay. great! CASE TUBES: The 6mm case tube wrench works on both 6mm and 7mm case tubes, why they don't advertise them as such, really baffles me. Keep in mind, all new case tubes in current Rolex' have the new style case tubes (splines at the top) and, so will all of the new generic case tubes. If you see an advertisement for case tubes showing 'old and new' make sure you get the new tube and tool. That is of course, unless you have an endless supply of early genuine case tubes. Then the early tool with splines in the lower body of the tube would be correct. CASE TUBE 'O' RING OPENING: A stepped Spot face cutter is required to duplicate the cavity in the tube bore of the case to capture the outer 'o' ring that resides above the case tube threads. First stage cuts the proper diameter for the 'o' ring, (in some earlier Rolex' models a flat fabric seal was used) the second, cuts the stop shoulder, which in turn determines the desired amount of crush to the 'o' ring. This operation is one more of the critical operations that help achieve its resistance to water and pressure. Because this machining operation is done to the case while on a CNC machining center, You 'WILL NOT' be able to acquire this cutting tool, it will have to be made by an industrial tool supply house. Calculating its correct dimensions, is a story, all by itself. 2mm SPRINGS BARS: Geniune or very good aftermarket Spring Bars for the models we most covet, 1665,1680,1675,16800,16610 will measure: center section: 2mm x 19.7mm* depressable ends: 1.2mm in dia.* extended overall length: 25.25/25.57mm (.994/1.006")* You will, no doubt, see them advertised in all sizes and dimensions, claiming to be what they are not. Use good judgement before making your purchase and avoid dissapointment. There is plenty of good information to be gleaned on this board as to where to acquire them from the many capable and talented members. Please keep in mind, the advertised dimensions are meant to show relationship to an application. These dimensions may seem cut and dry. In reality the spring bars do not have a true 2mm diameter main body, nor do the ends measure 1.2mm. These measurements indicate the bore diameter in which they are to be inserted, therefore, the true diameter of the respective part of the spring bar will (should) measure: ENDS-Diameter: 1.187/1.190mm (.0467/.0468")* MAIN BODY-Diameter: 1.978/1.980mm (.0778/.0780")* NOTE: *These dimensions acquired from 20 sample spring bars* This differential allows for compliance in the bore, just .0005" will make the difference between go and no-go.

Highest i Would see fair is 150 Im 99 procent sure its not gen diamonds when its 200 even The lowest grade diamonds Would be a higher Price Then 200 so 150 highest max The Crown print doesnt look good to me but hard to tell on The pic

Love the backdrop. Where is Alice? Sent from my droptop using telepathy

Me a watch collector honey ? Who do you take me for ! [emoji23][emoji23] Tempus fugit, utere.

Hi RWG, I work exclusively with Italian leather and besides I've got a huge selection of gen leathers from the period 1945- 1990. year! I have no stock with straps, I'm making them only by order, it is the policy of the brand "Manifatture Serioso"! With customers I always consult about all the details that suit them! Dimensions can be as you want .. width, length and thickness too! Method of preparation - classic, gen triple fold system, kampf ... so, we make arrangements on everything! Strap finish is one of my personal touches and there is no agreement ..... I think that is the main motive of unique strap! With suggestions, I try to help as much as I can because I know that there is always a problem buying strap from some photo , usually it differs from the real! There are option of making strap according to your wishes .... you can send me a photo of strap that you want and I make it as much as possible similar to the strap from photo , of course with my personal touch! Prices depending on the selection of leather and quantity of work! There are also "special" collector's gen straps that are more expensive, but that's another story and of course that is on offer too! Generally the whole procedure looks like this: 1 - Pay the agreed amount 2 - We consult about all details connected to the appearance of the strap 3 - Production deadline 14 days from payment 4 - When I finish strap, I send photos so you can see how it looks like, if that's what you want... of course there I count on your honesty gentlemanly code of conduct. Then I'll send it to you.... 5 - Sending strap, the shipment costs are included in straps prices, for all destinations! Please for understanding apropos responding to your mails! I get them a lot and do not have time to answer them right away! Certainly you will receive a response within 24 hours! My mail address: manifatture-serioso@mail.com I hope that you are satisfied with my answer and that can cooperate! With Respect Manifatture Serioso Some of my works:

1665 today

Sent from my droptop using telepathy

It is left by your fellow members in regard to a deal you entered with them. (buying, selling, trading)

My wife confiscated my Tudor Sub and refuses to give it back. Here she is with my beloved Tudor. I think I wore it once...

Once they get into your watch box, all bets are off

+1. He did my 5514, and I would highly recommend him.

