Leaderboard

I just want to advise something based on my experience. Read ALL before you start unassemble your watch to discover you miss something necessary half way... First let me explain what reverse wheels are... They can be found only in automatic watches, and not in all of them (Seiko for instance use a cam&levers system, and also some of our 23j have the Seiko system, like the UN Maxi Marine non chrono), but definitively they are present in all ETA variants like 2824, 2836, 2834, 7750, 7751, 7752 (the gmt one) and 7753... They looks like these: They are responsible to transmit the motion of the rotor to the main spring, and work more or less like a bicycle pinion: when the rotor (your legs for the bicycle) rotates faster than the gears connected to the main spring (faster than the bicycle rear wheel), then the rotor motion is transmitted to the main spring, winding it (then your legs power is transmitted to rear bicycle wheel, increasing your speed). Instead if the gears connected to the main spring rotates faster than the rotor (typically when the watch is on the table quiet or when you manually wind the watch with the crown), the reverse wheel disengage and does NOT transmit the motion to the rotor (like on the bicycle when you are going and stop to move your legs). This is particularly valid for the single direction autowind like the 7750, but can be acceptable also for the bidirectional autowinding system like the 2836 where you have 2x reverse gears. So, what may happen to these very complicated gears? Well, basically just 2 things: 1) they can lack of lubrication, or be lubricated with wrong systems. 2) they can break. The 1st case is the most common one, and has a typical symptom: the manual winding action appear stiff, when you hand wind the watch the rotor tend to spin or really spins (typically when the watch is kept horizontally). The 2nd case (I have an Hublot with this problem) is much more rare and makes instead the autowinding system not to work at all: the rotor just rotate but doesn't charge the main spring. Only solution for this is to replace the reverse gears. Let's concentrate on the most common case. So the hand wind is stiff and you want to fix it. On 2836/2824/2834 it is not complex: you need to open the case back, then you need to remove the rotor unscrewing the big central screw here: then you need to remove the 2 screws that keeps on the autowind bridge (1.2mm screwdriver) and lift the autowind bridge. You recognize the right screws because they are normally black. They are the ones missing from the 2 smaller holes here: After you have removed the autowind bridge, put it upside down on a surface and remove the screw that keeps there the gears (reverse wheels and the other 2 reduction gears). Here you can see a VERY dirty autowind bridge upside down: You should arrive to have all in bits like in this pic where you can see 3x autowind bridge disassembled: Now it is time to properly clean all. For the 2 bridges I normally use a toothbrush with some soapy degreaser to do the first coarse wash, then I put all (gears, bridges and even the screw) in my ultrasonic cleaner loaded with a warm mixture of 50cl of ammonia + 36cl acetone + 14cc oleic acid + enough demineralized water to reach 1 liter and let them be cleaned for around 5 minutes. After this I put them into demineralized water and let them rinse in the water and in the ultrasonic washer for other 3/4 minutes. Finally you need to let everything dry over a lint-free paper (I sometime use 50°C heated oven to make the process quicker. YES YES, I know ETA lubrication charts tells to not clean the reverse wheel... They just want you to buy new ones. I did and they were stiffer than the original asian ones!!!! So now it's time to CORRECTLY lubricate those 2 bastards... There are many formulas and wizard's mixtures advertised here and there as the solution to lubricate the ETA reverse wheels (considering also the 775x movements)... I tried them all, but the only PROPER product I found to do the job is the one that ETA itself developed to lubricate their reverse wheels, and it's named "LUBETA v105" (http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Lubeta_V105). It is not that cheap and I found few places that sells small amount of them. My source is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400720621082 Do not mess up with the V106 which is for something else (http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Lubeta_V106) and that can be substituted safely with a tiny amount of HP1300. Wet well the reverse gears with this V105 product (sometimes I even immerse the reverse gears in the solution) and then let the reverse gears to dry completely over a surface (better a clean metallic one: don't use something that can absorb it or that could be melted by the V105 thinner). Then follow this chart to reassembly everything, and you will find out that the hand wind will be smooth like a brand new gen ETA (regardless it's an asian or eta movement): One last tip: when you are mounting back the rotor, do NOT tight fully the central screw: as soon as it start to get tight, make the rotor to rotate: sometimes it doesn't engage properly with the wheels of the autowind bridge, and if you tighten it in that state you can bend the wheels and make a mess... Finally: 775x is similar, but it is MUCH more difficult to unassemble and reassemble because there are a lot of bits to align to fit the autowind bridge, so I don't suggest anyone to try if it is not really confident to work on watch movements...). See here on the other RWG -> http://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?showtopic=1039 Ah, very last thing: while on the 2836/2824/2834 you can fit gen ETA spare parts, with 775x you can't (tried today with the mentioned Hublot): it seems that it fits, but the reverse gear pinions are 0.2mm for the asian ad 0.38mm for the ETA/Valjoux and even if you can then reassemble everything apparently well, then the rotor doesn't engage the reverse wheel properly... Cheers, GenTLe

