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Jamaica Mon!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yup. Here's mine, and then I took them off. They glared too much. So I replaced them with sort of glitzy'ish Rolex 55xx steel hands that I came across And I find that the gilt dial now sets the steel hands a-glow nicely and it's better balanced.

Gmt ii c

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^^^^what CC said. I spent almost 3K building my Yuki and while it is a very nice watch and would be fine if I was going to keep it forever, but I tend to be a serial flipper and I am always looking for the next thing. The trouble with spending this much on a franken is resale is really tough and I hate parting out good watches that are already built. I am looking for a gen 5513 now and at some point will end up selling my Yuki at a huge loss. There seems to be a fine line between cost to build a franken versus just buying a gen. If you can be patient you can find a set up like CC is talking about. There is/was one for sale over on TRF from a very reputable vintage dealer. It is a redial and if I remember was around 5K. Especially if the set up has some hard to find parts like an MKII or III insert, dome plexi, 700 crown and so on. Market is stagnant right now so never hurts to make an offer. You can always sell off the parts you do not use and in the end you have a genuine 5513.

Cool project, but it will be expensive. Gen 5513's with matte dials, late 60's and even into the early 80's Maxi dials have gone up a lot in cost over the last couple of years. A decent example is more like 7K now. Good original examples are in the 10K range. I check multiple sources everyday as I am after a birth year piece. Good collector type pieces are bringing crazy money. Gilt even more. Once in a while I see one with no bracelet and an over-polished case with a service plexi and insert in the 5K range but they usually have other issues like service hands....I did manage to pick up a really nice 1970 1675 yesterday and that took a long time to find the one I wanted. I did a Yuki build and it turned out really nice, Be happy to share some information with you. The case needed some serious modding though. Little too thick from Yuki, but with some good mods it can look very gen like. I used the Yuki dial and hands and an ETA to reduce costs. I was trying to make a 1966 model. The most expensive parts other than the case were the gen 700 crown and tube and the gen MKIII insert. Those inserts are going for $800 and up now if they are in good shape. I had a gen 1966 7206 already from my big crown build but that would be another $1200-1500 for one in decent shape. CWP or ABC watchwerks plexi is a good dome plexi and reasonably priced. Sometimes you see "gen" t-19's for sale, but everyone I trust says they are not NOS gen so I have passed on those. I do not think dbane is taking on any work or I would suggest him for the case mods and build. Not sure who else may be able to help with the case. Miseikped does some really good work. Matt is great for assembly but you would need to find someone else to do the case. Good luck. If you want some pictures of anything specific on the Yuki PM me.

Interesting topic for sure. I have owned and do still own Gen Pams and I have several reps. I'm much more impressed by my reps in terms of value for dollar. But, to each his own. And I love the history of the brand almost as much as the timeless simplicity of the style. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pffffffffffffft, the dial is garbage. Send it to me for "disposal".

This, imho, is the ONLY movement for the watch outside of gen. The Powermatic 80 is a true COSC movement that honestly keeps time as close to a Rolex 3135 or AP 3120 as you're going to get.

If you are easy on the actual designs there are plenty of companies EU wide and china etc that have off the shelf engraved cases that morealess cover most case shapes and brand looks... Another ex member to ask in Germany is T-Crown at Tourby watches DE.... Plus if you google you will be surprised just how many companies do it... as well as other aftermarket mods...like plating, ceramics, DLC etc not just RG etc but also rhodium etc etc

There are several options. First the high beat options that are not correct beat wise. (AP movement is 21000, these are all 28800). 1. ETA 2824-2 Expensive but the best option. 2. Seagull ST 2130 Very good alternative, less than half the price of the 2824. Low beat options 1. ETA 2824 modified to slow beat. 2. ETA 2846 (Slow beat movement, however these are all old movements, and will definitely need a service). 3. Powermatic 80 (Slow beat built by ETA for Tissot) also a great alternative, but pretty much unavailable as a movement, so have to buy a donor watch, which will probably set you back as much as the AP V5 cost. There may be more, these are all that I'm familiar with.