Well done! Superb guide :-) Any tips for countersinking the case for proper tube hight?

Ok...I have little to nothing to do with the content of this tutorial, other than finding it useful, and salvaging the files packaged by SSSurfer, resizing them, editing them and reassembling the package here. This has been a much-in-demand tutorial that when AJS left RWG, died with him with no images, and really...marginal utility. The original posting had 203 images or so that amounted to a 40Mb post to download that had to be spread across three posts in order to get all the images in. To make the post more readable, I have done the following: reduced the quality of the images to reduce image download size by 75% removed the similar pictures that I felt didn't really serve much use in order to have the tutorial contained in 2 posts, rather than 3 added in user edits where applicable Hopefully people find it useful...and I thank AJS for putting this together initially. A lot of time and effort went into photographing all the steps, and linking them to the tutorial. I'm sorry if I offended him by removing some of his wine shots, and other misc. picx. Remember...if you find this type of information useful, consider upgrading your membership to a paid subscription, to ensure the life of the board and it's content is here for you in the future. AJOESMITH'S MOTHER OF ALL TUTORIALS - SWAPPING A DG2813 WITH A HIGH BEAT DG4813 Ok finally all done. This is a tutorial of how to install a DG4813 into a noob sub! This is just my method and i do what works for me. This may or may not be the correct way of doing this but im no expert. I'd like to thank the forums mainly RWG and Rgeek as they have provided me with the knowledge to do this. So enjoy! What youll need for the job, notice the nice glass of Red! Of course the watch it self, a Noob Sub, the movement for the swap, a new DG4813 fastbeat movement. Some post it notes, tweezers etc and some lint free paper? You will also need a Rolex caseback tool. EDIT: There is an expensive Bergeon set with a complete set of Rolex dies, but for the most part, the only die you will need is the large 29.5mm one which will fit Subs, Daytonas, Seadwellers, etc. Obviously it won't fit the ladies DJs. If you need to work on the smaller Rollies, you might consider additional chucks or the larger set. The Red wine The Watch - a Noob Factory Sub First step, get the bracelet off, so that we can get access to the case back. Remove the plastic if present (i.e. a new watch). Open the buckle and the divers extension. Here is the bracelet with the spring bar removed. The springbar needs to be pressed and released to release the divers extension. Watch sitting flat and easier to access the caseback in front of the bergeon Rolex case back opening tools. EDIT: You can use generic arms for the tool, but I recommend using the genuine Bergeon 29.5mm chuck as the teeth will not wreck your caseback The red wine, time for a sip Nice The bergeon openers, going to use the biggest one on the far right (29.5mm) Here it is, with the arms attached, watch face down in hand, and the case back opener on top. Apply pressure and turn. Off the back comes where you can remove the rubber seal with tweezers. At thie point, turn the watch over and unscrew the crown and pull out to the time setting position and set the time to 12 oclock, this will help in the hand removal Time for another mouthful of wine...and another. Next to remove the movement, you'll need to unscrew the movement holder screws - 1 here and 1 here With the 2 screws Unscrewed, remove the 2 metal tabs Next to release the stem, here is the stem release button in close up While pressing it GENTLY, use the other hand to pull the stem out by the pulling on the crown, when the stem releases, stop pushing on the stem release button. EDIT: Some including The Zigmeister say to always remove the stem in the winding position, to reduce the chances of throwing the keyless works out of position when putting the stem back in Stem out Turn the watch on its side then quickly and smoothly turn the watch dial side up n a sheet of paper or something clean (e.g. a casing pad) Sometimes the movement doesnt 'drop' and needs a light 'tap'. A few taps on the crystal and it should come out. Lift the watch case away and set it t the side leaving the movement, dial and hands, which you'll need from now on EDIT: Leave the case facing down to avoid getting dust settling on the inside of the case and on the inside of the crystal Lift the movement up and there is the movement holder under it, again place it to the side Some more wine...Another sip! EDIT: SD4K mentioned that to remove the hands, If you adjust the hands to 12h (date-switch-position) before you take em off,you will have less problems with setting the hands in the right position when you put them back on. To remove the hands youll need some post it notes or a Bergeon dial protector, and a hand removal tool. Peel off a post-it, fold it in half and cut to shorten the length, and then cut it in 2 sticky pieces lengthwise. Place the post-its at 3 oclock and 9 oclock position and under the hour hand. Use the hand removal tool to remove the hands, its very difficult to photograph as I only have 2 hands, 1 for the camera and 1 for the tool, so this pic is really just to show you the position, don