Rolli's FGD - 040 Marina Dial Artwork in Swiss Oem Quality: here we introduce a more than rare artwork 040 Marina dial in swiss oem quality and standard. made by a high grade oem swiss dial maker, made in switzerland. the oem standard and oem rules say, only to use high end materials and high grade machines, made in switzerland. materials only from swiss companies which also are developer for the well know products for the watch making, also the machines, cnc machines from almac swiss, absolutely fast runner with 5 independent spindles and perfect for recessed indices milling and for all dial applications, also for movement parts etc. all watch brands with in house production factory work with this special swiss almac cnc machine. all our dials were made on this machine. all the swiss oem dial maker have an expensive high grade machine park and be guided by ingineure. basic material is finest brass alloy , punched to a round plate with 1,0 mm and welded the unitas 6497 feet. indices cnc machine milled, processed the surface to a thickness of 0,97 mm. and then on the surface the fine glass beads blasting, after the cleaning process and the black galvanic process. for the final finish was applied the zapon varnish with satin sheen finsih. now the dials have a final thickness of 1,0 mm. note: all indices numerals shape have the typical pre vendome features, see the lower sharp corner in the contour on the 6, and the preV typical numerals shapes. PreV Style indices milling: all indices numerals contours were pre-milled with a 0.1 mm milling cutter, so that the sharp corners in 6 could be made, after with a 0,4 mm milling cutter were milled the inner rest. it was only possible with a special swiss almac cnc machine, and necessary a special pre working and programming on the cad program. a very elaborate cnc machine procedure. note: all PreV and all preA and 040 dials have this special numerals feature on the shape contours. now the dials went to swiss rc tritec for our special tritium look. last year we developed a tritium simulated high grade super luminova color, 10 years burned out look. rc tritec switzerland analyzed this color and produced it in triple high grade-A super luminova a special color for us. i could buy the original old stock tritium resin varnish UV820 from rc tritec, which was still in stock from 1993 and i could buy the rest stock. the tritium high glossy resin varnish uv820 is the original which was used for all tritium mixes , and as protection against the radioactivity. all indices are filled with this mixture by swiss rctritec employee by hand with the stylograph in the typical recessed preV style filling. the preV fgd hands are special made for us including the small second hand including a longer second hand tube, are also filled by rc tritec with a non matched high grade-A tritium simulated super luminova. after this process the dials went to the swiss printer, for the print steel cliché, and for the final lettering print, also with swiss berlac paint in high glossy peal white. this was a small introduction to the oem manufacture, i already studied for years all these single procedures and steps and could train and instruct the dial maker for the important details, also i trained the engineer and graphic designer for the vector graphic on auto cad for all the important sensible details. we had a genuine dial and high resolution scan all the time as basic for the profuction. For more Details please send a PM regards Rolli

What I always say to folks contemplating a purchase, if you are not sure about what you are buying, then research, research, research. I'm not a Heuer expert, but I know how to find "stuff" . I took the OP's title "Heuer Chronograph Bicompax 7734" pasted it into Google , and instantly there were all sorts of information, including lots and lots of images of this and similar Heuer chronographs. It took about 5 minutes total to determine that the hands didn't match anything that Heuer ever put on these models. So, guys, let the internet be your friend. Use the vast knowledge base lurking on the internet to help you make wise decisions. Had the OP done this before buying, he would have seen quickly that something wasn't right with this watch. Nightwatch, what is so nice about this forum, is that people will take that 5-10 minutes to help others who are seeking answers. And for the most part, the answers are accurate and pertinent which makes them so much more relevant.

164o on ss Inviato dal mio SM-N920C utilizzando Tapatalk

Knowledge on rwg never stops to amaze, deeply impressed once again.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My MBW was a good, solid watch for many years and with only a couple small upgrades it looked pretty good.

ugh, sell it to me.... please? with sugar on top?

Afaik, it should take 20mm buckle( i mean the leather strap) so it's 28 by 20 mm, regular length is 115/75.

Just finish assembly Gen 1520 movement Gen T19 Gen SL hands Gen insert Gen 93150 bracelet HR modified case HR dial Unknown bezel assembly Unknown long coronet crown Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does a 5517 count... 369 gilt dial -no longer in the fold